| rmetzg | -- 06-29-2015 @ 10:57 AM |
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Hello to all. I'm a new member here but have enjoyed reading so many of the posts as I get ready to start up my 1935 Model 48 5-window coupe, with original Flathead V-8. I inherited this car from my father (all-original, third-owner, it has all of the options, great shape and only 14,000 miles on the odometer - it's been garaged it's whole life). The car has sat for five years with little attention and has not been started in that time. It used to run and start just fine. I changed the oil and put in 4 quarts of Castrol 20W50 and a little Marvel Mystery Oil (no oil filter option). Bought a new 6V battery, and cleaned and gapped the plugs to 0.025". Drained the coolant - it came out green with no rust in the mix, and I have replaced this temporarily with a weak vinegar and water mix, which I will replace with Prestone 50/50 after running it for 15 minutes or so. Finally, I siphoned the gas tank and got about a quart of nasty-colored varnish before it came up dry. No rust in the mix. When removing the air cleaner, I found that the bottom bowl was full of a light oily substance, which I think might be gas but had very little odor. Not sure what this could be other than old gasoline, but how did it get there and survive 5 years of evaporation? The carb below it is bone dry. I intend to tube up a small bucket of unleaded gasoline directly to the fuel pump and go for a start soon. I'm curious from those more experienced than I am -- am I missing anything? Thanks for your comments. Alan
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| VT/JeffH | -- 06-29-2015 @ 11:38 AM |
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Hi Alan, Welcome to the V8 Club Forums! I'm a rookie at old Flatheads, but that won't stop me from making a couple of comments... Your car is very nice looking from the one photo. A very desirable model! Your plan sounds good to me. Not sure what you're referring to on the air-cleaner, and bottom bowl. But those air filter screens are supposed to be soaked in engine oil to assist filtering. Could you be seeing engine oil that's been exposed to air for five+ years? That would have meant that someone serviced the air-filter correctly, maybe. Make sure you hook the battery up correctly. Originally the car would have had POSITIVE going to ground, opposite modern vehicles. If you have trouble cranking, go thru the grounding system and clean to bare metal all contacts. Grounding on 6v systems is pretty important. Since we're playing with gasoline, you might consider doing this outdoors, with a fire extinguisher a short distance away from where you're working. You may still have rusty sides to the tank, considering you only got a quart of gunk out. So, when you decide to get the fuel tank involved, you might unhook the line between pump and carb, and run fuel from the tank, thru the pump, into a catch can for maybe a gallon or so to check the quality of fuel coming out of the pump. You can crank the car with the switch off to run the pump, I believe. A temporary fuel filter installed between the tank and fuel pump may be a good idea. Oh, here's a good one that is an issue on my '36. When it all gets sorted out and running, be careful about having a full-ish fuel tank and taking right hand turns. Fuel is known to slosh out the filler and get all over the fender. Not good for paint. Unless necessary I usually keep my tank about 1/2 full for this reason. There's a downside to this too, because the sides of the tank are not submerged, and therefore more likely to rust. If it were me I wouldn't trust the tires a whole lot. They look like bias ply, which would be original style. My opinion on them is it's not the miles but the age. At about five or six years old, I'd feel like changing them would be a good safety idea. If you're going to be point judged, the club now wants to see double white walls, inside and out, and those babies are pricey. Black walls are acceptable too, and I think look better for some cars, maybe not a sexy beast like yours though. Last thought on this long post, consider finding your dad's copy of the 35-36 restoration book by the V8 Club. Below is a picture of what the cover looks like. -VT/JeffH
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| len47merc | -- 06-29-2015 @ 11:58 AM |
