| V8JR | -- 08-25-2014 @ 12:37 PM |
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Can the oil pan in a 1939 Tudor be removed with the engine in the car? Any tips or tricks appreciated - V8JR
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| kubes40 | -- 08-25-2014 @ 12:53 PM |
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The oil pan can be removed while the engine remains in the car. It is not a pleasant job. You will need to unbolt the front engine mounts and I strongly suggest you unbolt the rear transmission mounts as well. The rods between the engine and frame must also be unbolted from the frame end. You'll need to raise the engine as far as possible. I'd suggest you remove the fuel pump and stand to allow just a little more room for raising the engine. Remove the starter, dip stick & tube. Once all of the bolts have been removed from the pan and you've broken any seal at the gasket, lower the pan. You will find that turning the engine until the front crankshaft throw is up as far as possible will help with the necessary clearance. If I may ask... why do you want to remove the pan? Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| V8JR | -- 08-25-2014 @ 9:47 PM |
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Kube - Considering to remove the pan because there is a small leak (a few drips after the engine is run a while). The leak is at the interface of the dip stick mount (3 attachments) and the pan - V8JR
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| kubes40 | -- 08-26-2014 @ 5:12 AM |
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V8JR, I'd only asked "why?" as I was thinking if you were doing all of that work to remove the pan, perhaps there were more services that could be tended to at the same time.
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| len47merc | -- 08-26-2014 @ 5:44 AM |
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V8JR - kubes40 comments and questions are on the mark as having been through this effort in the past 6 months and finding that yes, this can be done with the engine in the car, for me personally I have found it is easier, quicker, less frustrating and more productive overall to remove the hood and motor for this task, assuming you have an engine hoist and stand available (motor only - transmission stays in the car). Otherwise, if it is simply the pot-metal dipstick flange that is secured to the pan by 3 pan-head rivets (or small bolts if previously removed) suggest you drain the oil, unscrew the dipstick tube, thoroughly clean the male threads of the dipstick tube and female threads of the flange as well as the flange gasket - all with mineral spirits and then 90% rubbing alcohol. When completely dry (~30 seconds to a minute MINIMUM on a dry day) use a good quality automotive silicone sealant (black RTV for example) on the flange gasket area as well as the threads of the dipstick tube and reassemble. Smooth it, wipe off the excess to make it look 'pretty' if that's your thing and problem solved. In talking with professional flathead engine rebuilders they represent that the dipstick flange is typically removed from the pans for vatting/cleaning of the pan and then reassembled with a new gasket and flat panhead bolts/nuts. Most if not all leak after reassembly, so to kubes40's more than telling point of it '...not being a pleasant job...', if this is the source of the leak, you may wish to take the simpler route. Steve
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| TomO | -- 08-26-2014 @ 7:04 AM |
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Removing the pan is not as big a deal as getting it back in place without leaks. It is much easier to install the pan with the engine upside down than when it is in the car. I would follow Steve's advice about RTV, as you state the reason for removal is to repair a small leak. Tom
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| V8JR | -- 08-27-2014 @ 10:15 AM |
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Thanks all - I'll take the advice of removing the engine to fully fixed the problem the best way - V8JR
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