| 37 Coupe | -- 02-21-2010 @ 5:39 AM |
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Has anybody gotten any favorable results from Ron Francis switch that is claimed to be more silicon brake fluid tolerable? I got two seasons out of a Harley switch,would like to do better.Thank You.
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| trjford8 | -- 02-21-2010 @ 7:48 AM |
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I can't attest to the Ron Francis hydraulic switch, but I use a mechaical switch. I've been using them for years and never had one fail. They were originally used on the older Chevy pickups. I have a Ron Francis catalog and the switch can be seen on page 57. The switch mounts under the floorboard and the lever arm mounts behind the pedal arm.These switches can be bought at most automotive stores for $10-12. Francis also sells one that is adjustable, but if you look at the photo you could make a regular one adjstable yourself.
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| supereal | -- 02-21-2010 @ 10:09 AM |
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Short brake light switch life is common with DOT 5 (silicone) fluid, as it invades the contacts. Likewise, leakage at the wheel cylinders is not rare. If you use silicone, next time you have the drums off, pull back the rubber cylinder boots. Chances are you will see evidence of fluid "creep". That is why conversion usually requires replacement of the wheel and master cylinders if you want reliable braking.
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| 37 Coupe | -- 02-21-2010 @ 11:47 AM |
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I started out with new cylinders,lines,everything even NOS brake drums and have never used anything but DOT 5, went to the Harley switch because it was supposedly compatible as they use silicon, I may go to the mechanical one as suggested typed in Ron Francis wiring and a page of switches shows the mechanical and hydraulic ones.
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| Steve S | -- 02-22-2010 @ 2:23 PM |
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I've been using the Ron Francis SW-32 on non-Ford cars for several years with Silicon (DOT5) fluid. No issues to report, and they still work perfectly. This message was edited by Steve S on 2-22-10 @ 11:24 PM
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| supereal | -- 02-23-2010 @ 8:37 AM |
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There are several kinds of mechanical stoplight switches available for pre-'39 Fords. They include the lever style from the Model A's, and the pull type switches from others. I like the '35-'38 switch, 48-1340, as you can mount it in many places, then connect with a wire and spring. They take a bit of ingenuity to mount, but all the system requires is a simple open/close switch that reflects the position of the pedal. The bullet connectors on the hydraulic switch can cause problems, as they are exposed under the car. If they don't fit with a "snap", replace them with new ones.
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