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A few considerations to get you started: Remove each plug and insert a couple of tablespoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and with the ignition off turn the motor over for ~30 seconds. Run an appropriate concentration of Sea Foam in your initial gas to break down any deposits in the fuel lines, fuel pump and carb. Personally I'd disassemble the carb and completely clean it, particularly given your description, but you may get lucky and the Sea Foam will do the trick for you with time. Were it me I'd pull the fuel cell and have it completely cleaned out. Personally would not trust simple siphoning to clear the muck that is likely in there. Flood the rear-to-front fuel line with pure Sea Foam and let it sit for ~1/2 a day (plug the rear end once it shows when using a pipette to fill it from the front), then blow it clear before reattaching to a cleaned fuel cell. Note it will take more than a few cranks to get the fuel from the tank to the carb and fill the bowl. Full choke for ~3-4 seconds will help create vacuum to aid it getting the fuel to the front of the car. Clean and insert spark plugs and test to ensure you have spark. Jack each wheel and check for hydraulic leaks on each wheel cylinder and at all fittings. Remove the drums and ensure your brakes are operating correctly. Suggest completely purging the aged brake fluid with fresh. Was the car parked as shown in the pic? If so you may find the bias plys to be permanently flat-spotted and ride like the proverbial Flintsone Bedrock. You may get lucky - give them a try once you get it running and drive slow to heat them up and they may loosen to a smooth ride. If the tires were out of the sun for the entire period and you see no dry-rotting/cracks, and the flat spotting, if any, disappears, you'll likely be ok for short runs at modest speeds to complete your 'bring it back to life' efforts. EDIT - NICE car btw!!! Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-29-15 @ 11:59 AM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-29-2015 @ 1:16 PM |
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You may have an oil bath air cleaner. The bottom is filled with engine oil up to a line stamped into the base. Look closely. 20W-50 engine oil is a bit heavy how about 10W-30 for a new engine low miles or 10w-40 for higher mileage, at the next oil change. You may want to change the other fluids after you get the car to run (transmission and differential). Don't forget about the steering box.
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| rmetzg | -- 06-29-2015 @ 1:19 PM |
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Thanks for the detailed response, Jeff. I was surprised to see the positive grounding, but was glad you mentioned it, as I was unaware of this. Though I thought the old battery was hooked up the other way when I removed it (negative to ground), I assumed that I didn't check all that closely when removing it. I hooked up the new battery, positive to the braided cable ground, got a nice spark off the battery post, and saw the light on the radio come on. I tried headlights and brake lights, but got nothing out of them. After a couple of minutes, I noted that the radio light had dimmed to almost nothing. Jiggled the cables and the light flashed on and off. After another minute, I had nothing from the radio light. When I jiggled everything again, I got nothing. Touching the cable to the battery post now produces barely a spark (probably because there is no load). I unhooked the battery, with a sinking feeling in my stomach. I am concerned if I did the right thing by assuming positive ground. I have heard that some people have converted to negative ground, but would be very surprised, as this car looks pretty much all-original and untouched. I may want to bypass the braided cable next time. Is attaching positive right to the frame the best way? Before I hook the battery up again, does anyone know if there is a way to absolutely identify if I have the original positive-ground system, or if it has been converted to a negative-ground? Need some troubleshooting advice before I try it again. I hope I haven't fried my vacuum tube radio!
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-29-2015 @ 1:22 PM |
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https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/fileattachments/IMG_7548.JPG The link above will show you what a typical oil bath air filter looks like.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-29-2015 @ 1:29 PM |
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If your car has the cut out mounted on top of the generator use + ground as original. How about a photo of the engine? By the way battery cables have slightly different sizes + or - Look at your battery you can see the slightly different diameters of the terminals.
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| rmetzg | -- 06-29-2015 @ 1:37 PM |
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Steve, I think you are exactly right. See attached pic. I did some research and it does appear to the oil-bath cleaner. Who knew such a thing existed?
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| rmetzg | -- 06-29-2015 @ 1:51 PM |
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40coupe, here's a photo of the engine. The cutout is the silver module on top of the generator? I looked at the size of the battery clamps, but can hardly detect a hair's difference between them - the braided cable one might be just slightly larger, which would match up with the larger positive terminal on the battery. Thanks for any advice.
