| w1spurgeon | -- 02-13-2010 @ 7:53 AM |
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Still working on my '36 Tudor rewire job. This diagram is the battery/starter/generator circuit as it exists now. Could you please look this over and correct the diagram? I'm pretty sure the cowl and body harnesses are installed correctly and are not shown here. Thanks
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| NATESBPD | -- 02-13-2010 @ 8:36 AM |
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Dont know if this will help but this is for my 34 Ford! http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wirediagram1933-34car.jpg
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| NATESBPD | -- 02-13-2010 @ 8:38 AM |
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And more misc part..and diagrams... http://www.oldengine.org/members/southwell/1934-1939_Ford_Repair_Instructions.html
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| deluxe40 | -- 02-13-2010 @ 9:26 AM |
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It looks to me like your '36 has been modified to have a later (e.g., 1940) style starting and charging system. As I recall, the '36 uses a generator cutout, as listed in your new wiring instructions and a floor mounted starter switch. In contrast the '40 uses a voltage regulator and a solenoid-controlled starting circuit. So, a '40 wiring diagram would probably answer your questions. With that in mind, here's how I would answer the questions on your diagram: 1. One wire from the battery side of the solenoid goes to the battery post on the voltage regulator. Another wire from the battery side of the solenoid goes to the amp meter, light switch and ignition switch. 2. The small post on the solenoid goes to a '40-style starter button that just grounds the wire to engage the solenoid and starter. (I assume you have only one small pole on the solenoid.) Is there a starter button somewhere on your dash? Or, did the previous set up use the stock starter switch with one side to the solenoid and the other side to ground? (Your diagram shows one side of the starter switch going to the amp meter and dash - this would be the stock '36 configuration.) 3. Has a light switch also been installed in the dash? If so, it goes to the dimmer switch (which should have three poles, one for battery, one for high beam and one for low beam). The stock '36 has the light switch on the steering wheel with different positions for high and low beam. Basically, you need to decide if you want to convert your car to the stock '36 configuration which matches your new wiring or you want to add some wires to hook up the '40 and later style components you seem to have installed. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 2-13-10 @ 9:47 AM
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| w1spurgeon | -- 02-13-2010 @ 10:15 AM |
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Thanks for the great input. My goal is neither to restore to the original configuration nor to convert to later wiring. My goal is to get the d*mn thing running. I shoulda stated that the previous owner had replaced the cut out and coil with a modern coil and voltage regulator. He also moved the starter switch from the floor to the dash, but I am moving the switch back to the floor (bought new switch). The car retains the original steering column mounted light switch. This message was edited by w1spurgeon on 2-13-10 @ 10:33 AM
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| w1spurgeon | -- 02-13-2010 @ 10:51 AM |
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OK, if I understand correctly, I should: 1. Add a wire from the battery side of the sol to the battery term on the voltage reg. 2. Add a wire from battery side of starter switch to the small terminal of the sol. 3. Ground the other side of the starter switch Is this correct?
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| Bill4d1merc | -- 02-13-2010 @ 2:08 PM |
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If you are putting in the original style floor switch I believe you can eliminate the solenoid and use the floor switch to supply power to the starter. check out http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1936.jpg for a schematic for the 36. As for the wiring for the voltage regulator run a wire to the YB wire that should go to the generator cutout this would then leave the ammeter in the circuit and it will be easier to go back to the original set up if you decide to later. hope this helps, Bill This message was edited by Bill4d1merc on 2-13-10 @ 2:09 PM
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| deluxe40 | -- 02-13-2010 @ 3:56 PM |
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W1.. Yes, I think you have the shortest path to a running car in your 3-steps listed above, although you must also move the wires to the amp meter and dash from the new starter switch to the battery terminal on the solenoid. The new starter switch will be used ONLY for grounding the small terminal on the solenoid while starting. If you are using the stock '36 light switch, I don't believe you will need the "dimmer switch" shown in your diagram. Also, please note that the wire from the ARM terminal on the voltage regulator goes to the large terminal on the back of the generator. One of the small terminals on the side of the generator is FIELD and, if you have a second small terminal on the side of the generator (lower down), it will be GROUND. If you do not have the GROUND terminal you have a '40 generator (if you do, it's a '41 or later). You probably have this right already, but the diagram made me wonder. If you have the '40 generator, it grounds through the mount and the manifold, so the mating surfaces must be clean. Some would recommend adding a ground wire to be sure. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 2-13-10 @ 4:54 PM
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