| jehn | -- 08-18-2015 @ 8:32 AM |
|
Any body out there who has used "modern" water pumps from MAC`s? Do they have twisted impeller blades and good quality?
|
|
| RAK402 | -- 08-18-2015 @ 11:03 AM |
|
I just installed a pair in my 40. I have only run it up in the driveway and driven it around the block twice, so I don't know how they will be in terms of keeping the engine cool. The fit and finish seem nice and consistent with that of the pumps that were on the car (originals that had probably been rebuilt a million times). I was able to run it for about a half an hour in the driveway (at idle) without it overheating, which is a first for my car). I will report back when I really start driving it around in the hot weather.
|
|
| jehn | -- 08-19-2015 @ 12:56 PM |
|
Let tell us later about your pumps. I did a good deal today with a pump set from Bob Drake. I hope they will be good with their twisted impeller blades.
|
|
| Old Henry | -- 08-19-2015 @ 5:18 PM |
|
I'm not sure what you mean by "twisted" impeller blades. If you mean as I've drawn in attached, those are the modern style same as I got from C&G and work fine after 65,000 miles of driving for me.
|
|
| Old Henry | -- 08-19-2015 @ 5:35 PM |
|
Another picture.
|
|
| jehn | -- 08-20-2015 @ 8:34 AM |
|
I mean if MAC`s pumps have twisted impeller blades like Bob Drake´s pumps. You can see what I mean in Bobs catalog or website. Twisted impeller blades make a better water flow than the stock straight blades.
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-20-2015 @ 9:47 AM |
|
Did you try asking Mac's? Dennis Carpenter and Bob Drake both describe all features of the pumps that they are selling. Tom
|
|
| Old Henry | -- 08-20-2015 @ 11:22 AM |
|
I see what you mean. Drake's impeller is definitely different than what I got from C&G. (Screen Shot of Drake's attached.) Although I don't know, I would expect Mac's to be like C&G's, not Drake's. As TomO said, you might learn something by calling Mac's. And, then again, maybe not.
|
|
| jehn | -- 08-24-2015 @ 12:21 AM |
|
Thank you guys, I think I have got the answer about the twisted impellers. Those impellers seems to bee just on the pumps from Bob Drake.
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-24-2015 @ 7:53 AM |
|
The pumps that I received from Dennis Carpenter have the same impeller design as Drake's. The impellers on Speedway Motors pumps appear to be different in their ad. I don't know how much effect the impeller design has on overheating. I went to Speedway's pumps in the 1990s and saw no change in my overheating problem, then I tried Skips pumps with the same result. I used a mild acid solution to clean my block and had the radiator cleaned again, to solve my problem of overheating while idling. I am putting on Carpenter's pumps when I change my anti-freeze this fall, because Skips pumps are throwing oil all over my engine compartment. Tom
|
|
| jehn | -- 08-24-2015 @ 2:16 PM |
|
Thanks for that information TomO. I think it is best to take every chance to counteract overheating.
|
|
| len47merc | -- 08-24-2015 @ 5:49 PM |
|
Tom/All - used Speedway's pumps, planned as an interim step while rebuilding the originals, on my '47 at the start of summer last year. In 95+ degree heat here in central NC both last summer and this (when I took it out only for testing - couldn't stand the heat otherwise), using a calibrated Fluke meter and thermocouple, the car/59AB maintained 180-190 degrees at idle through 30 minutes at ~55-60 mph actual (3.78 rear btw - 2,500 rpm) and back down through a 15 minute idle. Only if the engine was pushed up to ~3,000 rpm (~65 mph) would it rise above 190 and never saw 200, though for the tests I never ran the car constantly for more than 10 minutes above my normal 60 mph actual & planned max cruising speed. As I never intend to or actually do run the car other than for these tests above ~60 mph/2,500 rpm actual I have been pleased with the Speedway product and likely will stand pat on them now (versus reinstalling the now rebuilt originals) until necessary. Comfortable enough to drive the car round trip from here to Gettysburg next year in August. EDIT: Fall/winter/spring - never have seen 180 exceeded at idle or other under-load rpms. Fundamentally the 'current' Speedways perform well at idle throughout normal operating range for me - for what it's worth. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 8-24-15 @ 6:18 PM
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-25-2015 @ 7:22 AM |
|
I believe that the impeller design on the original pumps and the ones with the "new" design will both work well in a clean system and none of them will cure a problem in a clogged system. The radiator needs to be clean and if you have it recored, insist on a core that has the same number of fins per inch as the original and that the fins are louvered to direct more air to the tubes. Aluminum radiators do not dissipate heat as well as the copper tube radiators with copper fins. Tom
|
|
| supereal | -- 08-28-2015 @ 8:56 PM |
|
Amen, Tom. The main effect of the cirved pump rotor vanes is a reduction in cavitation which smooths the flow a bit. Considering spending $500 or more on a new or rebuilt radiator isn't welcomed by most owners, but is usually the only permanent cure to overheating, and pays off in being able to trust your vehicle. Many years ago, when I worked for a Ford dealer, we had a two man radiator shop that was kept very busy.
|
|
| nelsonford | -- 08-29-2015 @ 6:55 AM |
|
TomO, how long did you use the pumps...I had mine for over 10 years and they are still okay but haven't put many miles on them. Jeff
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 08-29-2015 @ 8:26 AM |
|
I've use the pumps rebuilt by Fryer's and have excellent results with them. As others have said the rest of the cooling system must be clean. Pumps can't push water trough a plugged radiator.
|
|
| MGG | -- 08-29-2015 @ 6:17 PM |
|
I try to keep the outside of the radiator clean also by occasionally using compressed air to blow the dirt and dust off of the fins and tubes. I blow from the engine side to the front. I do not know how much it does but I think it helps give the radiator its best shot at doing its job.
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-01-2015 @ 11:07 AM |
|
Be careful using compressed air to blow out the radiator. The efficiency of the unit depends heavily on the amount of contact between the tubes and the fins. Age and vibration tend to loosen this contact, and a strong air blast may hasten the problem.
|
|
| TomO | -- 09-02-2015 @ 7:39 AM |
|
I spray the radiator with Simple Green, both in the engine compartment and the front. I let it work for a few minutes and then flush the soap out from the engine side of the radiator. I do not use a strong stream, just a gentle shower. Tom
|
|
| fenbach | -- 09-07-2015 @ 5:02 PM |
|
tom, I had to chuckle. I had a '36 pump that skip haney rebuilt shoot a bit of grease when I told him, he said, "no way." I had him rebuild a 3rd pump, and it works fine. in fairness, I must say, skip's rebuilds pump a boat-load of coolant. but what difference could it make. flatheads ran fine back in the day with standard pumps. I think a clean radiator [and block] is more important. which reminds me, I put prestone radiator cleaner in my system only to have the drain cocks and pump gaskets leak. fortunately, a jar of barsleaks took care of it.
|
|
| RAK402 | -- 05-22-2016 @ 8:06 PM |
|
I finally have my car running again (long story-replaced the entire fuel system, coil, brakes, etc.). I have started to make short trips locally. The car seems to run a bit cooler with the new pumps, but the weather is still mild. I will post more when I have more time on it and better information.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=8879 |