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| Stroker | -- 06-29-2015 @ 2:24 PM |
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rmetzsg: You have inherited a real "jewel". Just don't get in a hurry to try stuff before you understand the unique idiosyncrasies of early Fords. As you have stated the Forum is your best source, and we love to help. Ask first, and we will do our best to help. Many of us (myself included) are older than dirt, and got our training making the same mistakes you will. The +/- batt terminals are different sizes, so the correct pos and neg cables should be sized to accommodate the different diameter positive and negative terminals As for oil bath air cleaners, these were the standard for all brands of automobiles until about 1957 when the modern paper filter was introduced. On early Fords, the standard air cleaner was an oil-mesh type, with the oil bath offered as an accessory for dusty environments. This message was edited by Stroker on 6-29-15 @ 2:27 PM
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| rmetzg | -- 06-29-2015 @ 2:46 PM |
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Thanks to everyone. I am definitely relying on your expertise here! One additional finding. I found a blown fuse in the fuse block in the attached picture, which may explain why I no longer have any current draw. The fuse that came out is a Buss SFE-30. There were fuses in the glove compartment - Buss AGC 7-1/2. Recommendation for the right one to replace it? Consulting my 1935 wiring diagram, I only see one fuse on the whole drawing, but it does not give a size recommendation. I note that this diagram does NOT have a radio on it, so I'm wondering if the fuses in the glove compartment go in there.
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| VT/JeffH | -- 06-29-2015 @ 4:02 PM |
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Lots of good suggestions. If you try the SeaFoam, be sure to do things outdoors. From what I remember that stuff makes clouds of smoke come out the exhaust. It's normal for that product, but you don't want to do it indoors. -VT/JeffH
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-29-2015 @ 4:46 PM |
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Yes that is an (accessory by Ford) oil bath air cleaner! Ford had three different oil bath air cleaners: the Dolaldson, United & the Heavy Duty) The outside of the lower unit is marked for the proper oil level. The fuse is 20 Amp. Looks like you have some additional wires added. The fuse is only on the lights(by Ford, adding wires ???) . You can start the car without it. You have the cutout on top of the generator (it prevents the battery from discharging through the generator when the engine is off) connect the battery + to Ground. The V8 Times has an ad for Robert Shewman he sells a very good flex fuel line from the steel line on the firewall to the fuel pump. Add a few drops of engine oil to the generator oil cups (2-front and rear) This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-30-15 @ 4:06 AM
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| TomO | -- 06-30-2015 @ 9:34 AM |
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Very nice car. Turn off your radio, lights and any other accessories the are on the car and make sure that you have the battery connected with the POS terminal grounded. I would also remove the generator belt, in case the cutout is defective. If it is, your generator will try to motor. Make sure that your battery is fully charged, before you try to start it. The fuse for the radio should be the 7 1/2 AGC the fuse for the lights should be a 20 amp fuse. As others have said, you may have some junk in the tank after sitting for 5 years without running. The best way to take care of this would be to drop the tank and take it to a truck radiator shop and have them clean it for you. If you do not want to drop the tank (it requires considerable work on a 36), I would put in a couple gallons or so of mineral spirits and let it set over night. Drain it into a pan and check it for color and debris. If it comes out brown, I would drop the tank. If it comes out clear, you will can take a chance on the tank being OK. Tom
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| VT/JeffH | -- 06-30-2015 @ 12:44 PM |
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Hi Everyone, I like TomO's suggestion, he gives very good advice on many troubleshooting questions. Just a thought, you might wanna make sure you can get the drain plug out of the tank before trying the mineral spirits. Getting the tank out would involve getting the filler neck disconnected, not always easy, and I believe works best when you have a specialty wrench. If it comes down to it, I have an un-used, refurbished tank out in the garage. -VT/JeffH
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| len47merc | -- 06-30-2015 @ 2:41 PM |
