| RAK402 | -- 07-08-2015 @ 9:40 PM |
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I have a 1940 Ford Sedan that I am attempting to do a brake job on. The rear hubs/drums have not been removed for approximately 25 years. I am using a KR Wilson (repro) hub puller with no success. I am concerned that I am putting too much force on the puller and will either damage it or the end of the axle. I have hit the end of the puller nut with a hammer (per the instructions). Also, I have been unable to find the correct torque specs. for the axle nuts. I would be extremely grateful for any advice. Thank you all in advance!
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-08-2015 @ 10:50 PM |
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First, check to see if there are safety tabs on the backing plate. These are not a stock Ford accessory, but are often installed to prevent loss of a wheel should an axle break while driving, which could cause great damage and loss of life. Simply held on with bolts, easily removed. The hub poller you have is the best money can buy. No matter how long a drum has been on, the KRW can break it free. Don't be afraid to crank that puller bolt down, it can take all you got. Use a cheater bar, or a BFH on the wrench, it will pop for you. Alan
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-09-2015 @ 4:59 AM |
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Before trying to remove the hubs full retract the brake shoes with the upper cams. After removing the attachment nut and cotter pin, pry off the hardened steel washers under the nuts and use a pick to remove the smashed seal under the washers. Then try to use the puller. Sometimes leaving the pressure on over night has results.
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| cliftford | -- 07-09-2015 @ 5:19 AM |
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Be aware that this can be dangerous. Once when doing this I had one pop loose and fly across the shop. If anyone had been in front of it they would have been injured.
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| len47merc | -- 07-09-2015 @ 5:19 AM |
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Agree with all Alan's and 40coupe's comments and add to Alan's comments regarding the amount of torque potentially necessary to free the hub. Were it not for a quite seasoned owner of several 40's era Fords who loaned me his original puller, supervised the process and advised me, I'd never have put the ummppphhh on the bolt that it ultimately took to break the apparently never-been-removed-before hub. When it did break free it made such a loud noise I was visibly shaken and thought surely the axle had split, both of which greatly amused my 86 year old mentor. It took much, much more pressure than I would have thought necessary on my own. Btw - used a 1/2" breaker bar & impact socket, not a ratchet/std socket or wrench. Steve
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| RAK402 | -- 07-09-2015 @ 6:34 PM |
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I want to thank all of you for your replies! I went back out this morning, put the socket on the 24" bar, and turned it until I could no longer move the wrench with my arms. I then stood on the end of the handle, two or three times. On the last attempt, there was a dull "pop," and the socket and handle fell to the ground. At first I was not sure that I had not broken something, but the hub was free, exactly as you all said it would happen. I took the old shoes out, removed the cylinder, cleaned everything up, then installed a new cylinder ans shoes. I checked the large grease seal, added more grease to the bearing and re-installed the hub/drum. Tomorrow I will attempt to repeat this on the left side. Thank you all again!
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| ford38v8 | -- 07-09-2015 @ 10:42 PM |
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That's great. We should also have told you to make sure that the hub and taper are both clean, rust free, dry, and without burrs. Inspect the condition of the key and keyway, and look closely at the inboard end of the keyway for any sign of cracking. The keyway presents a weak spot at that location, and if even the smallest crack is visible, the axle will fail at a most inconvenient time in your life. On reassembly, use a felt pen to mark the end of the axle to indicate the orientation of the cotter key hole. Then use your cheater bar to crank the nut up good and tight, without cranking past your last opportunity to access the cotter hole. Alan
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| 42wagon | -- 07-10-2015 @ 3:02 AM |
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RAK402 You mentioned the magic word -Grease- without saying which type you used. Those bearings must be lubricated with a long fiber grease made especially for roller bearings. If you use the ordinary grease used for lubricating the chassis those bearings and or their races will fail in a relatively short time. 42 Wagon
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| len47merc | -- 07-10-2015 @ 6:15 AM |
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42wagon/Alan/cliftford/40 Coupe/all - I have some Texaco long fiber grease my Dad gave me when I was 28 years old (I'm now 59). God knows when he bought it but likely was before the Man Who Wears the Star joined the company. I believe his original application was on very heavy equipment (bowling ball sized ball bearings underneath huge radar antennas) when he was in the Air Force in the 50's & 60's. Do you or others have recommendations you've positive results and experience with for this grease in the now modern day? When addressing this area on my '47 earlier, my research on what was referenced as 'LUBRICANT M-4664' in the Ford 1942-1948 MERCURY SHOP MANUAL Service Handbook in the Ford Passenger Car Lubrication and Maintenance Chart did not produce a long-fiber grease equivalent. I've found other areas of this chart that needed updating though so am trying to learn something here. Note the chart indicates the M-4664 is supposed to be applied 'sparingly with a hand gun' every 10,000 miles. Long fiber greases I have experience could not be applied with any of the manual or pneumatic grease guns I own as these greases are too viscous. Greatly appreciate any input here - may have to go back and redo the rear bearing lubrication on my driver. Thanks in advance - EDIT - Apologies for digressing somewhat from the Hub Puller discussion. Perhaps RAK402 will get some benefit here as well. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 7-10-15 @ 12:28 PM
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| RAK402 | -- 07-10-2015 @ 5:44 PM |
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Steve, No apologies necessary, sir. The grease discussion is extremely relevant and I appreciate your comments as well as 42wagon's comments on grease. I had used long fiber grease the last time that I did this (many moons ago). That particular tub of grease became contaminated, as the plastic lid disintegrated and dirt entered the tub. It looks like I will be attempting to locate another tub of long fiber grease and repacking that rear bearing in the very near future. I did, by the way, remove the left drum this afternoon (using the repro KRWilson puller) with no difficulty.
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| 42wagon | -- 07-10-2015 @ 5:48 PM |
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Len The modern equivalent grease is Sta-Lube Heavy Duty Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. It has a part number SL3131 and is sold by NAPA Auto Parts. 42 Wagon
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| len47merc | -- 07-10-2015 @ 6:34 PM |
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Thanks 42 Wagon - is this what you would recommend as well? NAPA is the closest parts shop to me so this is good - appears this is a CRC 'short fiber' grease, not 'long'. Thoughts? Steve
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| 42wagon | -- 07-11-2015 @ 3:26 AM |
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Steve I make no recommendation except to say that I am using it and whether the fiber is long or short, it is way better than ordinary chassis grease that appears to have no fiber. The recommendation came from an old head who was or is in the car rebuilding business and who used to contribute to this forum regularly although I haven't seen anything from him in awhile. 42
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| len47merc | -- 07-11-2015 @ 3:51 AM |
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Thanks 42 - that's all I was looking for, positive results and experiences with the grease. Will pick some up soon. Thanks again - Steve
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