| JohnJAS | -- 08-21-2014 @ 10:47 AM |
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May replace fuel tank my 39 deluxe. My first time this vehicle. Never removed in 45 years I've owned it. The(3) bolts appear to be rusted in, and w/(rusted)wire passing thru hex heads. Think it's orig. How successful is 'Liquid Wrench' or PB blaster? Any suggestions. Nut cages appear to be(spot)welded in place. Can you slide tank to one side and drop one end down to remove?
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| supereal | -- 08-21-2014 @ 2:31 PM |
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I'd like to string up the guy who had cage nuts used in old Fords. They are next to impossible to remove, and generally just twist the cages off, leaving the bolt intact in an impossible place to reach. They were also used to hold running boards on, and it is always necessary to cut holes in the rocker panel to reach them. It is too dangerous to use a torch near any gas tank. The nuts were wired because the tank sits on springs to prevent damage as the chassis bends. I put a plastic tank in my '47 so I'd never have to do it again. There is no magic solution. You just have to use whatever tools you have. Once the cage is off, you may be able to get a wrench on the square nuts. If they don't move, they usually twist off. This message was edited by supereal on 8-21-14 @ 2:34 PM
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| Forgotten Ford | -- 08-21-2014 @ 3:38 PM |
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I had the same problem to remove the gas tank of my 35 ford. My advise is: 1 - Lift the Car, take the rear wheels off, and put the car on good stands. Be sure to have the car high and well balanced on the stands, once you will pull and push a lot. Take Care! 2 - remove all the bolts that are fixing the rock panel, of the both side, to crate a possibility bend the rock panel. And unbolt the hose and other stuff to release the tank neck. 3 - Remove the rear pipes support, and put the pipes down, to have space to download the tank. 4 - push the rock panel as max you can, to have space to put something to keep the cage nut fixed, usually a screwdriver, and with another wrench you can take the bolt off. 5 - If the bolts are very stuck, cut it off with a hand saw or a chisel. Put the chisel in parallel with the chassis surface and hit it with a hammer to break the screw head. 6 - Ask for a very good friend to help you to pull the rock panel of the neck side to out, to create sufficient space to slip the tank to this side to remove it. It's not easy.. I had spend a entire morning doing it with my brother's help, and we did the same to put the tank again after revamp it. Have a good fun! Rod Keeping crazy finish my Dad 35'Ford restoration! This message was edited by Forgotten Ford on 8-21-14 @ 3:49 PM
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| TomO | -- 08-24-2014 @ 9:18 AM |
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PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery oil will eventually take care of the rusty bolts, but there is a homemade cocktail that seems to work faster, It consists of a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. My 40 Merc has brackets between the frame and the tank, I removed the bolts from the frame first to give me room to move the tank around to get the penetrating oil on the cage nuts. I did this early in the restoration process, and kept soaking the bolts for the few months that I was working on other parts of the car. When it came time to loosen them, I tried tightening a little and then loosening a little until I could remove them. Tom
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