| fordv8j | -- 09-02-2015 @ 9:14 AM |
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OUR 38 COUPE HAD BAD CLUTCH CHATTER..CHECKED TRANSMISSION AND MOTOR MOUNTS..BOLTS WERE ALL TIGHT..THESE ARE SHOULDER BOLTS THAT TIGHTEN AGAINST THE MOUNT..THE LOWER BUSHINGS WERE LOOSE..TOOK METAL WASHER LOOSE FROM RUBBER..INSTALLED A HARD RUBBER WASHER 3/16'' THICK BETWEEN THEM..DID THIS ON ALL FOUR MOUNTS..REINSTALLED AND TIGHTENED..THIS ELIMINATED 90%OF MY CHATTER...NEW LOWER BUSHINGS WOULD PROBABLY DO THE SAME.....MACS HAS THEM LISTED..B-6039-A
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| Old Henry | -- 09-02-2015 @ 3:06 PM |
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Lower case font is easier to read rather than ALL CAPS.
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| Drbrown | -- 09-02-2015 @ 10:07 PM |
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Steele Rubber Products is another source for engine mounts. Full set front and rear for my '47 with bolts washers was about $100. Delivery was prompt.
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| JM | -- 09-03-2015 @ 4:26 AM |
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Having good rubber motor mounts of the proper thickness is essential for engine/transmission stability. Typing in all caps is also considered as SHOUTING!! John
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| supereal | -- 09-03-2015 @ 2:51 PM |
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The early Fords used a set of the rubber "donut" mounts on both ends of the engine/transmission assembly. They are often found assembled incorrectly. Refer to a reliable diagram for the correct placement of nut, Washer, large rubber donut, and cup with rim facing up. The special bolt is placed from below, with the small rubber on the bolt first before putting thru the frame hole. Don't add washers or other parts to the mounts. Tighten them until they just start to bulge, then secure the nut with a cotter pin. Recheck the tension after they have been run awhile, then retighten if needed. Over time, the rubber shrinks, or gets softened by oil. When you have the mount out of the vehicle, carefully check the hole in the frame for cracks or other damage caused by years of movement of the old mount, and repair if necessary.
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