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Steve S
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-- 02-22-2010 @ 2:26 PM
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I'm stripping the front axle and suspension on my '39 pickup for paint. The two bolts which hold the stabilizer bars to the axle (has attachment for shock link on top) are in there really tight. Should they simply slide out or do they thread? If they slide out can they be turned while doing so or are they located to prevent spinning?
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Stroker
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-- 02-22-2010 @ 3:12 PM
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Steve:
When you refer to "stabilizer bars", in this instance I believe you are referring to the bolts that attach the "wish bone" to the axle. Given that bit of trivial nomenclature, I would first-off question why you need to remove them just to paint. If you must remove them, you may have to =use a long-term soaking with a good penetrant; my favorite is 50% acetone, and 50% hydraulic fluid. A hydraulic arbor press should drive them out, but be sure and not "mushroom" the threaded bolt end. One way to avoid this is to invert the castle nut, and screw back on so that the flat bottom of the nut is flush with the end of the threaded part. The bolts should press out, and if not, an application of heat to the boss around the bolt hole might help. If it was my project, I'd leave them alone unless you must replace either the axle or wishbone.
Dan
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Steve S
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-- 02-22-2010 @ 3:35 PM
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Thanks for that. You're correct I meant the wish bone. My reasoning for removing it is because I want to use POR15 on everything and it seems like a better idea to have the parts disassembled. If there is no reason to ever separate the two pieces other than replacing one of them due to damage then perhaps I'll just paint them in one piece.
I was able to remove one nut (barely) with a 150lbs/ft impact wrench, and found the nut is actually chamfered on one side like a lug nut. Perhaps I should just put a bit of grease on those threads, tighten back up to 150 lbs/ft and call it a day?
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Stroker
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-- 02-22-2010 @ 4:04 PM
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Steve:
I've taken these out only because I wanted to replace a stock axle with a "dropped" axle.
Sometimes "Discretion is the better part of valor".
Dan
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BrianCT
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-- 02-22-2010 @ 6:03 PM
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Don't tighten to 150# after you have cleaned and greased it. you might twist it off.
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Steve S
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-- 02-22-2010 @ 11:23 PM
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Thanks guys. I've decided to leave them alone, and if the day comes when I need to remove them then I guess I'll cross that bridge as I come to it. Heck, POR15 is so tough that it will surely stiffen the whole assembly after painting it assembled. Yeah, right! 
I don't know if linking to other forums is allowed here but if anyone is interested in following the project let me know and I'll post a link to a small local forum where I'm posting images as I go along.
Thanks again for the advice on this one.
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alanwoodieman
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-- 02-23-2010 @ 6:35 AM
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in my 30 years plus of experience in 39-40 Fords I have come to the conclusion-:if it ain't broke don't fix it" The only real reason to remove the bolt is if you can move the axle around on it. To answer your question, they are not threaded but fit very tight,#2 the nut is chamffered to allow it to center on the radius rods and therefor to hold it from moving. The best way I have found is to heat cycle the axle a few times to loosen the fit and also use liberal amount of any good penetrating oil applied from the chamferred end of the bolt.
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supereal
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-- 02-23-2010 @ 8:28 AM
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The usual reason to remove the perch bolts is excess wear on the shackle mounts. Almost always, it takes a lot of heat to get them out before a press can move them. I've seen them heated nearly cherry red, and still not budge, which raises questions about the temper of the axle. As the others have said, if you don't have to remove them, don't.
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Steve S
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-- 02-23-2010 @ 9:32 AM
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Good info, thanks. The bushings did wear completely through and into the mounts, but looks like I can get away with a simple bushing and pin replacement. I've attached a photo just for giggles.
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wmsteed
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-- 02-24-2010 @ 5:13 AM
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The pic that was attached to Steve's last posting clearly shows shackle pins/bolts that in all probability have never been changed since 1939.
If the holes in the axle/perch pins are wallowed out from wear, sometimes a good fix is to use the later style with loose rubber bushings and shackle bolts.
If you are going for dead stock, then the press in original style of shackle bolts will have to be used.
Bill
36 5 win delx cpe
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deuce_roadster
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-- 02-24-2010 @ 8:53 AM
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I have taken quite a few perch bolts out and it is scary at best. For those who would attempt to use a hammer--don't even try you will only make it more difficult. My press has a guage and most of them let loose at between 17 and 20 TONS with a really nasty bang. I screw a hardend nut flush with the end before I push and have only had to heat an axle slightly once. I only offer this for those who might try to take them out without the proper equipment. It is much harder to do after the end of the perch is mushroomed or bent over.
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40 Coupe
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-- 03-01-2010 @ 9:24 AM
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I have used Devcon to repair the casting then reem to 0.75 and then press in new shackle bolts.
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