| 35gal | -- 02-03-2010 @ 5:30 PM |
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I've got another question. My block has quite a bit of rust in the water jackets. Someone said you could put swimming pool acid in it and it will get rid of the rust. Has anyone did this and can you tell me how it work for you. How long did you leave it in. I know I will have to use baking soda to neutrlize the acid but how long did you leave that in.
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| trjford8 | -- 02-03-2010 @ 8:52 PM |
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I would be a little reluctant to use acid. I would check around to find on of the metal stripping companies that dips fenders, bodies, etc. This would be a better option. I had a friend who did it and it was very sucessful. I might add that some people use white vinegar. It is much safer, but you probably have to leave it in the block longer. This message was edited by trjford8 on 2-4-10 @ 8:39 AM
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| wmsteed | -- 02-04-2010 @ 9:05 AM |
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Swimming pool acid is generally a a type of acid that is not very friendly to anything other that the treatment of pool water to alter the PH factor. Many people in the past have used it as a cheap metal prep to eliminate rust, however, the corrosion started by the fumes did more damage to the surrounding surfaces, and the user, so the cost effectiveness was nil. Have the block hot tanked and save yourself a lot of grief. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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| 35gal | -- 02-04-2010 @ 9:31 AM |
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I cannot have it dipped or hot tanked. The block has babbit bearings and the stuff they use, if it's strong enough to eat rust, will most likely damage the bearings.
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| supereal | -- 02-04-2010 @ 10:04 AM |
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We use acid to demineralize blocks. Pool acid will work, or use the muriatic acid sold in home centers to clean masonry. Block off the hose inlets on the bottom to contain the acid, and install a piece of radiator hose on the top to extend above the head outlets. Dilute the acid if necessary according to the directions on the container, then fill the water jackets above the head level. Allow the solution to sit in the block for several hours, or overnight. Then drain the block and flush well with clean water to be sure all the solution is removed. Always be careful to wear eye protection, and carefully dispose of the solution. If you wish to neutralize the block, mix baking soda in water and use to flush the block when done. Don't get the acid solution in either the radiator or heater core. We use this method on blocks that appear to be heavily encrusted with lime. It does a better job than our alkali hot tank. Be aware that this treatment is for lime and organic deposits, and has little effect on rust. Removing rust and core sand requires complete disassembly of the engine, and poking around in the water jackets to loosen the crud before flushing. If your engine is overheating, it is likely that acid flushing will have only a small effect, probably not worth the effort.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-05-2010 @ 8:48 AM |
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hi if you remove the oil pan, you can remove 4 core hole plugs from the bottom, [ if you have the heads off it makes it even easier,] these are along the outside of the block along the sides,you will see bumps,humps, these is were they are, this way you can clean out for the bottom,and scr*pe and poke around from the top with wire brushes and scr*pers,screw drivers, etc,,I did this on my 37 85hp engine, and a lot of rust was piled up by these, rust from over the years, falls to the bottom,you can vacuum it out or carefully blow it out , USE EYE PROTECTION,!!!!!!!!!!! these core hole plugs are about 1 inch in dia, and are availible at auto stores, and at the same time can clean the oil pan and inspect inside the engine, maybe up grade the oil pump to a hight pressure one,? I would do this first , before other options hope this helps, lets hear how you made out 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 2-5-10 @ 8:50 AM
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| supereal | -- 02-06-2010 @ 12:22 PM |
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If you plan to replace the core plugs, be sure you install replacements with the correct tool to obtain a leak proof seal.
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| 35gal | -- 02-09-2010 @ 4:28 PM |
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Super, how long do you leave the baking soda in to neutralize the block.
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| BrianCT | -- 02-10-2010 @ 7:12 AM |
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Supereal, please explain about the special tool and what it does .
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| dso72 | -- 02-10-2010 @ 8:27 AM |
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Just a friendly reminder, add the acid to the water do no add water to the acid. If you add water to an acid, it will react violently causing the acid to splatter. Be safe and wear the proper protective equipment (gloves, goggles or face shield).
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| supereal | -- 02-10-2010 @ 9:10 AM |
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To answer both questions: A solution of baking soda and water doesn't need to be left in the block for more than a few minutes, then flush well with clean water. The purpose is to prevent adding acid to the coolant when the system is refilled. Most antifreeze becomes acidic anyway, over time. There are test strips available at most parts dealers to check your system periodically. As for setting the core plugs, there is a concave tool, sort of like a chisel, to set them. We actually made ours, but they are not expensive. Be sure that the hole for the plug is free of nicks and debris before you set the plugs, of course.
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