| 35gal | -- 02-03-2010 @ 3:37 PM |
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Can a flathead V8 engine be bored out to oversize pistons without removing the studs. My machine shop says he can. As we all know, removing studs that have been in there for 70 years, a few are going to break. And this engine has standard pistons and I want to go with .030 oversize because I have a set. With the standard size in, I can get a .010 feeler gauge between piston and wall. So he will be cutting out a little over .020 thousands.
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| doning | -- 02-03-2010 @ 3:51 PM |
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My 1937 221 CID was bored 60 over with the studs still in.
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| MOXIE | -- 02-03-2010 @ 5:25 PM |
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My 35 was bored with the studs still in but they did not have to remove much material. Now that I think about it, I do not know how they got the hole square without puting the boreing machine flat on the top of the block which they could not because the studs were in the way. It runs good though so it must work.
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| 51f1 | -- 02-04-2010 @ 3:44 AM |
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I'd remove the studs and true the top surface (head mating surface). Leave it up to the shop to get the studs out. Richard
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| flathead4rd | -- 02-04-2010 @ 5:39 AM |
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Just trying to think ahead here. What happens if when you put the heads back on and during torquing of the head nuts one of the studs break? Save your self a lot of trouble and replace all the studs with new ones. JMHO
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| alanwoodieman | -- 02-04-2010 @ 7:29 AM |
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remove the studs, not as hard as it looks, lot of penetrating oil, a little heat on the stud only, and use a very good stud remover tool-cannot stress this enough--no vice grips, no pipe wrenches and go slow. Number two-under no circumstance deck the block-not much there for the threads as it is, I also use studs on 49-up blocks, unlees you are going for originality.
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| supereal | -- 02-04-2010 @ 10:24 AM |
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We do lots of boring in our shop, both 90 and 60 degree blocks. The studs have to come out to mount the boring bar and the block brace. Let the shop do that, and always replace the studs. We use the ARP studs with the built in lockers. To produce an acceptable job, take the pistons to the shop so they can match the bore with the correct clearance, and hone the cylinders accordingly. The deck (head surface) should be cleaned up. This is done without taking enough material to affect the threads, and assures head gasket sealing. The heads should also be checked and trued. New studs or head bolts will not break under correct torque. Old ones can and do, from erosion. Torque them in stages until at specs. A good shop will check all stud holes, and clean them with a special tap. Any found that are weak should be Helicoiled. The old cast iron in these engines is fragile, and if you can't or won't have an experienced shop do the work, it is better to wait until you can.
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| 37 Coupe | -- 02-04-2010 @ 6:09 PM |
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Here are a couple things I have learned especially on my last rebuild on a 59AB. I was lucky on this one every stud came out easy with a stud puller,this is the knurled one that most auto parts places sells ,grips close to the bottom so you are not twisting on the total length like you do when trying from top,like with two nuts bac to back. Do not run a sharp tap down through tapped holes to clean out use a threded bolt with a groove cut in it or a known undersize well worn tap,this so you do not remove precious Henry Ford cast iron,and have sealing problems later. DO NOT reuse used studs no matter how good they look or with previous thinking like mine that would beleive nothing would be as good as good ole Henry studs. I went this route last engine reusing the studs that came out easy,two stretched on torquing heads and snapped off,so now I had to get out of block with all new machined bore and pistons and everything to protect. Also my other never do again I had sprayed gaskets with copper gasket spray/sealer.,ruined new gasket removing head, and now had a real mess. Bought beautifull set of studs from Nacewicz,all 48,got other glued down head off with ruined gasket.Put new gaskets back on with grease,everything fine run for last three years. Another thing you do not want to do and I knew this one but just last week my buddy didn't beleive me,do not even try to get a busted stud out with an EZout,weld a nut on if you can,he wouldn't listen to me now he has a couple hardened EZ outs broken in studs,no drilling now he needs an EDM machine used to remove broken taps.
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| supereal | -- 02-06-2010 @ 12:27 PM |
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Removing broken easy-outs requires a special, very expensive carbide bit and a jig to center the bit. We just did one of those when a "quicky lube" place broke off a belt tensioner bolt in an aluminum block, then proceeded to break off an easy-out. The tab for the job came to almost two hundred bucks, but it was cheaper than buying a new engine!
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