| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-14-2014 @ 10:00 AM |
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After installing new wiring with soldered bullets, new lamps where required and installing a 1/2" X 5" strip of galvanized metal under the switch on the steering column, I don't seem to have power. Both the flasher & fuse seem OK, & the headlights, tail lights & parking lights come on. However, the brake lights do not respond. I have re-traced the wiring layout, & it appears to be correct. The brake light switch was working before I started. You have been more than helpful in the past so comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
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| CharlieStephens | -- 07-14-2014 @ 11:04 AM |
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It would be real quick to jump across the brake light switch and see if that is the problem. Charlie Stephens
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| carcrazy | -- 07-14-2014 @ 12:22 PM |
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Did you sand the paint off of the steering column to provide a ground to the turn signal switch?
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| 40cpe | -- 07-14-2014 @ 5:08 PM |
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What is the purpose of the galvanized strip under the signal switch?
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-15-2014 @ 7:32 AM |
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Thanks Charlie, I'll give it a try!
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-15-2014 @ 7:34 AM |
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Yes I did, Carcrazy. Thanks
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-15-2014 @ 7:37 AM |
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40CPE, the turn signal would not mount firmly. so I added the strip of galvanized to firm up the contact. Thanks!
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| TomO | -- 07-15-2014 @ 8:45 AM |
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The brake light switch should have voltage to one side and the other side goes to the turn signal switch. When the turn signal switch is in the neutral position, the connection is directly to the brake lights, in the turn position, the connection for the one side goes through the flasher and then to the brake light, while the other side has a direct connection through the switch. Make sure that the turn signal switch has a good ground. Use a test light or meter to check out the connections and switch. If you can post your wiring diagram, we would know the wire colors used for each function and could be more helpful. Tom
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-16-2014 @ 10:02 AM |
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TomO, Thank you for your comments.I'm using a 900 Series 7-wire Switch from Ron Francis. Front left is yellow, front right is green, left rear is orange, right rear is brown, red to hot wire brake switch, black to flasher feed, blue to flasher power source. I'll keep checking with your great suggestions in mind. Alan
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| TomO | -- 07-17-2014 @ 11:03 AM |
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Alan, If you connect the red wire to a voltage source, your brake lights should come on with the switch in the neutral position. If not connect the voltage source to the brown wire and then to the orange wire to see if the lights come on. if they do, the problem is in the the switch. Tom
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-17-2014 @ 3:56 PM |
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You are so right TomO. The red wire did not make the brake lights come on, but connecting the orange & brown wires alternately did allow the headlights, tail lights and parking lights to come on when tested. I'll try to fix the switch, but I might be better off just ordering a new one from a different vendor. Thanks Tom! Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 07-19-2014 @ 7:15 AM |
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Alan, If I read your post correctly your headlights, tail lights,and parking lights come on when you put a hot wire to the orange and brown wires of the turn switch. You need to recheck your wiring before buying a new switch as this should not happen. The turn circuit should be completely separate from the headlamps and tail lamps. Somehow you have some of those wires from the switch connected into the headlight/tail lamp circuit.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-19-2014 @ 2:14 PM |
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Triford8, you are correct. There are new wires from the signal switch running to the parking lights both left & right. The headlight wiring remains as before. One wire each runs to the right rear crossover for left & right tail lights & brake lights. A 5th wire runs to the live connection at the brake light switch. Wire #6 runs to the flasher feed & wire #7 connects to the fused power source. Obviously I must be missing something, and I'll blame it on my age. I'm getting 5.74 volts from the brake light switch to the signal switch. I guess I'll have to figure out the best way to test all of the soldered connections which have been visually inspected. It's been almost 60 years since I've worked on old cars, & the recall is not the greatest. Thanks for your input! I'll keep my nose to the grindstone! Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-19-2014 @ 7:48 PM |
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Sporty: You say in two replies that the red wire from the turn signal switch is connected to the "hot wire brake switch". As TomO noted, it is the switched (or "cold") terminal on the brake light switch that should be connected to the turn signal switch, not the "hot" terminal. The "cold" terminal is only hot when the brake pedal is depressed. The blinker, however, should still work, so you must have something else going on as well.
