| Grant | -- 07-09-2015 @ 3:29 PM |
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Our '36 has a charging system which I believe came from the same '39 parts car that provided its transmission and banjo steering wheel. In the opinion of another EFV8 Club member, the C51A-10505 regulator from that '39 is not working properly and should be replaced. As a test, can I safely install a 1951 regulator known to be in good working order, without causing damage to other electrical system components like the generator or the coil or the condenser, etc.? Does a C51A-10505 regulator from a '39 function in the same manner as a six volt '51 regulator? The 1949 1950 1951 Shop Manual seems to be saying that design changes to the regulators were made in 1949 and again in 1950. Are the 1939 and 1951 versions sufficiently similar to be interchangeable?
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-09-2015 @ 4:34 PM |
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Without doubt, a 6 volt voltage regulator in good working order doesn't care what year 6v Ford it is mounted on, nor does it matter if the generator is of a 2 or 3 brush variety, or the size and manufacturer of the battery. What does matter is that it is adjusted correctly to the needs of the system it is installed in, an operation that can be a puzzlement to a modern auto technician. Alan
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| cliftford | -- 07-09-2015 @ 9:09 PM |
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On my '48 car I have the early style generator with a 48 and up regulator,off a truck, and it works fine. In both pre 49 and 49 and up systems, they are 6 volt, positive ground, and have internaly grounded gen fields.
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| Grant | -- 07-11-2015 @ 8:07 AM |
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Thanks for the info. I installed the 1951 regulator after cleaning all connections, including grounds to the firewall. The ammeter needle is still deflecting all the way to the top of the gauge, and totally disappears when the throttle rod is pulled out (+-1500 rpm??), but a voltmeter test at the battery posts with the engine running shows only 6.4 volts. My concern was that the battery might be over-charging. Any thoughts on what might be going on here? Could the generator possibly need new brushes?
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-11-2015 @ 10:35 AM |
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Grant, Here's a thought... Sounds like your generator is charging, and your regulator is working, but the charge is not making it back to the battery due to high resistance, which could be caused by a poor battery connection. This did happen to me once, driving along at night, engine started to sputter, had to turn off the headlights to stay running, but soon the engine died and battery charge had apparently dwindled to the point that it wouldn't crank. Turned out my battery ground strap had lost conductivity at the connector. Alan
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| Grant | -- 07-11-2015 @ 5:41 PM |
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Thanks, Alan. Great idea. I made every connection I could find under the hood nice and shiny with sandpaper and a wire brush, but it didn't occur to me that the battery cable grounded to the chassis ought to be cleaned up too. Next time I get a chance to work on the car, that will be done.
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-11-2015 @ 7:21 PM |
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Grant, my issue wasn't just the connection, it was the strap itself. Hard to believe, I know, but the battery acid fumes had eaten away the braided strap from the inside out at the lead battery connector. Alan
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| TomO | -- 07-14-2015 @ 6:18 PM |
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Grant, Make sure that the voltage regulator is grounded and that the generator has good contact with the motor. Try connecting a jumper wire between the generator case and the voltage regulator case. To test the output voltage of the generator, measure the voltage at the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator. Tom
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