| 6lucky13 | -- 05-07-2014 @ 1:41 PM |
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What is an appropriate and safe way to support a 1937 engine while in the car for removing the water pumps? I plan on having them rebuilt. Thanks…Kerry
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| ken ct. | -- 05-07-2014 @ 4:21 PM |
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A pair of jack stands under the front axle and a bottle jack lifting up the engine w/a 2x6 under the oil pan,this shouldn't be rocket science only common sense. ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-07-2014 @ 6:25 PM |
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Ken, you could have left off the mean spirited comment. Alan
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| MICHV8 | -- 05-08-2014 @ 6:30 AM |
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Agreed. The last person to possess all existing knowledge was the great philosopher Leibniz (who created calculus at the same time as Newton). So, I assume there are many things Kerry knows that ken ct. doesn't
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| joe b | -- 05-08-2014 @ 6:32 AM |
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I agree. So many of us like to ask these questions because usually there is more than one way to skin a cat.
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| oldford2 | -- 05-08-2014 @ 12:53 PM |
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Just wondering why you have to jack up the front and put stands under the axle? My floor jack with a block of wood on it slides right under to lift the engine. Then the car is low enough to reach down and change the pump and wrestle those short hoses off and on. John This message was edited by oldford2 on 5-8-14 @ 12:55 PM
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| CharlieStephens | -- 05-08-2014 @ 1:00 PM |
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Ken, Let's give him the benefit of the doubt. Maybe he was hoping to be able to roll the car around the garage while the pumps were being rebuilt. Charlie Stephens
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| Stroker | -- 05-08-2014 @ 2:10 PM |
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6lucky13: Always a good idea to "pad" the jack under the oil pan with a 2x6,2x8. One thought I'd like to add however is that unless you have done this before, you might not know about the "hidden" capscrew inside the hose nipple. This often has a eroded hex head due to contact with the coolant, which can make removal with an 12-point socket "iffy". Use a 6-point on this bolt.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-08-2014 @ 2:29 PM |
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John, you're absolutely right. Working from the topside is easier in my opinion. It's an even bet that Ken has never changed out water pumps himself anyway. Alan
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| MICHV8 | -- 05-09-2014 @ 6:07 AM |
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One valuable trick (I think Alan first suggested this one) is to use short lengths of all thread to hold the pumps in position during the install...
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| 1932BB | -- 05-09-2014 @ 8:37 AM |
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Some if not all hydraulic jacks leak down over time. Might be good to use wood blocks under the oil pan.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-09-2014 @ 9:22 AM |
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Sorry it wasen't ment as you stated , just gearhead common sense.Some of you guys read too much into these kind of posts here and on the FB. Sorry if I offended YOU with it. ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-09-2014 @ 9:47 AM |
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mitchv8, I may have been first with that advice here, but it's been used forever on water pumps, distributors, heads, bell housings, everywhere that fitment can benefit from a temporary locating pin. kenct, Thank you for that. I just hope 6lucky13 sees your apology. "Some of us guys" can get crotchety at times too. Alan
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 05-09-2014 @ 10:35 AM |
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Stroker brings up a good point. Some replacement pumps do not include hardware, so make sure you use a stainless steel bolt and a lot of anti-sieze when you replace the pumps.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-09-2014 @ 1:26 PM |
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Alan I have a 36 so I don't even need support engine on a W/P change. He asked how to support engine on a later W/P-M/M change I figured that would be the I would do it. Yea I guess it could be done w/o lifting the frt. end off the ground. ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-09-2014 @ 2:21 PM |
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Ken, That's good! On another post, advice was given to jack up the whole engine and remove the tranny mounts as well! These multiple responses to questions gives a guy lots of choices, don't they? Alan
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| ken ct. | -- 05-09-2014 @ 4:25 PM |
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You got it Alan,sometimes too many choices to do the same thing,it gets confusing to newbies I guess. have a nice day. ken ct.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-09-2014 @ 6:02 PM |
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One fella posted on here or FB that he uses a NY style telephone book on top of the 2x6 as sort of a cushion against the pan,sounds like a good idea and a good way to repurpose,recycle old phone books. lol ken ct.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-09-2014 @ 7:21 PM |
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Ken, I hope you were able to finish the job before you had to cadge that phone book to do that other thing? Alan
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| ken ct. | -- 05-10-2014 @ 12:06 AM |
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Sorry don't understand your reply LOL. ken ct.
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| Stroker | -- 05-10-2014 @ 8:12 AM |
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Ken: Poor old Alan lives out west where they don't have enough water to flush with. He uses a Bay Area phone book in his outhouse because the Sear's catalogs have gotten too thin, and the glossy paper makes it hard to do a good job.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-10-2014 @ 9:40 AM |
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Ken, Dan speaks from experience, as he used to live in the Land of Glossy Paper, (AKA Southern California). Up here in Northern California, we've always preferred JC Whitney catalogs. Alan
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| supereal | -- 05-10-2014 @ 7:19 PM |
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To replace the pumps you need only to raise the front of the engine enough to remove the rubber "donut" from under the foot of the pump. It is a good time to replace the rubber parts while you are at it, as most have long lost their ability to cushion. Cinch the mount bolts just enough to cause the rubber to bulge. Usually new rubber insulators, properly tightened, reduce most clutch shudder.. Installing the motor mount bolts doesn't require jacking up the whole car. As a helper inserts the bolt from the bottom, the nut can be installed. Don't forget to put cotter pin thru the top of the bolt after adjustment. This message was edited by supereal on 5-10-14 @ 7:21 PM
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| 6lucky13 | -- 05-11-2014 @ 3:51 PM |
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Thanks for all the helpful suggestions (and the dry humor) for removing the water pumps. Actually thought I would need an engine lift to support the engine but the jack, wood blocks, and padding makes good sense (but maybe its not all that common). Kerry
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