| fla48 | -- 06-06-2014 @ 8:15 PM |
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I have been having an overheating problem with the 59AB engine in my 48. The longer I drive it, the hotter it gets. The first 20 to 30 minutes it runs OK, then the temperature starts creeping up to the point the radiator will eventually boil over. I have noticed the temperature drop in the radiator is only 10 to 15 degrees and sometimes less. I have had the radiator cleaned and rodded. No help! Before I spend big bucks on a new radiator, what should the normal temperature drop be from the inlet to the outlet of the radiator? Frank
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| Old Henry | -- 06-06-2014 @ 10:31 PM |
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It will be interesting to see if anyone will venture to specify such temperature drop as there are so many variables that affect it, car speed, air speed, fan speed, engine (water pump) speed, ambient air temperature and engine temperature. In case you're willing to entertain some other possible causes and solutions to overheating consider these: 1. Plugged radiator. If in doubt take it out and get it cleaned out. 2. Restrictions in water flow that could be caused by too small or malfunctioning thermostat. On the 59A engine my studies and testing have shown that the Stant thermostat has the highest flow. (Don't run without a thermostat. That is not necessary nor healthy for your engine.) Read more here: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113366 The style of water pump may also make a difference. The new ones generally sold by venders have better centrifugal impellers to move more water. Although many swear by Skip's pumps, my studies and research indicate that they only move more water without a thermostat which any pump will. So, I don't recommend using those. Read more here: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106054 3. Poor air flow through the radiator. Make sure the fins are not plugged with excessive bugs etc. Some put bigger fans with more blades, fan shrouds, electric fans (which will only keep up if powered by an alternator). I don't use any of those and don't have an overheating problem. 4. Engine water passages plugged or coated with rust. That can usually be detected by removing the radiator hose from the neck on the head and examine inside. If a lot of rust buildup, treat with Evaporust (not vinegar). Here's why: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123032 Some believe that some blocks may still have casting sand lodged in the water passages that reduce some of the heat exchange needed. If that is so, the only solution to that that I have heard is to dismantle the block and try to dig that stuff out with a stiff wire.
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-06-2014 @ 11:29 PM |
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S common cause of overheating thst is seldom mentioned is a missing radiator splash pan. Alan
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| fla48 | -- 06-07-2014 @ 6:08 AM |
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Thanks for the feedback. For more history, I have run it both with and without a thermostat. No difference. I used the Evaporust scale and rust remover, following the directions, then followed by Evaporust radiator rust remover. The radiator has been reworked and is clean inside and out. As Alan mentioned, the radiator splash pan is in place. I am using Skips water pumps and have noticed no change when they were installed. The engine has about 600 miles on this rebuild, but had the same tendencies to overheat prior to the rebuild.
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| cliftford | -- 06-07-2014 @ 6:45 AM |
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Other factors that might affect temperature are restriction in exhaust system, ignition timing, and lean mixture.
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| supereal | -- 06-07-2014 @ 6:58 AM |
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Any radiator has a given ability to transfer heat from the coolant to the air. As the interior of the unit becomes coated, this ability declines. A lime coating will reduce efficiency by nearly half if it has built up. Years ago, it was common practice to boil the radiator in an acid solution to dissolve the coating. It usually was a temporary fix, at best, even with rodding of the tubes. That is why radiator shops have largely disappeared. Bent or fins that have become detached from the tubes, also are a factor. The only full resolution of the problem is replacement if your heating problem is progressive.
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| TomO | -- 06-09-2014 @ 7:13 AM |
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The temperature drop across my radiator is about 15 degrees at idle, and the only time that I overheat is in stop and go traffic on long periods of idling. I have the best core available, 4 rows with louver fins and almost the same number of fins per inch as the original radiator. Last year, things got much better when I installed a flex fan and changed to 10W-30 oil. I had the flex fan on before and it helped a little when I was using 20w-50. Make sure that you have the correct amount of oil in the system. 5 quarts without a filter and 6 with a filter. The fan has little effect at speeds above 20mph, coolant flow is more important at speeds above 20mph. Skip's pumps deliver a very good flow, if there are no other restrictions. So, if you are overheating at highway speeds, I would install a good pressure cap with 4-6 lbs pressure, to make sure that there are no hotspots. Make sure that the system is really pressurized by listening when you open the cap. Wait until the engine has cooled to about 140 degrees before loosening the cap. If that doesn't fix it, find a good truck radiator shop and have them flow test your radiator. If the radiator checks out OK, drain the cooling system and clean the block. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater and block off the connections, block off the lower hose connections and fill the block with a vinegar solution or a CLR solution and let it set for a couple of days and then flush the block by forcing water through the temp sender opening in each heads. Use your vacuum gauge to check for timing problems or a plugged exhaust. Tom
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| supereal | -- 06-09-2014 @ 10:47 AM |
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There are a few other possibilities. Be sure that the brakes are not dragging. A wheel cylinder piston may be corroded and is stuck in the bore. If the master cylinder is defective, or there is insufficient "free play" in the pedal, the brake pressure will build up over time causing the brakes to drag. This usually goes away after the vehicle sits for awhile. As soon as you can after the car has been run, jack up each wheel and see it turns without interference. Last year we found a left front wheel cylinder that was stuck and caused the overheat to occur when hiway speeds were attempted. If your radiator hoses are old, they may be collapsing as engine speed increases. You can substitute plain water for the antifreeze to see if there is improvementAll antifreeze reduces the transfer of heat.
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| joe b | -- 06-10-2014 @ 11:01 AM |
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When you use plain water as Super suggests you might also try some Wetter Water or other coolant temperature product. It will reduce the engine temperature.
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| Old Henry | -- 06-10-2014 @ 10:42 PM |
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But don't run with plain water too long or you'll really get the rust built up inside the engine.
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| TomO | -- 06-11-2014 @ 7:04 AM |
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Rust inhibitors are available to add to the cooling system while you have water in the radiator. I would also use steam distilled water as it does not contain the minerals in tap water. The calcium in tap water tends to clog up the radiator passages. Tom
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