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| trjford8 | -- 07-20-2014 @ 8:16 AM |
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O.K. you say that one wire each runs to the tailamps and brake lamps on the left and right sides. If the left tail and left brake wires are tied together that is your problem. The tailamps and license lamp are wired in series. The brake lamp/turn lamp for left and right should each have their own separate wire. They are independent of the tailamps. Right now your signal system is backfeeding through the tailamp wires to the rest of the lighting system. As deluxe40 states the wire from the turn switch to the brake switch needs to go to the cold side of the brake switch. The hot wire from your main wire harness goes to the other side of the switch.
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-20-2014 @ 10:34 AM |
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Sporty: I noticed in your initial response that you changed the lamps where required. Did this include changing the SOCKETS for the parking lamps? Also, when you say, in response to TomO: "connecting the orange & brown wires alternately did allow the headlights, tail lights and parking lights to come on when tested", did you connect the orange & brown wires from the turn switch to battery or from the individual brake lamp bulbs to battery (assuming you disconnected the switch from the lamps to do the test)?
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-20-2014 @ 11:49 AM |
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Triford8, at the risk of becoming a pest, I'd like to explain my installation in perhaps a better way. I first disconnected the wire that feeds the brake lamps from the brake lamp switch. At the right rear of the car I disconnected the green wire for the right side break lamp where it connects to the left side brake lamp at the crossover harness. I connected a new wire to the right side brake lamp & ran it forward to the signal switch. Then I ran a wire to the signal switch from the left side brake lamp wire that was disconnected from the crossover harness. A wire was then run from the post on the brake switch that was initially disconnected to the signal switch. Two separate wires were then run to the left front of the car where right & left parking lights were separated & individually connected. Next, a flasher was connected with an inline 15 amp fuse at the X terminal, a black wire was connected from the signal switch to the L terminal, & a blue wire connected from the signal switch to the P terminal. Thanks again for your help. I hope it is a little easier to understand this time. Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-20-2014 @ 12:02 PM |
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Deluxe40, you are correct. My response should have stated "cold terminal. I have the sockets for the parking lamps, but they have not been installed at this point. Also, in testing the orange & brown wires, I connected them from the turn switch to the battery. Thanks for you input. Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-20-2014 @ 5:18 PM |
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Alan: Given then you have not yet installed the new parking light sockets, did you disconnect the old wires to each parking lamp and then attach the yellow and green wires in their places? In one reply you said the parking lights came on "when tested". Was this test with the headlamp switch or the turn switch? I'd like to know what happens when you disconnect the orange and brown wires from the switch and then connect each to battery. This should light up one brake light at a time and nothing else.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-22-2014 @ 9:12 AM |
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Deluxe40, Yes, I did disconnect the old wires to each parking lamp and the attached the yellow & green wires in their places. I tried both the headlight switch & the turn switch when "testing" parking lights. The turn switch did not work, but the headlight switch did. When I disconnect the orange & brown wires from the switch, one brake light works in each case, & the corresponding light on the signal switch comes on. Thanks again for your time & help.
