| carguy | -- 09-13-2014 @ 4:51 AM |
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I've read here that some folks recommend using the thermostats others say don't bother. My issue is it appears that my radiator can't handle the volume of coolant put out by the water pumps and I removed the thermostats because someone suggested that I remove 'em. Seems to me, however, that the thermostats even when open might reduce the flow to a level my radiator can handle. Comments please. Bill Brown '34 Cabriolet
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| len47merc | -- 09-13-2014 @ 5:27 AM |
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Use them assuming your cooling system is healthy and clean with no blockages. Additionally, whether you use them or not ensure that your coolant level is 1.5" - 2" minimum below the top of the filler neck to allow room for designed expansion in the tank, otherwise the excess will expand and blow out of the overflow tube until the coolant reaches its natural, designed level. Using them will produce a quicker warm-up, particularly in cooler weather. While many prefer the new, wider opening Stants, the original bellows-type 155 degree (summer, 95-100 degree heat) and 171 degree (winter) are working well personally (in a '47 btw). Steve
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| drkbp | -- 09-13-2014 @ 8:13 AM |
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Bill, I use 160 degree Bridgeports in my '35. The filler cap is closer to the driver side water pump on mine. That will cause coolant loss at 50-55 mph. My car came with a 4:11. The '32-'36 water pumps provide far too much circulation. The '37 and later engines were improved for cooling by moving the water pumps down in the lower front of the block and making them part of the engine mounts. Worked a whole lot better. The 160 degree stats are called "5 standard" (Bridgeport) and that is the ones you want. Here is the manufacturers direction sheet instructions in the box. "Each model of thermostat is furnished for two different temperature ranges. 1. The "Standard Temperature" is furnished for use without a hot water heater or for use with a hot water heater when alcohol is the anti-freeze. 2. The "High Temperature" is for use with a hot water heater when prestone or glycerine is the anti-freeze." Most you see around are the High Temperature 180 degree that are intended to be used with heaters and antifreeze. However, if your car can run at idle in the driveway for twenty minutes, 85 ambient, hood up, no stats, you probably have a healthy cooling system. Take a thermometer and put it in the top tank. Record the temp. Put the 160's in and go through the same routine. You should see a little drop in the top tank temperature (cooler). Your thermometer should be showing about 155 degrees in the top tank with the stats in the hoses. The temp will climb slowly above 160 but at the end of another ten minutes you are not even close to a boil. Check your dash temp gage and that is about "160-165" degrees. Mine will show right in the middle, normal. Those gages aren't the best but if you know where "160" is you will know when it is hot for whatever reason. The stats don't correct a system that is cooling poorly but they reduce the mess and coolant loss in the early V8's. This message was edited by drkbp on 9-13-14 @ 8:16 AM
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| TomO | -- 09-13-2014 @ 8:31 AM |
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You don't need thermostats in the summer. The only purpose and function of a thermostat is to get the engine up to operating temperature quickly and that will happen normally in the summer. If you drive your car in the colder temperatures (40F and below), thermostats should be used to prevent sludge build up. Anti-freeze available before WWII was alcohol based and the boiling point was about 150F, so 140 degree thermostats were used in the winter when your car was new. Ethylene-Glycol did not come into common use until after the war. Thermostats can fail and when they do it can cause the engine heat to rise rapidly to the danger point. You must weigh the advantages and disadvantages to you and make your decision. There is no correct decision, just your preference. If your radiator cannot handle the coolant flow of the water pumps, repair the radiator. Slowing the coolant will just add to overheating problems. if you are pushing coolant out of the overflow, it is probably foaming and not cooling properly. Ethelyn-Glycol foams easier than Propylene-Glycol and water foams the least. A pressure relief valve from Skip along with a good radiator cap will reduce the coolant loss and keep the coolant from forming steam pockets. Modern cars do require thermostats all year round. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 9-13-14 @ 8:39 AM
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| Old Henry | -- 09-13-2014 @ 9:48 AM |
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Here is a road test I did comparing thermostats with no thermostats that you might want to look at: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113979
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| joe b | -- 09-13-2014 @ 10:46 AM |
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Thanks Henry. A good test and a good read.
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| carguy | -- 09-13-2014 @ 7:07 PM |
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Thanks to all who responded. Sounds like I better fix the radiator so it will accept the flow rate and, for now anyway, not worry about installing the thermostats. Bill Brown '34 Cabriolet
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| TomO | -- 09-14-2014 @ 8:35 AM |
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Read the last paragraph of my response, if you are loosing coolant through the overflow, it is probably foaming or forming steam pockets and a pressure relief valve from Skip will help. I would try this before I pulled the radiator. Tom
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| Old Henry | -- 09-14-2014 @ 12:02 PM |
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Here's the data comparing Ethylene Glycol to Propylene Glycol: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-propylene-glycol-d_904.html Oops. This post was supposed to be on the coolant thread. Sorry. This message was edited by Old Henry on 9-14-14 @ 1:48 PM
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