| jim w | -- 09-27-2014 @ 9:34 AM |
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i936 Ford,Has anyone used the needle bearing & sleeve arrangement to replace the orginal rubber bushing B-3517. This needle bearing is made inMaple Grove,Mn.by Mr.Brusegard. It goes in the top of the steering column on the shaft. Jim W
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| kubes40 | -- 09-27-2014 @ 9:42 AM |
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He produces a very high quality piece. The difference in effort required to steer is in fact noticeably less than with a stock bushing in place. One bit of advice I'd like to offer: as the steering column tubes were mass produced and quickly at that, they are not all the same inside diameter. that being the case, make certain the inside diameter of your tube will accept the outside diameter of the assembly you receive. A press fit is out of the question here. I would suggest a fit of no more than .001" clearance. If you attempt to press an oversize assembly in to your tube, you will most certainly distort the tube. Bottom line? You'll be pleased with the end result! Mike "kube" Kubarth
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| ken ct. | -- 09-27-2014 @ 1:03 PM |
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They are the best Jim.Put 1 in mine 15 yrs ago works beautiful. ken ct.
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| jim w | -- 09-27-2014 @ 2:27 PM |
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thanks Mike,All I need now is to find anold steering wheel puller.
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| jim w | -- 09-27-2014 @ 2:29 PM |
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Thank you Ken.
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| ken ct. | -- 09-27-2014 @ 5:19 PM |
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New ones use tapped holes in hub. Old fords used a diff type. Sometimes they will pull off with out one,mine did. ken ct.
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| kubes40 | -- 09-28-2014 @ 5:46 AM |
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Quote: thanks Mike,All I need now is to find anold steering wheel puller. If you can't locate a proper puller, you should have room to drill and tap (thread) a pair of holes in the center hub of your wheel. 5/16 fine thread is best. Be careful not to drill through the hub. I would suggest a flat bottom drill bit be utilized for the last 1/4" of depth. If you have threaded holes, a simple timing gear puller works well. Nearly every guy has one of those in his tool box. Let me know if I can help in any way. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 4dFordSC | -- 09-29-2014 @ 7:03 AM |
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IMHO, the most time-consuming part of the job is digging out the old rubber bushing:-( This message was edited by 4dFordSC on 9-29-14 @ 7:03 AM
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| JM | -- 09-29-2014 @ 7:40 PM |
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All good information above. There are other options for using ball bearings in the upper column, but the Brusegard(sp?) is the Cadillac of them all. Another problem or time consuming area could be removing the light switch/horn rod unless you happen to have an open style '36 that allows the rod to come out w/o bending it or having to drop the column down to an angle that will allow the rod to come out. If you try to take a short cut and bend the rod, you will have other problems. some of the '35 steering wheels I have removed were very tight on the tapered steering shaft. I made a puller that pulls on the base of the center hub to get the really tight ones off. It works like the original KRW steering wheel puller. Also, as mentioned above those old original rubber bushing can be a bear to get out. I had one that defied all attemps to get it out from the top of the column tube. I wound up removeing the column tube and driving those bushings out with a shaft installed from the bottom of the tube. As it turned out someone had driven two additional rubber bushings in on top of the original and they were all glued together. What a mess!! John This message was edited by JM on 9-29-14 @ 7:50 PM
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