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-22-2014 @ 9:47 AM |
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OK, so the parking lights are connected ONLY to the turn switch (via the yellow and green wires) yet they still come on when you pull the headlight switch on. That means the parking lights are getting battery from the turn switch and battery is somehow getting to the turn switch from the head/tail light circuit. I'm guessing that the parking lights come on both when you pull the headlight switch halfway out (which they should) AND when you pull it all the way out (which they shouldn't). If so, this means the battery is coming from the tail light circuits. You could prove this by disconnecting both the red (brake light) and black and blue (flasher) wires from the turn switch and testing the parking lights again. You might pull these three wires off one at a time to be sure the parking lights remain on each time you pull a wire. If the parking lights are still working, remove the orange and then the brown wires from the switch. If the parking lights don't go out THEN, report back. If they do go out, find out how battery is getting from a tail (or license) light wire to the orange and/or brown wire when you turn the headlight switch on. (I'm having fun here, hope it helps.) This message was edited by deluxe40 on 7-22-14 @ 9:52 AM
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-22-2014 @ 10:48 AM |
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Deluxe40, If I misled you, I apologize. Actually, the parking lights only come on when you pull the headlight switch halfway out. Thanks again. Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-22-2014 @ 12:04 PM |
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No problem, not misled. I'm just looking for a path from the headlight switch (half-pulled) through the turn switch to the parking lights. If the parking lights go out when the headlights and tail lights are on, the tail light wires are not feeding back through the turn switch to the parking lights. Must be something else. I'm not ready to blame your new turn signal switch yet because there should be no connection from the headlight switch to the parking lights through the yellow and green wires. Do the headlights work on both high and low beam?
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-22-2014 @ 4:35 PM |
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Still trying to figure out where the battery to the parking lights is coming from. If you would, check to be sure the parking lights still work and then pull the fuse out from in front of the flasher. Do the parking lights still work?
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 8:24 AM |
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Good morning Deluxe40, Both headlights do work on low & high beam. The parking lights still work & continue to work with the fuse removed. Just a question. Since the headlights are independent of the turn switch & the parking lights, shouldn't they continue to work regardless? It does appear the parking are getting power from somewhere based n your test. I'll do a little probing. Thanks again. Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 9:43 AM |
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Yes, the headlights should work independent of the parking/turning/stop lights. My question and your answer eliminate the possibility of a cross-over between the headlights (high or low beam) and the parking lights. With the flasher fuse removed and the brake pedal not depressed, there should be NO power to the turn switch. Do you have a volt meter or a lamp tester that you can use to find out where the turn indicator switch is getting power?
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 10:24 AM |
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I have a digital, but not certain how to proceed.
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 11:32 AM |
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For a stock, positive ground '40, set the voltage on the meter to more than 6v (e.g. 10v) and connect the red lead to a good ground. Then touch the black lead to connections that might have power. Try it across the battery first to see how your meter reads. Then turn off everything (headlights, parking lights, turn switch, brake light and see if there is any voltage on any of the contacts on the switch (shouldn't be any). Then turn the parking lights on and do the same thing. There should be voltage on the green and yellow wires at the switch. There is likely voltage somewhere else too (brown or orange wires?). Leave the flasher fuse out to begin with.
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 2:16 PM |
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Or, maybe better: Leave the fuse out (thus disconnecting the black and blue wires to the turn switch), turn the parking lights on with the light switch and than remove the red, orange, brown, green and yellow wires from the turn switch one at a time checking to see when the parking lights go out. The reason I am obsessed with the parking lights even through your original problem was with power to the stop lights is that the parking lights should no longer be connected to the headlight switch so battery is getting to them or to the turn switch through an unknown source. Finding it might indicate the problem.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 2:30 PM |
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Hi, The voltage across the battery registered 6.2 which has been pretty consistent. I have a quick disconnect at the battery which makes a big difference. I was sick most of the year & didn't use it at all. With everything off including the flasher fuse, there was no reading. Parking lights on with no flasher resulted in only one reading of 0.76 on orange wire connected to left rear turn signal & brake light. Parking lights on with the flasher connected also produced a reading at the left rear of 0.71. I'll re-check the connections on the left rear & see what happens. Thanks!
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 2:47 PM |
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Howdy again! Removing one wire at a time did not turn off the parking lights in each instance. Hmmmmm
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-23-2014 @ 8:12 PM |
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Did you take the wires off one at a time and then put each one back on before taking off the next one? If so, there might be two sources of battery. If, on the other hand, you took off all of the wires except the yellow and green ones and the lights were still on, there must be some other way they those two lights are getting battery. A good test would be to start with the parking lights on, remove the yellow and green wires from the switch and see if the parking lights go out. If so, put the meter on the switch where the yellow and green wires came from and then on the yellow and and green wires themselves. Those lights have to be getting battery from somewhere and, if it's from the switch, we need to know where the switch is getting it (e.g., brown and orange wires?).
