| murphy1936 | -- 05-04-2014 @ 8:58 PM |
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Looking for advice for touring car. Our 1941 might need additional help to cool her down. advice appreciated. Wiring instructions would be helpful and your experience in using electric fan for additional help in keeping engine in cool condition. Thanks John Super Deluxe 41
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-04-2014 @ 10:43 PM |
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Murphy, an electric fan is not a fix to the overheating, it is simply an attempt to control the damage caused by the overheating. In fact, an electric fan causes the engine to work harder, thereby introducing additional heat to the system. I don't mean to imply that overheating is not a common problem, because it certainly is a problem that is common to the flathead engine. You would do well by working with the sources of overheating and the more traditional means of cooling: Send out the radiator for cleaning & rodding out as required. Install a 4 lb pressure cap. Verify that all air baffles are in place to the sides, bottom, and top of the radiator. Run straight white vinegar in your engine for a full week. Remove the water pumps and backflush while fishing out casting sand with a coat hanger. Install high flow water pumps. Remove the thermostats. Address possible ignition timing issues. Address possible exhaust blockage. Insure that the engine oil capacity is never low. Insure that the carburetor is adjusted properly. That's a long list, but every item on that list will still be waiting for you if you ignore them and instead install that elecric fan. Alan
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| supereal | -- 05-05-2014 @ 5:58 PM |
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We install electric fans on street rods without space for the belt driven stock vehicle. They require a high output alternator and 12 volt system for reliable operation. Demand is too high for six volts. Most electric fans are mounted in front of the radiator, which is a problem with the limited space in older vehicles, and may affect air flow. Most. Often, overheating is due to a tired radiator. We prefer to replace rather than repair the radiator. It is expensive, but will restore the reliability necessary to have fun with your car.
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| murphy1936 | -- 05-05-2014 @ 9:50 PM |
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Thank you for advice on electric fans.vs dealing with why it occurs. Seems more practical to clean ou radiator run it and see where we go. As I said I might have a problem. Will test this out with a long drive and note temperatures and day temp when testing. On using vinegar , do you use all white vinegar and fill it up.?? How far should you drive with it in?? Also, have aluminum heads , what will vinegar do to aluminum?? Thanks for the help, John Super Deluxe 41
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-05-2014 @ 10:26 PM |
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Murphy, I'll retract my advice regarding white vinegar. I recalled reading an independant test of a product by the name of Evapo Rust. The test was conducted in conjunction with the same test using white vinegar, and the Evapo rust came out best of the two. I just now googled it, and it looks like it is available from multiple vendors. Check it out yourself. Alan
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| TomO | -- 05-06-2014 @ 6:14 AM |
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Murphy, Before you add any snakeoil to your car, make sure that you have a problem and define when the problem happens. The fan in your car really only makes a difference at slow speeds. At speeds above the airflow through the radiator is fast enough to remove the heat from the coolant. If you car will run in the normal zone at speeds up to and including highway speeds, the coolant flow is probably sufficient, and you do not need to do anything. If it does overheat at speeds, you will have to make sure that the radiator and block are clean, your water pumps are good and that the engine and drive train are all in good condition. Tom
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| supereal | -- 05-06-2014 @ 9:15 AM |
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A lime coating no thicker than paint can reduce cooling efficiency as much as forty percent when the radiator and block become affected. When I worked for a Ford dealer, the radiator shop had two full time employees that boiled and tested the units. Even so, more often than not, any improvement was temporary. That is why the radiator shops have mostly disappeared. Most shops, such as ours, don't try to fix them. We do boil the blocks before rebuilding to reduce the lime coating. When I bought my '47, it would boil before I got around the block. The cure was a new radiator, after consideration of all other alternatives. Since then, no problems, and we can run in any heat with the gauge never rising above mid range. Running cleaning solution is mostly ineffective in cleaning the block without disassembly.
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| supereal | -- 05-06-2014 @ 9:16 AM |
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A lime coating no thicker than paint can reduce cooling efficiency as much as forty percent when the radiator and block become affected. When I worked for a Ford dealer, the radiator shop had two full time employees that boiled and tested the units. Even so, more often than not, any improvement was temporary. That is why the radiator shops have mostly disappeared. Most shops, such as ours, don't try to fix them. We do boil the blocks before rebuilding to reduce the lime coating. When I bought my '47, it would boil before I got around the block. The cure was a new radiator, after consideration of all other alternatives. Since then, no problems, and we can run in any heat with the gauge never rising above mid range. Running cleaning solution is mostly ineffective in cleaning the block without disassembly.
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| murphy1936 | -- 05-07-2014 @ 8:56 PM |
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Thanks to all for your responses. Went for 30 mile drive, outdoor tem was 61, temp was not at middle line on gauge so I assume in hotter outdoor temps she should be at norm? Thanks for suggestions Super Deluxe 41
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