| jreed | -- 05-30-2015 @ 3:42 PM |
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Hi all.. Here's my problem!! My 36 sedan stalls when the car is on even a slight forward decline..even when stopping. I rebuild the carb and adjusted the float which, I thought, was the problem. No luck.. I noticed a small amount of gas around the fuel pump gasket/diaphram. Could that be the problem? Will I have a problem re-installing the pump if I remove it with the manifold still attached? Thanks This message was edited by jreed on 5-30-15 @ 4:38 PM
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| ken ct. | -- 05-30-2015 @ 5:17 PM |
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No need to remove manifold ,just remove fuel pump from stand.If its leaking around the diaphragm I would just try tightening the 6 screws and install new cork gasket under the top cover also is a fiber gasket under the top bolt and renew the small one under the drain screw. I have them if you cant find them. ken ct.
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| jreed | -- 05-31-2015 @ 10:24 AM |
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Thanks, Ken.. I tightened the six bolts prior to rebuilding the carb. Will replace the two gaskets next.. May need to get from you. Do you feel that the fuel pump may be the problem? I forgot to mention that this later model 36 has a 48 stromberg and not the 97 that I'm told should have been on it. Motor numbers indicate a late date 1936. Jim
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| TomO | -- 06-01-2015 @ 7:20 AM |
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If the fuel pump is leaking around the diaphragm after you tightened the screws, the pump needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The stalling could be that the engine is flooding when you stop or that the idle speed is too low. If the engine is flooding, you should check the fuel pump output pressure. It should be between 2-3lbs. Use a combination vacuum / fuel pump pressure gauge to check it. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 06-01-2015 @ 8:05 AM |
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On the idle speed point Tom makes I had a similar problem with the engine quitting after a harder than normal stop. I previously posted a question on this and among other recommendations (float level, leaks, etc.) Tom came back with the idle speed comment and recommended 450-500 rpm. While I liked the slow idle speed I'd had the car set at (loved to watch people marvel at almost being able to read the print on the fan belt at 275 rpm and how smooth and quiet the 59AB runs at that low rpm) I adjusted up to 450 and the problem completely disappeared. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-1-15 @ 8:08 AM
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| jreed | -- 06-01-2015 @ 1:55 PM |
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Thanks guys..I think I'll go ahead and order a fuel pump repair kit just in case. Also will work on the idle settings and let you know. I appreciate the advice. Is there a reason someone would install a Strombery 48 in place of the 97 other that cost? Would the car respond better if I replaced the 47?? Jim
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| len47merc | -- 06-01-2015 @ 6:42 PM |
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Have to defer to Tom, ken ct. and a host of others on the 48/97 question. Steve
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-02-2015 @ 3:44 AM |
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The 48 Carb. is slightly larger than the 97 and both should allow your car to run well. If you want better fuel economy the 97 also marked 67 will be slightly better. Charlie Schwendler in NY has an alcohol proof diaphragm and can rebuild and test your fuel pump.
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| jreed | -- 06-06-2015 @ 4:58 PM |
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Thanks to you guys, my 36 doesn't stall on hard breaking or decline anymore. I did a bit of adjusting on the float, set the idle up a little and rebuilt the fuel pump. I just got back from a 20 mile ride to test everything and noticed that the temp gauge was only at the half way mark, but the actual engine was so hot I nearly burned my fingers trying to check the oil (dip stick hot). A bit of smoke coming from the oil breather. Is that normal for these ole flat heads?
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| TomO | -- 06-07-2015 @ 9:21 AM |
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I'm glad that you were able to cure your stalling problem. The dipstick should not get hot enough to burn your fingers unless it is touching the exhaust manifold. Some smoke coming out of the breather after the engine is stopped is normal. You may need to clean the breather as they do become clogged with oil. Use a candy thermometer to check the coolant temperature. They can be purchased at most hardware stores. Be careful when removing the radiator cap. Tom
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| jreed | -- 06-09-2015 @ 2:44 PM |
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Thanks..I have a brand new infra red surface spot temperture device. Can you tell me what the "running normal high temp" should be on the heads? I had a bad experience taking a radiator cap off when the engine was real high and need to avoid doing that unless I have to. Jim
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| TomO | -- 06-10-2015 @ 6:45 AM |
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The infrared readings take from the upper hoses is more representative of the coolant temperature than readings taken from the head. I like my car to run between 160 and 180 F. Tom
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| jreed | -- 06-10-2015 @ 2:36 PM |
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Thanks again, Tom. I never thought of that. I really like the lines of the 36 sedan. Just had to have one.
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| TomO | -- 06-11-2015 @ 6:45 AM |
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Great looking car. Tom
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