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-24-2014 @ 3:44 AM |
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I did take one wire off at a time & then put each one back before taking off the next one. Next, I removed each wire one at a time & left it off before removing the next one until all wires were off. The parking lights remained on even after all wires were removed. Now, I have a different situation. After replacing all wires neither the headlights or parking lights will come on.
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| TomO | -- 07-24-2014 @ 7:20 AM |
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Use the wiring diagram for your car to trouble shoot the current problem. Try using a test light to probe the connections when trouble shooting. This will reduce the chances of creating another wiring error. Connect the alligator clip to ground and probe for voltage with the pointed probe. You can slide the probe into the sleeve for the bullet connectors. Check the wiring at the headlight switch to fix your latest problem. Make sure that there is a good connection between the yellow wire with a red tracer coming from the circuit breaker and going to the switch. Then check for voltage at the yellow with black tracer with the headlights on. That wire feeds power to the dimmer switch after it goes through a connector at the firewall. When your headlights and tail lights are working from the switch, you can start working on the connections from the turn signal switch to the parking lights and the brake lights. Tom
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-24-2014 @ 8:45 AM |
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Thanks Tom! I'm working on the problem now. Since my last response, I have noticed my starter will no longer respond even with an almost fully charged battery. So, I'm dead in the water right now. Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-24-2014 @ 9:59 AM |
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Alan: You might have disturbed some of the wires under the dash while working on the turn switch. Be careful of the wire to the starter button. If it has come loose, the starter button won't work and if that wire touches ground, the starter will turn. Be sure the car in is neutral while working on that wire! You might even want to disconnect the battery while you look at the wires to the starter button and the light switch. Also, your test of removing all wires from the turn switch while leaving the parking lights still on indicates those lights are still wired into the headlight circuit somehow.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-24-2014 @ 3:22 PM |
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TomO, Thanks for your comments & suggestions. I will get back on top of this next week. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I'll try to get back on top of this next week. Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-24-2014 @ 3:27 PM |
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Deluxe40, Your continued interest in this situation is very much appreciated. Hopefully, I'll become a little more efficient as we move forward. I'll start my probing again next week. Thanks! Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-29-2014 @ 1:34 PM |
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TomO, There was a loose wire at the ignition which eventually drained the power from the battery. I re-charged the battery & checked all connections. I bypassed the turn switch and reconnected original wiring to the headlights & parking lights which function normally. The wiring at the headlight switch checks out OK. Now it's back to the problem with the turn switch. I also checked the brake light switch with a meter set on ohms & stepping on the brakes increased ohms from left to right so feel it's OK. Thanks/Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-29-2014 @ 1:39 PM |
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Deluxe 40, As you can see, we're back in action. I'm going to try one more time with the wiring on the current turn switch. If I can't get anywhere, I'm going to try a new switch. Thanks/Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-29-2014 @ 7:42 PM |
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We're here and we are interested in how it goes. If I were doing it, I would spend a little time with the ohm meter on the turn switch before I connected it to anything (e.g., is the red wire (brake switch) connected to the orange and brown wires (stop lights) with the switch in the neutral position?)
