| pinnsky | -- 04-15-2015 @ 2:28 PM |
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I recently read that you can keep the thermostats in place by using a rubber hose inside the radiator hose. Would it be possible to use schedule 40 pvc which can be used in pressurized systems up to 140 degrees? Since the thermostat is 160, non pressurized it seems like it may work and may be easier to insert. What do you think?
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| len47merc | -- 04-15-2015 @ 3:54 PM |
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No experience with the PVC, but the Gates rubber hose as described in other discussions on this forum is not that difficult to insert with a simple coating of coolant and pre-positioning using the coolant flange on the head. Did it on my '47 with minimal effort and it has been a permanent, effective solution that has remained fixed and effective through multiple removals of the hoses and stat changes. Steve
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| TomO | -- 04-15-2015 @ 4:37 PM |
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You don't need to use any method to hold the thermostats in position if you use the correct thermostat. The correct thermostat is held in place by the stock hose. The correct size thermostat will just fit in the end of the hose and not go up into the hose. Tom
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| TonyM | -- 04-15-2015 @ 5:14 PM |
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I must have done something wrong. I used two sets of Thermostats, one pair from Joe's and one pair from Mac's--both sets would flip or move inside the hose. Had the correct hose too. Not sure why mine would not stay in place. I have since solved the problem. . . . 78-730B
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| joe b | -- 04-15-2015 @ 5:49 PM |
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I had the same problem with mine. They were 160's from C&G. Found them both cocked in the hose. Noticed it when the engine ran around 190. I tried PVC but it melted and basically flattened and went up the hose. Was able to get it with pliers. I used a second hose clamp above the water neck to retain the thermo's. Works just fine. I don't have a concourse car and only a keen eye will spot it. TONYM how did you solve the problem on your car?
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| Old Henry | -- 04-15-2015 @ 6:03 PM |
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Here's the simple and secure method to secure the thermostats. Use one strand of stranded wire.
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| Old Henry | -- 04-15-2015 @ 6:06 PM |
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Or this.
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| Old Henry | -- 04-15-2015 @ 6:09 PM |
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Or this.
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| Old Henry | -- 04-15-2015 @ 6:11 PM |
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Another look at the first.
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| len47merc | -- 04-15-2015 @ 6:53 PM |
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Gents - in follow-up I must be doing something wrong as well, though what I do not know. After bringing the '47 back to life the original 171 degree bellows stats (i.e., 2"-3" tall) were checked (hot water on the stove with a Fluke meter/themocouple) and found to be fully functional, so back in they went with new original stock style hoses from Carpenter. They canted as soon as I cranked the car (again, original stats), so moved on after several stat 'resets' to a set of original stock style hoses from Job Lot and had the same problem. Fatigued of the problem and, at the time, was intending to have the motor compartment judged in the Rouge class so the visible 2nd clamp above the 1st was not an option. I tried Old Henry's option (which I liked then and do now) but for some reason at the time I just could not stop a slow, frustrating weeping of coolant around the wires, so impatiently tried the 'hose in a hose' solution and it worked for me. Old Henry's method did keep the stats firmly in position - believe had I been more patient at the time the seal could have been improved further and the weeping stopped completely. If judging/scoring is not a consideration the two clamp method I have seen work well on several drivers and is a quick, effective fix. If anyone can advise the appropriate source for the correct hoses that prevent canting of stats (original or new) am sure we all will appreciate the knowledge. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 4-16-15 @ 2:50 PM
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| fla48 | -- 04-15-2015 @ 6:54 PM |
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I have used Old Henry's system. It stopped my problem of the stats flipping.
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| TonyM | -- 04-15-2015 @ 7:20 PM |
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joeb, I did the same as you--I used a second clamp above the stat. . . . 78-730B
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| len47merc | -- 04-15-2015 @ 7:56 PM |
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pinnsky - going back to your original question, suggest you steer clear of the PVC option. Even though your stats are rated at 160 degrees, your engine and the coolant/stats/hoses will likely see temps at times higher than that, especially during the warmer months and also during longer runs at whatever highway speed rpms you operate at (regardless of pressurized or not). You've got several alternate options here that have been proven to be effective and any should work for you with much less risk of failure. Steve
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| ken ct. | -- 04-16-2015 @ 5:03 AM |
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If the correct therms are used you wont have all this trouble. The OD of the therm MUST be larger than the OD of the head neck. That way the therm will be trapped by the hose over it. The clamp is placed slightly over the edge of the head opening. And I think bellows type therm are used in pre 37 engines as in the hose therm not for 37 and up engines. OMO ken ct.
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| TomO | -- 04-16-2015 @ 8:09 AM |
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I went out in my garage and checked some thermostats and water outlet diameter. I also checked some of the radiator hoses that I have. The thermostats all checked for 1 7/8" diameter and the ID of all of the hoses was also 1 7/8". Then I noticed that the hoses that I bought back in the 1970's had a bigger reduction in the OD just above where the outlet fits that the newer hoses that I bought in 2005. The older hoses had a 1/8" smaller OD than the newer hoses. The old hoses measure 2 1/8" OD above the clamping area and the newer hoses measure 2 1/4" in the same area. The ones on my car measured 2 3/16" in the same area. The newer hoses must be the ones that are letting the thermostats travel into the hoses, because that reduction in size is what is supposed to keep the thermostats in position. I can't find my inside calipers to measure the ID above the clamping area, so I can't give good measurements of the ID change. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 04-16-2015 @ 2:22 PM |
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Thanks Tom - great info. I found the same thing during my earlier troubleshooting, that being the original top hoses on my 59AB neck down both visibly and by vernier caliper more than the new stock style hoses purchased from both Carpenter and Job Lot. The variance is 1/8"-1/4" in my case for both hoses, depending on where around the circumference the measurement is taken. Measurements of my original stats, a NOS set still in the box and the newer stats did not yield any variance of relevance. I even went so far as to reinstall the original hoses on the in-the-box NOS set of stats as well as a new set of Stants and found none of these would cant in the original hoses but all would in the new hoses. This is why I asked for input on upper hose sources that could supply product that would effectively prevent this from happening (i.e., neck down further and more consistently with the originals). I spoke last year, when going through this process, with multiple sources beyond the two mentioned above and all indicated varying degrees of this problem with their hoses being sold at the time. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 4-16-15 @ 2:31 PM
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| 42guy | -- 04-18-2015 @ 4:44 PM |
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What I use is thin wall copper pipe 1 3/4 in. dia. by 1"long. This fits in the hose and holds the thermo in place.
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