Topic: Torque tube center bearing removal and install

Tonygall	-- 01-06-2015 @ 7:38 PM
	My first post. I think i've found a new bearing but have never installed one. Tony
kubes40	-- 01-07-2015 @ 6:32 AM
	Tony, I am guessing there's a question hidden within your post??? Might that question be: "How do I install the center bearing"? If that's it... to do this job properly one must realize the bearing MUST be placed within the torque tube to an EXACT depth as well as an EXACT orientation. KR Wilson made a tool that made this job easy. I have heard others claim they have done this job with a simply made threaded rod type tool. I am not so certain how they managed to get that bearing in the exact place it needs to be. Or, IF they managed to. If the bearing is not correctly placed, it will not accept grease through the fitting in the torque tube. So, did I guess the question correctly?
Tonygall	-- 01-07-2015 @ 9:44 AM
	Sorry I realized after posting that my question was pretty vague but thought the topic title asked the question instead. Yes I’m in the process of having the rear end rebuilt; everything is new with the exception of the torque tube center support bearing. I’m told none exist however I found a supplier who found 3 “New old stock” all three are accounted for and one is mine and on the way. I should have it in my hand soon. With so few available I don’t want to mess this up. Thanks for deciphering my question. I think from your answer this is pressed into the tube so if we make exact measurements prior to pressing out the old and assuming it won’t rotate on its way out we should be able to press the new one in with the same orientation. Once we have the new bearing in hand it should reveal some clues. Rather than all-thread I’ll have a machine shop fabricate a steel rod that will support it so it’s not distorted when it’s inserted. I'm asuming there are no clips etc. holding it and the seal in place? so then it's only held in place by friction? Thank you for your help, if you can think of anything please send it along. Tony
Drbrown	-- 01-07-2015 @ 6:21 PM
	The procedure you're talking about has been discussed in a number of threads on several Ford Forums, and there's great information, supported by photos, to be found in them. I recommend you use the "search" feature to find them. Good luck.
ford38v8	-- 01-07-2015 @ 8:31 PM
	Tony, Welcome to the Forum, and please forgive the previous posters who must have got up on the wrong side of the bed. It's not really our purpose to harrass and discourage fellow V8ers. First, you didn't say what year your Ford is. There are two distinctly different types of driveshaft, a solid, and a hollow. The Hollow has no center bearing, and was installed in the early years, the hollow transitioned in the late 30's, You can discover which you have by the presence (or lack of) a zerk fitting on the bottom center of your torque tube. It is this zerk itself that holds the bearing in place. I had mine replaced at a flathead machine shop, but I must assume that upon removal of the zerk, a probe can reveal the correct positioning of the new bearing. I would recommend the purchase of a Ford publication, available at most antique Ford parts dealers: The Ford Service Bulletins are reprinted, and available for your year Ford car. Check also on this website for the EFV8CA publications covering your exact year, not mechanical How-To books but very helpful in the correct restoration of your car. Alan
kubes40	-- 01-08-2015 @ 7:05 AM
	Good morning Tony, I apologize if you found my initial response offensive in any way. I did in fact wake on the "right side" of the bed. The bearing, once in your hand, will tell a story indeed. The perimeter of the bearing itself is vulcanized within a thick layer of rubber. The rubber causes an interference fit within the torque tube. While I am certain this bearing can be installed without the specialty tools, I caution you that care must be taken to install it at the correct depth and orientation. If it is not done correctly, you will not be able to grease the bearing. I, like you, replace this bearing during each restoration project. It is simply too difficult (hazardous) to do once the entire car has been reassembled. Good foresight! Kind regards, Mike Kubarth
TomO	-- 01-08-2015 @ 7:26 AM
	Tony, Skip Haney makes a replacement bearing and here is a link to the installation procedure that he recommends. I have not done it, so I cannot verify if it will work with your NOS bearing. http://www.flatheadv8.org/drivebearing.htm Tom
Tonygall	-- 01-08-2015 @ 10:18 AM
	Thank you gentleman, Mike I started off asking a vague question so no apologies necessary. Thanks Alan for pointing out Mikes bad behavior “just kidding” I appreciate all your help and insight. As I stated I’m new to the club so just sort of in the learning curve. I did first try the search but no mater what the subject it came back with 0 found. So I just through the question out there. Mine is a 47 Tudor with a solid drive shaft and a zerk in mid position of the torque tube. The shaft looks scored so were assuming the bearing is as well. I’m a hands on guy so it’s hard not to get my fingers dirty. I found a shop I like doing the gear box and rear end. They, like me were born with a wrench in our hand but we just want to cover all the bases and get it right. I will look for the referenced material. Thanks Tom, I called Skip Haney but got a recording so I left a message. $150.00 is much better than the $375.00 I was quoted from All Ford in Ca. Thanks to all, Hope to meet you at a meet, Tony
Tonygall	-- 01-12-2015 @ 11:11 AM
	Just an update, I did buy the bearing from All Ford and it does look as though it was never installed. Cost $375.00 I later got a call back from Skip Haney. He's still making the torque tube center bearing. His is an industrial ball bearing with a very similar rubber mounting. As he described it he turns down the rubber so it's the same diameter as the original tube then makes a sleeve to fit over the drive shaft. It sounds like a pretty good system with modern bearings and rubber and a fraction of the cost of an original @ $150.00 + shipping if you can find one. Best number to reach Skip 941-505-9085 He also rebuilds water pumps with a newer turbine style impeller and ignition parts. Tony
V8 Doc	-- 01-13-2015 @ 9:47 AM
	I have a '37 Ford Roadster and am starting a '37 Conv. sedan. If anyone in this conversation has found a clear method of removing and replacing this center torque tube bearing, please tell me how to get a copy of it. After I get said instructions, I will part with two of the original NOS center bearings I have at $50 per. Feels good to be nice to other nuts like me - we need each other. If inclined, call me at 979-776-1887, Bryan, Tx.
Tonygall	-- 01-14-2015 @ 6:30 PM
	Hey Brian, I can help you with a 47 having just done it. I'm not certain on a 37 how much of a difference there is. Tony
kubes40	-- 01-15-2015 @ 6:56 AM
	V8Doc, I have the K R Wilson tools for removing & installing this bearing. I am willing to draw up a print for you if you like. The tool to remove the bearing is not really necessary. The tool for installing it is wonderful. It not only sets the depth correct, it orientates the bearing properly as well. Let me know if you might be interested. I am a retired tool maker and see this as an easy to copy tool. Kind regards, Mike "Kube" Kubarth
Tonygall	-- 01-15-2015 @ 10:01 AM
	Hey Mike, I'd like to see what the original tool looks like. Would you forward me a copy? Thanks Tony
kubes40	-- 01-15-2015 @ 11:44 AM
	Tony, I tried to get a good photograph of the actual tool but I need to be too far away to get a good depiction of it. I have included herein a copy of the page from the KRW catalog. This should give you (at least) a good idea of what the tools are. Mike Kubarth
Tonygall	-- 01-15-2015 @ 8:28 PM
	Thanks Mike, I see where the idea of all-tread comes in. Pull it off and pull it on. A round plate and pipe welded to the end of threaded rod with a slot cut in the plate to accept the tab on the bearing. The bearing would fit on the pipe and orientation fixed by the tab. Then an alignment notch cut in the other end of the rod indicating the orientation of the bearing. The plate can only be large enough to fit through the hole after the seal is removed. Sweet!! Thanks Again, Tony

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