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Alan - should you in the end choose to not remove and have your fuel tank professionally cleaned, it is strongly recommended you place an in-line fuel filter just north of the tank itself to protect your forward fuel line & system from contaminants that may be produced from the tank. If you are fortunate enough to have several miles of no problems after running through a couple of full tanks or so you can always remove the filter if you are wishing to stay 'original' and are confident in the condition of the tank. Note camera/light systems and resources do exist that can survey the interior of your tank if you wish to do so, but even they cannot catch every piece of debris or varnish clogs that may exist. Regarding the Sea Foam smoking, I am not necessarily concerned by it specifically and have had excellent results with it on fuel systems in your condition. I have ran it in the proper concentrations and have noticed no discernible smoking of significance. The MMO placed in each cylinder, however, will definitely produce quite a mosquito-killing cloud on first start-up and more than traces of smoke will remain for several minutes after first start-up. Under the mantra of how best to make friends and influence people suggest you move the car outside, point the rear end at your neighbor's garage and let 'er rip. Have no experience pulling a fuel tank on a '35 but per trusted resident expert TomO it sounds challenging. Nonetheless I'd still pull it and clean it were it mine, or AT MINIMUM follow TomO's suggestion (& VT/JeffH's of ensuring the drain plug is removable in advance) with the added recommendation of the in-line filter to protect the balance of your fuel system. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-30-15 @ 2:46 PM
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| cliftford | -- 06-30-2015 @ 5:52 PM |
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Someone mentioned the brakes: It origionaly had mechanical brakes and may or may not been converted to hydraulics. I would consider all the advice offered here,especially on the fuel system and go through it from gas cap to [and including] carburetor. Trust me you will be glad you did.
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| len47merc | -- 06-30-2015 @ 6:13 PM |
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That was me on the hydraulics cliftford, embarrassingly showing my ignorance of some of the fundamental idiosyncrasies of the earlier models. Given the vehicle is only slightly modified it may likely still be mechanical as you reference - if not, I stand on my comments there and also acknowledge I should have stayed with the more universal fuel system and start-up-after-5-years-idled considerations. Thanks - good catch! And my apologies to Alan for sending him chasing a red herring if in the end the brakes are indeed still mechanical. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 7-1-15 @ 7:20 AM
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| rmetzg | -- 07-01-2015 @ 11:37 AM |
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Good news here. I concentrated on just getting the engine to start for now. Installed the new battery, with positive ground as suggested. Have replaced the oil with Castrol 20W50 - 4 quarts (no oil filter). Took out each spark plug and squirted a little Marvel Mystery Oil upward in each cylinder to enable initial lubrication. I used a 97-cent squirt bottle and some plastic tubing to allow me to get oil to the top of each cylinder and allow it run down by gravity, to try to get maximum coverage (picture attached). Drained the coolant and temporarily replaced with a weak vinegar and water solution to enable dissolving any calcium deposits. Will replace with Prestone 50/50 soon. I was still worried about the fuel tank and fuel line, so I rigged up an external line using a coffee can and some plastic tubing. I got a good seal by buying the tubing a little undersized, wrapping the end with electrical tape and threading it into the brass fitting on the short fuel line going to the fuel pump. Verified it had a good seal by mouth. I decided to prime the fuel line, the pump and the carburetor by cranking it until I could smell and touch fuel through the top of the carb. Video here - https://youtu.be/xdB5wV2AjKE Then, after checking things over one last time, I tried a start for the first time in 5 years. It turned over and ran on the first crank. And yes, that is surprise on my face! - https://youtu.be/6qiQ2LFx5rg I was able to back it into the garage, so the transmission seems good, too. Next steps? I think I need do the greasing and lubricating mentioned by others here, air up the tires, and think hard about that fuel tank. Any other suggestions? Thanks to all for the help so far. Alan
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| len47merc | -- 07-01-2015 @ 12:57 PM |
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That's great news Alan! Congrats! Still suggest you mix the proper concentration of Sea Foam in your temporary fuel tank and run the engine long enough to fill the fuel pump and carb with the mix. Let it sit for a few hours or overnight and crank it again, and then run a full tank with the mix after you resolve your tank and fuel line concerns. Good preventative process that may save you a lot of headaches down the road. Be glad to share in more detail how to use pure Sea Foam to clear a line that, in my case, had sat for ~35 years without running if you're interested. On the fuel tank, really have nothing for ya other than a complete clean or internal inspection as were discussed earlier. Wish there was a magic cure there - again, you may get lucky... You've really got a gem there! Love the video - didn't see the cloud of mosquito killer fill your garage though! Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 7-1-15 @ 3:34 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-02-2015 @ 4:36 AM |
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ALWAYS make sure to turn the ignition switch to the off position when the engine stalls! The ignition switch provides power to the coil and if the engine is not running it is possible (distributor points have to be closed) to damage the coil beyond repair. Your kids look happy for you!! Congrats!