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-30-2014 @ 10:31 AM |
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Fuse Block Connection: where is the best connection point? Thanks/Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-30-2014 @ 12:15 PM |
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Deluxe40: yes, the red wire (brake switch)is connected to the orange & brown wires (stop lights) with the switch in the neutral position. That being said, if I move the switch up to the right the green light comes on. If I activate the emergency switch the red light comes on. If I move the switch down to the left the green light does not come on. When checking the tail light lamps there is one burned out filament on the left side. The flasher is not working as before. I have maybe a dumb question. If the parking lights can be activated with the switch without signals, why would the same not hold true by changing the power source to the turn signal switch? I would think you should still have the ability to turn on the parking lights without activating the turn signal switch. Thanks/Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 07-30-2014 @ 1:00 PM |
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In your description it sounds like you are connecting two wires to the one stop light wire from the switch. Disconnect all the wires that go to your turn switch. Let's start from the beginning with one circuit at a time. Let's start with the stop light circuit. If you have a stock wire harness you have two wires that go to the stop light switch. One is a constant "hot" and one is "cold" and that goes to the stop lamps. When you step on the brakes the "cold" wire becomes hot and activates the brake lamps. The "cold" wire is usually a green wire. Remove this wire from the switch. Now use your wire diagram from the turn switch and place the red wire from the turn switch onto the brake switch where you removed the green wire. Now you have brake light power to the turn switch. Now go to the back of the car and separate the right side stop lamp wire from the left side wire by unplugging the right lamp wire where it attaches to the rubber junction block. These wires should also be green. Next connect the orange wire from the turn switch to the green wire that you removed from the brake switch. Next you will need to add(splice) some brown wire to the brown wire from the turn switch. The wire must be long enough to run to the rear of the car and connect to the green wire that goes to your right side stop lamp. Now with the turn switch in the neutral position step on the brake to see if you have brake lamps( make sure all the bulbs are in good condition). If you have brake lamps come back to the forum and we will proceed with the next circuit. This message was edited by trjford8 on 7-30-14 @ 1:07 PM
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-30-2014 @ 3:22 PM |
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Triford8: I guess I assume too much with my replies. The red wire does already go to the brake light switch where I removed the green wire. I am a little confused about where to connect the orange wire from your description. However, this is what I did: I connected the orange wire from the turn switch to the green wire hanging from the brake switch & the brown wire from the turn switch to the green wire that goes to the right side stop lamp. We also have brake lamps now. I could not find a rubber junction in the back of the car...only wires. Thanks for your help. With everyone's help this old guy will eventually get the job done.
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| trjford8 | -- 07-30-2014 @ 5:33 PM |
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The rubber junction block is where the right stop lamp plugs into the left stop lamp from the original harness.It's where you separate the right and left stop lamps.Sounds like you are now on the right track. Just make sure that the left and right rear brake light wires are separated from each other. Now go to the front and disconnect the parking lamp wires. I'm assuming you have the stock wire harness and single wire parking lamps. Now connect the yellow wire from the turn switch to the left front parking light wire. Next connect the green wire from the turn switch to the right front parking light wire. Now you will no longer have parking lamps, so if there are bare connecters from the disconnected wires you need to tape the bare connecter, so they cannot short out by touching any metal. Now I need to know if you have a 2 prong or 3 prong flasher. Let me know and then we will make the final connections for power.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 07-31-2014 @ 8:55 AM |
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trjfor8: Both wires are in the proper places with the yellow wire from the turn switch to the left front parking light wire, & the green wire from the turn switch to the right front parking wire. I no longer have parking lamps. I have a 3 prong flasher that calls for a 14 amp fuse. Thanks/Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 07-31-2014 @ 11:57 AM |
