| barrhavencobra | -- 09-13-2015 @ 1:25 PM |
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I think is is lailey a basic question and apologixpze if so, but am frustrated. I have a 1947 super deluxe, bought last fall was not running though turns over fine etc. I have changed points, today tried to fire here up and nothing. Started to look at the key and ignition, from what I can gather it does nothing. It appears that there should be a screw or something on the bottom, it is missing - I need to fix that - but I have used a screw driver to "lock" in the key set, but as it turns it appears that nothing turns or changes - I look inside the cylinder and there appears that something should be shifted by the bottom of the key cylinder ... Anyway can anyone help nd explain what the key cylinder shoud do? Thanks in advance. Jim
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| cliftford | -- 09-14-2015 @ 5:33 AM |
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This one is hard to diagnose online. It sounds like a defective switch but there may be other issues. This message was edited by cliftford on 9-14-15 @ 5:38 AM
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| len47merc | -- 09-14-2015 @ 8:02 AM |
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Agree with cliftford. Questions - does the key (which is not the ignition switch btw), when rotated clockwise, lock the steering wheel and ignition toggle switch? When attempting to start the car are you able to flip the ignition toggle switch up to the 'on' position? Have you checked for and confirmed you have a strong spark? Are you getting fuel to the carburetor? To answer your question, all the key cylinder does is lock the steering wheel and ignition toggle switch. No electrical impact on starting the car, only mechanical in locking the switch & wheel. Steve
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| TomO | -- 09-14-2015 @ 8:04 AM |
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Jim, A photo is worth many words in this case. Most 47s had the key and switch on the steering column. The key unlocked the steering column and the switch. In order to start these cars, you would turn the key to unlock the steering column and the switch and then flip the lever on the switch to power the ignition and gauges. The later 47's and the 48's had the ignition switch on the instrument panel and it was turned one way to power the ignition and the other way to power only the accessories. Tom
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| barrhavencobra | -- 09-14-2015 @ 4:34 PM |
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Thanks for the comments, it helps. Steering is not locked and when I flip up the stitch gauges etc work. I am not looking for a spark (again), but great to eliminate one problem. Jim
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| len47merc | -- 09-15-2015 @ 4:22 AM |
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I recall barrhavencobra's '47 being an earlier model from a photo he posted sometime earlier this year as well as general comments made in previous postings. The 3 position ignition switch was incorporated in late October of '47. Sounds like from barrhavencobra's last comments he has the earlier model of switch - ? Just curious if bhc rotates the keylock clockwise does it lock the steering wheel and ignition lever? In my advancing age perhaps my memory is off and bhc's SD has the later switch, in which case I would have to defer to TomO's comments. Steve
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| TomO | -- 09-15-2015 @ 7:31 AM |
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Steve your memory is fine. I guess the confusion in my mind is that Jim did not describe his problem in terms that I am used to, so I described both locks. Here is a drawing of the 41-47 lock. I still don't understand what Jim's problem is. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 09-15-2015 @ 11:52 AM |
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Me either. Steve
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| cliftford | -- 09-15-2015 @ 12:25 PM |
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What I get from this is that the car will not start and run. You need to completely trouble shoot the fuel, electrical and ignition systems. Look up some of the past posts on this subject. If you feel you don't have the expertise to do this,find someone with experience with cars from the 40s. This message was edited by cliftford on 9-15-15 @ 12:37 PM
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| barrhavencobra | -- 09-15-2015 @ 4:57 PM |
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Thanks for all the replies. Sorry my problem statement was not clear. The picture provided is exactly by ignition switch. My concern was that the key turns around and the whole "ignition bolt - key and cylinder" pull out of column and I see inside. My engine is not running and I am trying to determine what the issue may be, by eliminating different possibilities. I gather that the key offers no issues with spark, so I can elimate that, I have gas etc, chasing down spark now. Thanks Jim
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| supereal | -- 09-15-2015 @ 8:00 PM |
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If you have the early (pre October) 47 with both a key and a switch lever, and no power to the coil when the switch is on the up position, it is likely the switch contacts are worn. The base and movable "brush" are readily available and not expensive. They are accessed by removing the tin cover held on with a couple of screws. Be sure you have power to the switch, and power at the resistor on the firewall, and from the resistor to the coil when the switch is on. If you have power into the resistor, but none out, the resistor is bad.
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| supereal | -- 09-15-2015 @ 8:01 PM |
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If you have the early (pre October) 47 with both a key and a switch lever, and no power to the coil when the switch is on the up position, it is likely the switch contacts are worn. The base and movable "brush" are readily available and not expensive. They are accessed by removing the tin cover held on with a couple of screws. Be sure you have power to the switch, and power at the resistor on the firewall, and from the resistor to the coil when the switch is on. If you have power into the resistor, but none out, the resistor is bad.
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| TomO | -- 09-16-2015 @ 7:43 AM |
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There are 3 terminals on the switch,battery, coil and gauges. When you have the switch in the "ON" position voltage from the battery terminal goes to both the coil and gauges. Check for 3-6 volts at the coil resister mounted on the circuit breaker board behind the instrument panel. One side of the resister should read battery voltage and the other side should fluctuat as the points open and close. Tom
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