| rmetzg | -- 07-21-2015 @ 7:01 PM |
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Looking to find the short in my electrical system on my 1935 coupe - I keep blowing 20-amp fuses! The wiring schematic makes it pretty clear that most of the possible offenders go through the 3-position wiring switch in the middle of the steering column (okay, technically, it's a 4-position switch if you include "Off"). Seems like a good way to start isolating things is by unhooking everything at these terminals, put in a new fuse, and then start hooking them up one-by-one until the fuse blows. Agreed? My first issue, though, is that I'm struggling to pull the center switch assembly from the steering wheel. Is there a recommended method? I don't want to damage the original (which it is). Thanks!
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| rmetzg | -- 07-22-2015 @ 8:55 AM |
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For what it's worth, here is the part I'm trying to remove. Any helpful hints?
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| Kens 36 | -- 07-22-2015 @ 11:27 AM |
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rmetzg, The switch assembly is located at the BOTTOM of the steering column, under the hood. It looks like a cylindrical metal box. It is held on by a metal bail. Snap off the bail and you can pull the switch down to remove it. Then twist the two halves apart and you can see how the switch is constructed and where the wires attach. The switch on the steering column is actually a rod that extends down the column to rotate the switch. Ken
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| TomO | -- 07-23-2015 @ 7:24 AM |
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I would just clean the switch and then if that didn't work, disconnect the light wires at the bullet connectors to isolate the short. If that doesn't isolate the problem then I would disconnect the wires at the switch. Tom
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| 1933 | -- 07-26-2015 @ 5:32 PM |
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I would first check to be sure if the short is in the lighting circuit. Does the fuse only blow when you turn on the Lights? Do only certain positions on the light switch blow fuses? We need more info.
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| rmetzg | -- 07-31-2015 @ 9:26 AM |
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UPDATE: From the fuse block itself, I was able to determine that the short was happening on the side of the fuse that goes to the lighting circuits. I pulled the lighting assembly containing the spider, found it to have some oil in it, but not a lot, cleaned it with brake fluid, and replaced it. No change in the result. Pulled all of the light bulbs themselves, but still see a short, which indicates to me that the short occurs somewhere between the spider and the bulbs. My biggest fear. So, I tried the only only device I could think of that remained- the brake light switch mounted under the frame. Lo and behold, when I removed it, the system short went away. I tested the switch using a meter and found it to be unreliable. It failed after I manually exercised it a few times (pic attached). I have a new switch on order from Mac's. Will clean up the wiring around it a bit, as it was showing some wear (see pic in next post). We'll see if this fixes it!
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| rmetzg | -- 07-31-2015 @ 9:27 AM |
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Pic of the wiring for the brake switch - some exposed metal here may have been causing the short.
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| trjford8 | -- 08-03-2015 @ 12:50 PM |
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Do all the wires in the car look like the ones on the brake switch? If you have insulation falling off wires and the harness is old you have a potential fire on your hands. For a few dollars you can put in all new wiring and be safe. It appears to be long overdue.
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| rmetzg | -- 08-04-2015 @ 10:16 AM |
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Replacing the brake light switch seems to have done the trick - no more short in the system, and I have brake lights and headlights up and running. Two questions regarding the spider assembly: 1) I tried several orientations of the pieces that go together to make the spider and wiring assembly work. Each time, the position of the switch on the steering wheel ends up like this, from left-to-right. Lo-Beam, High-Beam, Off, Parking Lights. Is that the correct sequence? I note that straight up, with the V8 symbol exactly right, is the OFF position, which seems intuitive to me (see pic attached). Said differently, from the position in the picture, rotating one position clockwise is for parking lights, and rotating counter-clock-wise gives Hi-Beam and then Lo-Beam. Correct configuration? 2) The center switch now drags when I turn the wheel, which turns the lights on and off while I drive. I assume this will be corrected when I install the new spider spring I have on order from Mac's. I assume the old one is collapsed a little. Alan
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| rmetzg | -- 08-04-2015 @ 10:21 AM |
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trjford8 - I actually have considered replacing the wiring throughout. Suggestions? Buying the various pre-assembled harnesses with the original cloth wire type looks to be pretty expensive from every avenue I can find. Everything seems to a lot more then the "few dollars" you mention. I could replace it with modern stuff, but I'd like to keep it as close to original as I can.
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| Kens 36 | -- 08-04-2015 @ 11:40 AM |
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Alan, The orientation of your light switch is correct. New wires are not cheap, but they are certainly less expensive than a fire, which is a distinct possibility with ancient frayed wires. Several vendors make very nice wiring harnesses that use modern materials but appear close to the original look. For under $600 you can buy a complete set of wires from one of the best (possibly the most expensive) vendors, Rhode Island Wiring Service. Tyree Harris is another favored vendor who has excellent wiring harnesses and an excellent reputation. Tom's comment on cost is the relative cost to the value of your car and the prevention of a disaster. Ken
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| 1933 | -- 08-04-2015 @ 5:38 PM |
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Replace the lighting wiring circuit. Not a hard job. Old wiring is like a hidden dragon . One sunday afternoon and the job is done. You can relax when you get caught in a rainstorm and nothing shorts out. Alan
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