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Alan, trjford8 is doing a good job of leading you through the hook-up procedure, so I'll stay out of that. In the meantime, I will try to answer a couple of your miscellaneous questions: 1. A stock '40 doesn't have a "fuse block" as such. It has a circuit breaker for the lights and individual, in-line fuses for accessories like the radio. This circuit breaker is located on an insulated block attached to the firewall high up on the inside above the steering column. The ignition resistor is located next to it. 2. You can't leave the original parking lights attached to their original switch and use them for turn indicators because they are hooked together (in parallel). Therefore, if you turn on one parking light from the turn signal switch, they will both go on along with the tail lights and the dash lights which are also attached in parallel through the headlight switch. So, to regain your parking lights, you need to change their sockets so they accept two-filament bulbs (like the tail/stop bulbs) instead of the single-filament bulbs that came stock. Hope this fills in some background. Stick with trjford8 for the next step in hooking up your turn switch. I'll watch and learn. Glenn
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| trjford8 | -- 07-31-2014 @ 6:23 PM |
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Sporty, you are now down to wiring the flasher and getting power to the flasher. I don't have your turn switch wire diagram, but you need to follow their directions. Your flasher has three posts. Each post has a letter by it. The letters are P,L, and X. Since you have two wires left coming out of the switch your diagram should tell which color wire goes to which lettered post( the P and L posts). The post that is left vacant(you will find that it is the X post) is the post that goes to the main power source with the fused wire. I would recommend that you pull power from the ignition side of the key switch, so as not to accidentally forget to turn off the signal switch and run down the battery.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-01-2014 @ 4:00 AM |
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Glenn, Thanks for the additional info & for sticking with me on this problem. I appreciate it. Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-01-2014 @ 10:17 AM |
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Trjford8, the black wire goes to "L" & the blue wire to "P". The "X" post with the fused wire is attached to the ignition side of the key switch. The signal switch has no power, however power is getting to the flasher. I have tried 2 new flashers which have come from 3 different sources (Ron Francis, C&G and Mac's). Also, I checked the associated flasher socket wires. Thanks/Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 08-01-2014 @ 6:10 PM |
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Sporty, it now sounds like you may have an internal switch problem. We do know that you have power through the switch to operate the brake lights. First try the following; with power to the flasher touch the flasher to a known ground source while operating the switch.The flasher may need to be grounded. Next pull the switch to the left turn position and step on the brakes. Your right brake lamp should come on. Then put the switch in the right turn position and repeat to see if the left brake lamp comes on. Use a test light and check both the L and P posts to see they have have power to them that is getting through to the switch. When you move the lever to the left or right turn position does the indicator light come on? By any chance are you using any LED lights(tail lights) on the car?
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-01-2014 @ 7:33 PM |
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One assumption and two questions: Assumption: You have a 6v flasher. Q1 (for trjford8): Do modern flashers care about polarity? The wire Sporty is hooking to the X terminal on the flasher is really (-) rather than (+) on a positive ground V8 Ford. Q2: If you jump around the flasher and hook the black wire directly to power, do the turn indicators work as expected but without flashing?
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| trjford8 | -- 08-02-2014 @ 7:14 AM |
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Glenn, good questions. To my knowledge flashers do not care about polarity. Q2: they should light up if the switch is functioning as designed. It's possible that Sporty got a bad switch, but it would be extremely rare. Somehow I think we are missing something and it's probably something simple.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-02-2014 @ 11:25 AM |
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Deluxe40: Yes, I do have a 6v flasher calling for a 14amp fuse. (I have also tried 2 others from different vendors). If I jump around the flasher & hook the black wire directly to the power there is no change. However, if I substitute the blue wire, all 3 switch lights come on in succession as they should without flashing. trjford8: Grounding the flasher seemed to make no difference. Also, I am not using any LED lights at all, & the test light shows no power getting through them to the switch. Thanks to both of you. Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-02-2014 @ 11:43 AM |
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Trjford8: the last sentence should state "the test light shows no power getting through the L & P posts to the turn switch".
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| 40cpe | -- 08-02-2014 @ 3:16 PM |
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Use an ohm meter to check between the "X" spade and the "L" spade on the flasher. If it reads "O" or close, the flasher is good. If you have power to the feed wire on your flasher socket and the flasher reads continuity, then the socket is bad.
