| 36fordor | -- 02-28-2014 @ 3:44 AM |
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Am seriously considering driving my 36 Ford Fordor from Indy area to L.A. avoiding Interstates & would welcome any comments or suggestions. No particular time constraints late summer or early fall. Car is an older frame off restoration, good condition with mechanical brakes & 6 volt. What options would I have to get more out of the headlamps? Have done this trip some years ago on what I could find of Route 66 on bike (as in HD). Thank you. This message was edited by 36fordor on 2-28-14 @ 3:46 AM
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| TomO | -- 02-28-2014 @ 9:41 AM |
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Make sure that you are getting at least 6 volts to the bulbs. Connect a volt meter between the Neg terminal of the battery to the bulb connection and turn on the lights. If you the meter reads more than .3 volts, you have excessive resistance in the circuit. Clean all connections, including the light switch and coat them with a light coat of Vaseline. Tom
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| 1932BB | -- 02-28-2014 @ 10:39 AM |
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Run a dedicated ground wire from the battery to each headlight, temporary or permanent, and see if it makes a difference in brightness.
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| cliftford | -- 02-28-2014 @ 4:47 PM |
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If you have the 3 brush generator with a cutout on top, I'd check the output before you leave. If it is set for occasional short trips, it may be set too high for extended highway driving,you may want to set it at a lower rate.
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| ford38v8 | -- 02-28-2014 @ 5:22 PM |
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All of the above, and a couple more tips: The stock headlight bulb is 32-32 cp. Hard to find, but get the optional 50-32 cp bulbs. Much brighter! Also, something often overlooked, remove your lenses and wash them with dishsoap. They are clean on the outside, but have many years worth of smog and road grime on the inside. Alan
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| cliftford | -- 02-28-2014 @ 5:59 PM |
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One other thing: I'm assuming your car is in tip top condition. Even so I would carry a spare fuel pump. They have been kinown to fail at the most in-oppertune times, and nearly impossible to find, unless you are near a large city
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| supereal | -- 03-01-2014 @ 1:31 PM |
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As for headlights, I installed a set of relays to provide a direct connection to the battery. It restored full brightness. The voltage drop from the switch thru the dimmer, alone, is much of the problem, as is the too small wiring. If anyone is interested, I'll post the full information. It doesn't require modification of the stock harness. If I was planning such a long distance trip, I'd also install a bright LED "third stoplight" bar. Usually, on long trips the biggest danger is from other drivers who don't appreciate the natural limitations of our old cars.
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| joe b | -- 03-01-2014 @ 2:27 PM |
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Super, what will work for a '41 Ford?. I ran ground wires and it helped some but lights are still dim. If it weren't for the edge striping on the roads I would not drive at night. I installed a third brake light per your suggestion some time back. I feel much more comfortable. Also, please post the info in this discussion as I have a friend that has a '36 that can surely use it.
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| carcrazy | -- 03-01-2014 @ 2:48 PM |
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In addition to carrying a spare fuel pump, I would also carry a spare distributor that has been set up on a machine with all new American made parts, a spare ignition condenser (capacitor), spare coil, and fan belt. While on the road keep an eye on the temperature gauge and stop as soon as you encounter extreme overheating. I have experienced thermostats that failed in the closed position. Also be sure to carry a fully functional spare tire and wheel assembly. Most of the problems that I have encountered on long trips in old Fords have been tire related. Of course a jack and the tools required to change the items listed should also be carried.
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| supereal | -- 03-01-2014 @ 2:55 PM |
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OK, Joe. I'll dig it out. I used a pair of 6 volt starter solenoids as relays, as they can handle the load. Each solenoid is fed directly from the battery via a connection at the starter solenoid, and each is triggered by the original headlight wiring, allowing the original wiring to serve as the control, applying full voltage to the lamps. I always run good grounds to all lights, but the problem with headlights is that the loss, as pointed out earlier, is on the "hot" side. I have halogen headlights in my '47, and because of their current draw, were dimmer than the originals until I added the relays. Now, they are as bright as modern cars. The setup works on all years.
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| supereal | -- 03-01-2014 @ 3:23 PM |
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I think the attached will show how I converted the headlights to direct battery feed. The solenoids came from NAPA. You need the type with two small terminals. I mounted the relay panel on the hood side of the left inner fender near the front to allow easy access to the headlight connections. I made "bullet" connectors to the relays so they could be plugged into the original harness, and removed if desired. Use at least 12 gauge wire betweed the relay input and the battery post on the starter solenoid to assure plenty of power. You can fuse that wire with at least a 50 amp fuse, but I didn't, as I have a main battery cutoff switch. I believe that the diagram is clear, but if you have any quesions, let me know.
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| joe b | -- 03-02-2014 @ 12:39 PM |
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Thanks much Super. A good spring project (if it ever gets here in Ohio) I understand what you did and I will be very happy to not have to strike a match to see if my headlights are on!
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| TomO | -- 03-03-2014 @ 8:28 AM |
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The light switch and the dimmer switch are common sources of excessive resistance in the cars of the 40's. Tom
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-03-2014 @ 7:11 PM |
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Joe, TomO's post highlights the need for Supereal's relay setup, which uses these two sources only to pull in the relays, not to power the lights. Alan
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| TomO | -- 03-05-2014 @ 10:42 AM |
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Joe, Supereal's relay solution delivers the correct voltage to the bulbs to increase brightness. It also very desirable if you have halogen lights. It also requires that the original connections be free from corrosion. Corroded connections get hot and can cause the wires to burn the insulation leading to bare wires. If you system is in good shape, your bulbs will have the voltage without the need for extra relays. Use your voltmeter to check the voltage drop to the bulbs and repair any corroded connections. Tom
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