| 39Fordfan | -- 07-16-2014 @ 6:47 PM |
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Hi, I've got a '39 Fordor Deluxe with a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. It has a generator and voltage regulator. The car runs great after I've charged the battery. But it steadily runs worse if I drive far enough. This is all without lights. It misses, and loses power to the point where I need to rev it up and ride the clutch to get it rolling. I can't even get the horn to honk when it gets to this point. The electrical gauge in the dash reads just below the "N" Square when I drive in town. The needle will barely go into the bottom of the "N" Square if I get up to freeway speed. Also the car will run better at those speeds too. I replaced the battery last year, the coil and condenser just this week. It probably needs points and a tune-up. I tightened the belt and that seemed to help a little. Because I have a generator and a voltage regulator, can I still make adjustments to the generator? If so, how? If not, do I need to replace something? Thanks for your thoughts and replies!
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| carcrazy | -- 07-16-2014 @ 10:35 PM |
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Since you have a '39 Deluxe Ford you have the 2-brush generator. Unlike the 3-brush generator used on the Standard '39s no adjustments can be made to the generator to increase the charging rate. Your car also has a voltmeter which indicates the state of charge in the battery rather than an ammeter which shows the current flow in the electrical system. Your electrical system may be functioning correctly while other items may be causing your problems.
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| Grant | -- 07-17-2014 @ 5:58 AM |
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Is it possible that your battery is slowly discharging while the car is parked? Our '36 has been modified in several ways, including a toggle switch which when in the "up" position operates the dashboard lights. Earlier this year we had the vehicle out occasionally during the day, but not at night. The battery went dead three times before I figured out that I had accidentally turned on the dash lights without realizing it. They aren't bright enough to be visible in daytime. One night I stepped into the back of the garage and saw the dash lights on. That was the problem. Maybe something is drawing a little bit of current when you aren't driving the '39? You could try pulling the negative battery clamp off for a few days, and then check to see if any discharging has occurred. A hand-held voltmeter reading taken on the day of disconnection, and then again a few days later, would tell you if the voltage is dropping when the vehicle isn't in use. Another guess........have you checked to see what the generator's output is when the engine is running? Mine was running at 7.4 volts the last time I checked it.
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| cliftford | -- 07-17-2014 @ 6:59 AM |
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True, there are no adjustments that can be made to the generator, since its output is controled by the regulator. But several adjustments can be made to the reg. Get a copy of a Motors or Chiltons manual for this model year, or similar book. It will guide through the trouble shooting procedure. The first thing to do is to determine whether the generator or reg. is at fault,and deal with it accordingly, using the manual you choose. Use caution, as any mistakes can damage the whole system.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 07-17-2014 @ 8:28 AM |
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try to find an old school generater shop and either take the gen/voltage reg to him of drive the car over. I strongly suggest the voltage reg is at fault, probably not adjusted properly since you said the voltage seems to increase at highway speeds. you can take the reg cover off and by taking a screwdriver close the contact from the armature make the voltage change. one problem I have seen is that the wrong reg is used- must be one for a pos ground system
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| TomO | -- 07-17-2014 @ 10:23 AM |
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The left end of the 'N' block is about 6.75 volts and the right end is about 8.25 volts. Around 35 mph your generator and voltage regulator should be putting out 7.2 to 7.4 volts measured at the Battery terminal of the voltage regulator. This would be at the left side of the 'N' block. From your description of the problem, I suspect that your regulator is not working. It sounds like the cutout portion is the part giving you the problem. To determine if the problem is the generator or the regulator, connect a volt meter between the BAT terminal of the regulator and ground. Then connect a jumper from the ARM terminal to the FLD terminal of the regulator and bring the engine up to 1,00 RPM. the meter should read around 7 volts. Remove the jumper as it could cause damage to the generator. If the meter reads around 7 volts, the generator is OK. Repair or replace the voltage regulator. If not the generator is bad and must be repaired. Make sure that the regulator is properly grounded. The cushion isolate the regulator and the grounding is through the lower right hand screw holding the regulator to the firewall. Paint under the cushion at this point could affect the grounding. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-17-14 @ 10:28 AM
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| 39Fordfan | -- 07-18-2014 @ 4:53 PM |
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@Carcrazy. I didn't know that. Thanks. @Grant. I'll have a closer look and try your suggestion. @CliftFord. I didn't know Chilton's went this far back. I'll definitely look for some sort of manual beyond the Ford book I've already got. @Allan. Good to know. How would I know if Voltage Regulator is the wrong kind? Thanks for your replies! This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 7-18-14 @ 5:05 PM
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| 39Fordfan | -- 07-18-2014 @ 5:09 PM |
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@TomO Thanks! That's nice to know how to figure out which one it is. I've had some other grounding issues on this car that I have corrected, but I haven't improved the ground on the regulator. I'll check it out and keep you posted.
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