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-03-2014 @ 8:52 AM |
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I decided I needed to understand flashers better and found a good explanation and diagram by the MGAguru: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et104.htm You won't get power from the X (Battery) terminal to the L (Load) or P (Panel) terminals unless you have the proper load attached to the L terminal (i.e. two bulbs with resistance approximating that of a stop light). If you are still using the stiock '40 parking light bulbs, they might not have the proper resistance to cause the flasher to connect.) Still, connecting the black wire directly to power and switching left or right on the turn switch should cause the corresponding parking/stop lights to go on. Similarly, connecting the blue wire to power should cause the green indicator lights on the turn switch to go on when you operate the switch. If that doesn't happen, the switch becomes the prime suspect.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-03-2014 @ 12:40 PM |
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40cpe: Thanks for the post! Both the flasher & socket each test out. Thanks/Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-03-2014 @ 12:51 PM |
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Deluxe40: thanks for the interesting flasher website. I think I understand what you're driving at. However, even if the parking light bulbs do not have the proper resistance, should not the taillights still flash! Regarding the installation of new dual element sockets for the parking lights, would you have time to send detailed information. Thanks/Alan
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-03-2014 @ 2:38 PM |
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The flasher needs to pass enough current through its heater coil to cause the bimetallic strip to bend and close the contacts. The parking lamp and the stop lamp are wired in parallel, meaning that the current from the flasher L terminal goes directly to both, then through their filaments to ground. If one of the bulbs (e.g., the '40 parking lamp) has a high resistance because it is too small (or burned out), not enough current will flow through it, the heater won't heat up enough, and the parking and stop lamps won't light. That's the theory, anyway. I have not done a conversion of '40 parking lights; I converted a pair of fog lights by changing the bulbs and used those for turn indicators. I know Drake makes a kit of some sort (01A-13200-T in my ancient catalogue) but I expect it will require some effort to remove the stock '40 parking lamp sockets from the headlight buckets. I better defer to someone who has actually done the job for instructions.
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| carcrazy | -- 08-03-2014 @ 6:03 PM |
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I have converted 1940 Ford parking lights to turn signal and parking lights by using the following parts from MAC's: Part No. V13410B - Tail Light Wiring & Socket - 2 req'd Part No. V13465HR6 - Bulb/Double Contact/21-3 CP " " The following parts can be obtained or made from items available at your local hardware or auto parts store: Ideal 6203 - Small Hose Clamps (5/16" to 7/8" Range)-2 Sheet Metal Strips - Steel 1 3/16" X 1/2" X .050" Tk-2 Sheet Metal Screws - 3/16" X 1/2" Long-2 The above light sockets are mounted to the headlight supports by using the above metal strips bent in about a 15 degree angle, sheet metal screws, and above hose clamps. The strips are mounted to the headlight supports by the sheet metal screws. You will need to drill one 3/16" hole in each strip about 3/8" from one end. You will then drill one 1/8" hole in each headlight support in the proper place to allow the new light bulbs to line up under the parking light lens. Because of space constraints you will need to use the small globe ("Hot Rod") bulbs - conventional tail light bulbs are too big to fit. Hope this helps.
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-04-2014 @ 10:32 AM |
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Here's a picture of a '40 turn/parking lamp installed. The socket for the original bulb has been removed. Picture didn't load. I'll try again. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 8-4-14 @ 10:33 AM
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-04-2014 @ 10:34 AM |
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Second try… Picture renamed. Will try again. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 8-4-14 @ 10:36 AM
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| deluxe40 | -- 08-04-2014 @ 10:37 AM |
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Third try...
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-04-2014 @ 11:08 AM |
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carcrazy: thanks for the great information! As you can most likely tell, I have limited knowledge on automotive wiring. The tail light wiring & socket has 2 wires to control the filaments. Since there is only one wire running to each parking light, how do you attach the second wire? Thanks/Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-04-2014 @ 11:12 AM |
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Deluxe40: wow, thanks for the great picture! It makes it look easy. How do you attach the second wire from the tail light socket? Thanks/Alan
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| carcrazy | -- 08-04-2014 @ 12:47 PM |
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The wire to the larger filament gets attached to the turn signal wire coming from the turn signal switch - in my case it was yellow for the left turn signal and green for the right turn signal. The wires to the smaller filaments get attached to the wires for the parking lights.
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| trjford8 | -- 08-04-2014 @ 2:39 PM |
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You can buy the turn signal/parking lamp conversion kit from Bob Drake or from Vintique. Vintique shows them on line at e-Bay.
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-05-2014 @ 3:43 AM |
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carcrazy: thanks for the wiring information! Alan
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| Sporty40/2 | -- 08-05-2014 @ 3:46 AM |
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Trjford8: I'll check out Drake & Vintique. Thanks, Alan
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