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| TomO | -- 07-02-2015 @ 7:28 AM |
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That is a sweet sounding flathead. Glad that you got it running. You cranked the engine with the starter for over 40 seconds, the recommendations are to use the starter for no longer than 10 seconds at a time with at least 30 second rest in between the 10 second bursts. The starter motor can be damaged by the heat generated by long bursts. You can reduce the time to prime the system by elevating the coffee can to at least the fuel pump level. You can install a fuel filter just before the fuel pump by replacing the flex line with the filter an connections for the filter. This way you will not have to cut your tank line. After a few weeks of driving, you can check the amount of debris caught by the filter and make an informed decision about pulling the tank. You could do the same at the tank, but you would have to bend the line. Make your first few trips close to home and drive the car for at least 30 minutes after it has reached operating temperature. If there is any debris in the tank or line it should show up under these conditions. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 07-02-2015 @ 10:24 AM |
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A primary concern of mine with placing a filter at the engine end of the line is unknown debris/gunk currently/possibly in the tank clogging his hopefully clear (or clearable/cleanable) 'original' line coming from the tank. Either method will work - after seeing what was in my tank (albeit after 35 years or so idled, not 5), if he is not opting to remove and clean the fuel tank, for me I'd choose to run a complete temporary line from the tank to the fuel pump with a transparent in-line filter rather than risk it. If the filter shows no debris or contaminants of significance after multiple full tanks and adequate driving/run time I'd then still place a filter at the engine end of the original line as you state TomO and leave it for several tanks. Likely being way over-cautious but I've had my share of fuel delivery problems over the years associated with debris from old fuel cells/gas tanks and the earlier ones were bears to diagnose (for me anyway) and always chose to show themselves at the most inopportune times. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 8-5-15 @ 2:55 PM
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| VT/JeffH | -- 07-02-2015 @ 2:46 PM |
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Hi Everyone, Congratulations rmetzg, those engines are amazing! 40 Coupe is right-on with the info about the ignition switch. Even experienced flathead'ers have been bitten by that one! Especially when you're having issues, it is very easy to forget to switch it off. Once it comes time to shift the tranny, go slowly with the shifter. It took me a while to get in sync with the tranny. The maneuver is more, out of gear, into neutral, into gear, not nearly as quick as a modern gearbox. Also remember that to go from second down to first the car should be stationary, first doesn't have a synchronizer. Don't be too hard on yourself, everyone clips a gear or two until they get the hang of it, so a crunch is, well not normal, but typical. Don't trust the brakes too much until you get some more info on their condition. Tap them before you get rolling too quickly. You've got too nice a car to have a mishap at this stage. I assume those are your kids, good lookin' family! The look on your face is priceless! Can you do us a youtube of a walk-around, maybe inside and out? The car looks like it's in VERY NICE SHAPE from what we've seen so far. Really good story! EDIT: Since we're all concerned about the fuel tank, is it possible to come up with an engine bore scope? Using one of those you could get a look inside the tank maybe. -VT/JeffH This message was edited by VT/JeffH on 7-2-15 @ 2:48 PM
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| rmetzg | -- 07-02-2015 @ 9:13 PM |
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Thanks, everyone. Great advice! Jeff - I'll try to do a walkaround video in a day or two. Will post and let you know. I took it out for the first time today - twice, for a total of about 7 miles. It did great. I'm pretty used to the non-synchro tranny from driving my Dad's old '62 Chevy pickup from way back. Steering is a little wobbly - I assume that's normal. Like it's cambering left and right a little. Regarding the fuel - I ran it using my temporary coffee can rig (tie-wrapped securely to the front bumper), which worked great. I feel good about the fuel system from fuel pump downstream. Before taking it out for a drive, I put about a gallon of gas in the tank with some Seafoam. This was clear unleaded gas. After driving it around, I immediately siphoned the tank up through the fuel line and got what you see in the attached picture. Yellow color, but absolutely no particulate material (the pic is taken from the the bottom of the milk jug to show this). So, questions for everyone. Obviously it's not good that I'm getting the yellow color out of the tank, but there is no evidence of rust matter. Would I see any if I siphon the tank like I did? Or would it stay in the tank? I prefer a solution that doesn't drop the tank, but I may have to do it. By the way, mention was made of a borescope to inspect the tank. It's funny, but I sell borescopes for jet engines, so I should probably be able to get hold of one. Thanks!
