rdofloor | -- 05-03-2015 @ 9:17 AM |
i have a 36 that I can not get the oil stop from leaking from the eng. the seal looks good but willnot stop leaking I have heard that you can convert it to a rope seal. does any one know what has to be done to do this?
|
|
David J | -- 05-04-2015 @ 10:29 AM |
Are you sure it is not the pan cork seal or the rear cam cover ? Do you have the drain pipe in place ? If yes is it scr*w*d in too far ? If it is scr*w*d in too far it acts as a dam and causes a leak . Another cause is a rear main that is a little loose - especially the back half . No simple cure all answer on this and the stock setup works fine if all is in good order .
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-04-2015 @ 11:39 AM |
I have taken the pan off and the cork is fine at the rear of the pan and I checked the rear main and it had 1*5th ( did this with the engine still in the car),I also made pressure pot and preasureized the oil system in through the oil sending unit with the pan of and every thing looked fine oil did not look like is was coming out where it should not have been. I also put a fitting into the drain hole on the clutch housing and piped it into a gal can. I did fint that the oil was coming out of the chutch area. when I had the pan off, I took the rear main cap off and the lower labyrinth seal looks fine. Roger Oliver
|
|
David J | -- 05-04-2015 @ 12:51 PM |
How much oil pressure are you running ? Did this issue start out of the blue or has it always done this . Do you have the pipe in the threaded hole in the rear main cap ? If yes does it reach down to the oil ?
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-04-2015 @ 1:35 PM |
yes it reaches into the and I found a new pipe from little dearbourn and they are shipping it to me and the hole is not pluged. this all started when I got the car from a shop in Mn they got it from a estate, so there is no tracking it down. I got the car home and decided to change the oil not knowing the history of the car. it did not look as if was leaking any oil then, I changed the oil and I put 4 qts in and it did not show on the dip stick so I put in 2 more thinking it was a 6 qt. drove it a half mile and oil was all over. drained 2 qts out, and it will not stop throwing the oil. the dip stik was me. Roger Oliver
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-04-2015 @ 1:36 PM |
I am running 20 to 30 psi oil pressure
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-04-2015 @ 1:37 PM |
I have 1-5 thousands in the rear main
|
|
David J | -- 05-05-2015 @ 10:08 AM |
Capacity is 5 quarts of oil . What weight oil are you running ? The pipe should only be turned in about 5 turns or so . If it is scr*w*d in too far it WILL cause a leak . Look closely at the rear cap and pipe and you will see why . What does 1-5 clearance mean ? How did you measure this ? The clearance on the rear half of the rear main [ behind the groove ] is real important with a labyrinth seal . Your oil pressure is not the culprit .
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-05-2015 @ 5:15 PM |
i have 1.5 thousands measured with plastigage. i think i might have found the trouble, who ever put this eng together never put the pot metal seal in the bottom. but when i went to put one in it would not fit. i think some one inter change the main bearing cap with a different one. i am in the process of trying to find a different bearing cap. Roger
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-05-2015 @ 5:17 PM |
i am running sh*ll rotella 15-40 for oil as it has teh zink the is needed.
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-05-2015 @ 5:24 PM |
I think i found the problem who ever put this eng together never put the pot metal lower seal in. when i tried to install the lower seal i would not go into the grove. i think that some one exchanged teh bearing cap for another. also my crank has two slinger one it. i am trying to fing a different rear bearing cap. Roger
|
|
David J | -- 05-05-2015 @ 6:19 PM |
Back to basics here , Can you post pics of this stuff ? That would eliminate much of the confusion . Does your rear main cap look like the pics here ? It should be the same basic configuration . This setup does not have a 'seal" . The double flange on the crank is for this type seal [ labyrinth ] . Also 1.5 thou is pretty darn tight if accurate . This message was edited by David J on 5-5-15 @ 6:22 PM
|
|
David J | -- 05-05-2015 @ 6:20 PM |
another pic
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-07-2015 @ 9:18 AM |
david j my cap looks like the picture, I may have found the problem my return pipe was straight and no check ball. the pipe that was sent to me from little dearbourn is on the main cap and has a check ball. also I talked to Rex Gartner from ok. and he told me that sh*ll does not have zink in there oil, he got this from his cam shaft supplier.
|
|
rdofloor | -- 05-07-2015 @ 9:32 AM |
my main cap looks like the one in the picture so I do not need the pot metal seal , Rex Gardner from olk. said there was some early one made that way, also little dearbourn sent me a different tube and it has a check valve in it as the one I hade did not. Rex said that sh*ll Rotella dosnot have zink in it any more according to his camshaft supplier. enclosed is a picture
|
|
TomO | -- 05-07-2015 @ 4:29 PM |
Your engine does not need the ZDDP in the oil. There was very little zinc and phosphorus in the oil until the late 50's when manufacturers were having camshaft were problems that were eventually fixed by changing the metallurgy in the can shafts. Tom
|
|
EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=8469 |