| tom3654 | -- 02-11-2010 @ 8:54 AM |
|
i had my 34 box rebuilt and when i got it back there is a tight spot in the middle when you turn it from side to side- i didnt have the steering wheel attached. the rebuilder said ford did it like that from the factory to help keep the car straight. is he right or just trying to con me thanks tom
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-11-2010 @ 9:20 AM |
|
hi Tom 3654 You should have a little free play in the straight ahead position, I would get a manual on this and read it to be sure, and get familiar with the steering box, but if he used after market parts,to rebuild it, , they are hard to work with, you might have to back off just a tad, to see if it frees up, it might free up just by turnig it back and forth, also install the steering wheel,so you have some leverage, let hear how you made out, maybe superreal will weigh in, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN, 1 END PLAY in the WORM,up and down, 2 SECTOR SHAFT,end play, 3 ajusting the 2 together,
|
|
| supereal | -- 02-11-2010 @ 9:58 AM |
|
I'll try. First, jack up the front wheels and remove the drag link from the arm on the box. Turn the steering wheel as you count the turns, and mark the center spot on the wheel and the steering column. Uncover the adjuster on the box, and turn the screw just enough to take out any backlash, but no more. As you turn the steering wheel back and forth, you should be able to feel the high spot. Set the steering wheel at that point. Being sure the front wheels turn back and forth easily, and without binding, place them in the straight ahead position. Adjust the length of the drag link until it slips into the steering arm easily. Be sure to fill the steering box with lube, such as gear oil mixed with grease to the consistancy of honey. If the steering box was properly set up, with close attention to the worm gear backlash, you should be OK. If the worm gear was badly worn, or an inferior repro, you probably won't be able to get it right. If the box is tight, it probably was set up that want, and will need to redone to provide smmoth operation. Most steering complaints arise when the steering wheel isn't in the right spot when going straint ahead.
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 02-11-2010 @ 2:29 PM |
|
sitting in my chair it is hard to determin what tight spot means. if there is some minor drag in the middle, lasting for a very short period it may be fine especially with the steering wheel attached and the box mounted and then filled with lube. You may never notice. If the drag is substantial and you can barely turn the shaft by hand through it and it seems to last for a longer length of time, it probbly needs to be readjusted.
|
|
| supereal | -- 02-11-2010 @ 3:14 PM |
|
The high spot on the worm gear is somewhat difficult to feel, particularly if the box is filled with stiff lubricant. That is one of the reasons to disconnect the drag link to isolate the steering gear. Adjusting the loading screw to eliminate any lash takes some practice. If you cinch it too far, you will not feel the spot, and can actually cause damage to the worm gear. Rebuilding a steering gear requires experience, as the end play of the shaft is controlled with shims, and the preload on the bearings must be correct. Sometimes the rubber bushing on the shaft under the steering wheel is hard, or otherwise interferes with the process. The new bushings now available contain a metal tube as a "bushing in the bushing". Drake sells them as B-3517-N, on sale at $15. Incidentally, for the guy looking for trunk hinges for his '37, Drake's new catalog shows them for both styles, flat and hump.
|
|
| 40fordor | -- 02-12-2010 @ 8:09 AM |
|
Bob My 40 steering wheel has been off center at about 25 degrees (about 1/8 of a turn) since I purchased it years ago. It's steering is excellent and only needs the wheel straight when going in a straight line. Will the method you outline here of taking the drag length loose centering the wheel then adjusting the drag length correct my problem? I have considered pulling the wheel and trying to place it back on in the center position. Don
|
|
| supereal | -- 02-12-2010 @ 11:13 AM |
|
Adjusting the drag link should do it. Most of the steering shafts have a wide spot on the steering wheel end that prohibits simply turning the wheel on the shaft. If your drag link isn't long or short enough to do it, pull the arm off the steering box shaft and reposition it. Usually, the serrations permit relocation.
|
|
| deluxe40 | -- 02-12-2010 @ 7:22 PM |
|
Bob, I adjusted the steering wheel on my '40 by loosening the two bolts on the sleeve that connects the drag link to the tie rod end at the spindle (opposite end of the drag link from the steering box). You can then rotate the sleeve with a pipe wrench until you get the steering wheel centered with the wheels pointed forward. Turning the sleeve one way makes the drag link longer and turning it the other way makes is shorter. Just don't go so far that there aren't enough threads to be safe. I think there are slots in the sleeve so you can see how close to the ends you are getting. You will probably have to do this a couple of times with drive tests in between to get the steering wheel centered exactly.
|
|
| v8toolman | -- 02-14-2010 @ 3:01 PM |
|
Tom, The slight tightness will quickly wear in on a new worm and sector. I've done many Model A Boxes which are very similar. At center steer position you have your tightest mesh with the worm and sector. Anything off center from there you will have normal play. In my opinion you will be re-adjusting you box quickly to take the play out again if you take it too loose. Remember, when the steering wheel, lube, etc is all in and on the car you probably won't even feel it. Again, it will wear in quickly ( if you drive it). Larry Shepard, St. Charles, MO
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=791 |