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-03-2015 @ 3:52 AM |
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Over one winter season the gas can turn the color you have experienced. It does not look that bad. I would not run it in a lawn mower but have drained it into a modern car with a larger tank and have not had any problems. Best to run it through a coffee filter first.
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| len47merc | -- 07-03-2015 @ 6:02 AM |
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rmtezg - for your and the car's safety, on your steering, if you have not already, suggest you jack up the front end and check the wheel play top-to-bottom and front-to-back on both front tires to make sure the front end is still tight and no components need adjusting or replacing. Assume you have lubed all components that can be. Are you confident in the brakes and know how they will and that they will work consistently and effectively, especially in emergency situations? You car certainly looks like someone before you took pride and care in their quality work but please do not be overconfident with the brakes and get over-anxious to drive the car. On the fuel you siphoned I would not be too surprised you did not see any sediment, debris and/or rust scale and other residue as most if not all of this settles to the bottom, but while driving will slosh around and can easily make it into the fuel line. Again, you may be very fortunate and I hope you will be. Rust, scale & debris may, and I repeat may, also be on the sides and/or top of your tank and will not show itself until you fill the tank at least to the level the scale may be at. Strongly suggest you at minimum both place a clear in-line filter as TomO suggests and absolutely keep the Sea Foam at a moderate to strong concentration for a while (1-2 tank fulls) as you bring the car back to running condition. If I had access to a 'guide-able' borescope I'd take full advantage of it on the fuel cell before proceeding much further. Be sure to check very closely, if you can, the area around the fuel line connection and on the bottom in front of it as well as all sides and the top. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 7-3-15 @ 6:06 AM
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| TomO | -- 07-03-2015 @ 6:24 AM |
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The yellow color probably came from the bad gas that was left in the tank. I would try to remove the drain plug and see what comes out. Steve is correct about the rust flakes and other debris in the tank not showing up until the most inopportune time. My solution for that is to carry a can of compressed air, like the ones used to clean computer keyboards. They will temporarily clear a clogged line. Steve the reason for the filter at the fuel pump is to catch the debris in the fuel line. The steel lines can rust from the inside as well as collect debris from the tank. In my experience, the filter will give you plenty of advance warning before the line becomes plugged. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 07-03-2015 @ 6:36 AM |
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Got it Tom - did not consider that. My thinking was, in rmtezg's case of not pulling the fuel tank, to fill the fuel line with Sea Foam and cap it off to let the SF do its trick for a day, drain, blow it out with compressed air (in both directions) and repeat. This worked well for me though I still have kept the in-line filter in front of the fuel pump you then recommended for over a year now. It is still running clear - I did pull the tank and have it professionally cleaned and internally coated as the first order of business upon car receipt. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 7-3-15 @ 6:37 AM
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| VT/JeffH | -- 07-03-2015 @ 7:13 AM |
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On clearing a fuel line... Before changing our fuel tank, Dad made up this gizmo. I'm glad I looked at it today because I was under the mistaken impression that it could double as a tire inflater. -VT/JeffH
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| Kens 36 | -- 07-03-2015 @ 7:28 AM |
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Jeff, Now that's old school. Henry was clever! Ken
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| VT/JeffH | -- 07-03-2015 @ 7:35 AM |
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Thsnks Ken, Now I'm blubbering all over the place! I can't wait to see you and the wifey next week! -VT/JeffH
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| rmetzg | -- 08-05-2015 @ 11:41 AM |
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Guys, As promised, here is a link to a walkaround video of the whole car. Sorry for the portrait mode, vertical camera-handling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWXH3vA6XCg FYI - I've now got it flushed, greased, and a fuel filter installed (pic attached - I ordered a new line, cut it in half, and inserted a filter - works great). Chased down a short in the electrical system (brake light switch) and have it now legal, licensed, titled, and insured. Ready to enjoy it for a while!
