| carcrazy | -- 02-06-2010 @ 2:01 PM |
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What is the best oil to use in a newly rebuilt flathead? Should detergent oils be avoided until after the break-in period? How long should the break-in period be? Is it better to base it on number of miles traveled or number of start-up, run, and cool-down cycles? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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| supereal | -- 02-06-2010 @ 4:02 PM |
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Don't use non-detergent oil, even for breakin. We recommend straight weight 30 for the first couple of hundred miles, then switch to a multigrade oil, such as 15-40 or 20-50 for summer driving. Most old cars and trucks are lightly driven, and it may take some time to accumulate the miles necessary to allow the rings to seat. Avoid synthetic oils, particularly during breakin, as they delay the run-in time. Depending on the amount of use, oil changes should be at least at the start and end of each driving season, in most cases. The detergent additive in oil reduces the formulation of sludge, particularly in engines that seldom are highway driven enough to boil off moisture.
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| Stroker | -- 02-06-2010 @ 4:39 PM |
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I concur with Supereal on the use of a straight-grade non-detergent while the rings lap-in. Here is the break-in recommendation from my original 38 "Reference Book" (owner's manual). "You can forget the tedious 500 or 1000 mile breaking-in period with your new Ford. It is ready for normal driving immediately. You can drive it up to 60 miles an hour right from the start. After the first hundred miles you can drive it as fast as you desire. This means that you can enjoy your Ford V-8 from the start-which is important particularly if you are thinking of taking a long trip-or if you use your car for business. You do not have to drag along at slow speeds. the Ford V-8 needs no "breaking-in" because of unusual accuracy in the manufacture of moving parts and the smoothness of bearing surfaces. Clearances were correct when the car was delivered to you. The car does not need to depend on a long wearing-in period to eliminate tightness and insure smooth running. Such precision methods are bound to result in longer life, greater economy and better performance. They are further proof of the care and quality that have gone into the making of your Ford V-8. the oil in the engine when you receive the car is satisfactory for the first 300 miles." Form 7732 Copyright, 1937 Ford Motor Company Dearborn Michigan All rights reserved
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| ford38v8 | -- 02-06-2010 @ 7:25 PM |
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Stroker, the information in the original owner's manual doesn't apply today for several reasons: The original engines were "run in" with an electric motor, no spark, no fuel. The amps required to turn the engine were continuously monitored, so that when the engine was sufficiently broke in, it was released to the assembly lines. Today's rebuilds do not have that sort of break-in, and require an in service break-in period. Today's oils are far superior to the lubricants of 1937. Non detergent oil in any engine today is not a good idea. Non detergent allows a sludge buildup, which hampers circulation and cooling, and promotes the separation of essential properties in the oil. Alan
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| Stroker | -- 02-07-2010 @ 5:57 AM |
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Alan: Yes I know, but I just couldn't resist quoting the "official line", as it hasn't changed much in 72 years. Personally, I'd use a quality straight grade non-synthetic, vary the operating speed quite a bit for the first 500 miles, avoiding long idling periods, or continuous wide-open running. I'd drain it after 500 miles, and pull an "autopsy" on the filter (if so equipped), and stretch the paper out to look for metallic "pieces". When I drained the oil, I'd also do a compression "leak-down" test. Dan
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