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| len47merc | -- 08-05-2015 @ 2:52 PM |
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Alan - great video and car! Thanks for sharing it with us all. Suggest you pick up the '35-'36 Ford Book and read-up on what is truly original - it will help you down the road with your maintenance and decision making as you move forward with the car. As well, should you wish to show the car and/or submit it for judging you can be better prepared and not experience any unfortunate 'surprises'. Still recommend, if you can, that you place a filter just north of the fuel tank, at least for a while until you are comfortable, this after backward flushing/soaking the current line with Sea Foam & then blowing it clear with compressed air. May save yourself a ton of headaches in the long run. As TomO mentioned earlier, from his experience where you have it now may/should give give you adequate advance warning of any trouble to come - your call on how cautious you wish to be. Very nice car! Congratulations! Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 8-5-15 @ 3:03 PM
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| JM | -- 08-06-2015 @ 6:53 AM |
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Alan, I remember reading your initial post on this, but just came back and read the entire thread including watching the walk around video. That is a very nice '35 5 window coupe. You will have a blast driving that car, and I am sure you will have admirers wanting to look it over and talk to you about it everywhere you go. I am working on my standard model '35 5w rumble seat coupe right now as well. I am removing, and rebuilding as necessay, the entire running gear to make sure I have a reliable driver. Nothing compares to driving an early Ford flathead powered V-8 in my book. John
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| rmetzg | -- 08-06-2015 @ 8:10 AM |
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Thanks, John. It's been a labor of love these last few weeks, especially because this has been my father's car. Looks like you have a great one, too. Is than an antenna mast in front of the driver's door? I have the radio in mine, but it's not working yet (need to check fuses first), and I can't find anything that looks like an antenna on my car.
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| TomO | -- 08-07-2015 @ 6:42 AM |
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Automobile manufacturers used a few different antennas for radios in 1935. They used the wire mesh in the roof, the spare tire and an under the running board antenna. I don't remember what Ford used on the coupe, but you should be able to follow the antenna lead to get an idea of where it is. I believe that the information is included in the Club's 35-36 book along with a wealth of other information. Tom
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| rmetzg | -- 08-09-2015 @ 2:25 PM |
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For what it's worth, I'll backtrack with a little update on the fuel system. The original gunk I got out of the gas tank is documented earlier in this thread. I began to add a couple of gallons of fuel to the tank at a time, and then drive the car using my makeshift external fuel tank (coffee can and tubing directly to the fuel pump). This would "shake it up" a bit, and then I would siphon the tank dry. The final two siphons are seen in the bottles on the left and middle. Brand new gas is in the bottle on the right, for reference. It certainly got cleaner each time, though I now have a few gallons of contaminated gas that I'm not sure how to get rid of! I never once saw any sign of rust or any hard deposit of any kind come up through the clear siphon tube, so I felt pretty good about the condition of the tank. Whereupon, I made the fuel filter insert as shown previously and began to run straight from the fuel tank. I've run the car for about 50 miles since then and have had no problems. The fuel filter appears clear after all this time. Thus ends the story (so far) of the fuel system concern. Thanks to all who contributed.
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| trjford8 | -- 08-09-2015 @ 6:43 PM |
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Looks like you may be "home free" on the gas tank. As others have said you should buy the V-8 Club's 35-36 book. It will help you immensely with your car. The radio antenna for you car is probably the wire mesh in the padded roof insert. If you follow the antenna cable and it goes up into the right side windshield pillar then the mesh is your antenna. This message was edited by trjford8 on 8-9-15 @ 6:43 PM
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