| ab4875 | -- 01-22-2014 @ 8:17 PM |
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I'm in the process of rebuilding my distributor. I've pulled it apart about 80%. Not quite sure how far to go. There was a grub screw in the end of the shaft which had been staked. I removed this but I'm not sure what its purpose is? It looks like it is a blind hole. Also should there be an o-ring where the distributor housing lines up with the vacuum port on the timing cover? More pictures to follow
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| ab4875 | -- 01-22-2014 @ 8:18 PM |
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Should I put an o-ring here to seal the vacuum port? The slot looks quite deep once I cleaned it up.
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| ab4875 | -- 01-22-2014 @ 8:20 PM |
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Is it worth taking this shaft apart or just clean it as is?
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| JM | -- 01-23-2014 @ 10:48 AM |
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My '42 crab and '45-'48 rabbit ear cap distributors all have an o-ring on the back of the housing at that vacuum port. Yours appears to be blocked off with a slotted head set screw or grub screw as you call them. Edit: after enlarging your picture, I believe what I thought might be a set screw in the vacuum port is probably what's left of the rubber o-ring/gasket. Not sure exactly why there is a set screw in the center of the drive tangs but maybe this is there to seal up a threaded hole that was ounce used to hold a spacer adaptor in place.. You might want to consider posting these same questions and pictures over on the Fordbarn. There are several members there who rebuild these distributors as a service to the hobby and they are quite knowledgeable on how they should be rebuilt. There is also a post on FB that was done in the last year by Bubbas Ignition that gives a detailed writeup with pictures on how to rebuild this type of distributor. Would be worth the time to go there and do a search for that post to read up on this. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98214&highlight=crab http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11050&highlight=crab John This message was edited by JM on 1-23-14 @ 9:17 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 01-23-2014 @ 10:52 AM |
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Inside the shaft and under the "grub" screw is a felt wick. Take needle nose pliers and pull it out soak it and clean it, dry it and then soak it in MMO and replace. Note the small hole in the side of the other end, for lube to upper bushing. The vacuum port gets a special seal 1GA-12134. The shaft should come apart by removing the small clip rings, best to disassemble and remove crud. Make sure rollers are free to rotate and weights are free on their shafts and springs are not damaged.
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| supereal | -- 01-23-2014 @ 1:12 PM |
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Be sure to check the shaft and both bushings before you reassemble the distributor. Many of the units that come to our shop need replacement of these items. Any slack will show on the machine as an unstable dwell reading when we strobe it. Be sure the flat springs in the weight section are not bent or broken, and that the new points are of good quality. Many are not.
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| ab4875 | -- 01-24-2014 @ 4:27 AM |
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@ 40 Coupe - what is MMO? @ supereal - what should I look for in new points? I bought some from one of the US suppliers a week or so back and they look ok to my untrained eyes. From memory country of origin on the bag was China or Taiwan. I'm going to order some other parts from Joblot in New York next week and could add some points to the order if they have a better quality item.
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| TomO | -- 01-24-2014 @ 7:25 AM |
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If the points don't have the brass bushing in the pivot hole, return them to the supplier. Check the spring tension after installing the points, many of the repro points do not have enough spring tension to keep the pints from floating, others have so much that the rubbing block wears out in a very short time. Tension should be between 20-24 oz. Tom
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| supereal | -- 01-24-2014 @ 7:29 AM |
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Look at the threads in the connector. They should be sharp and fully formed. Examine the insulator to be sure the points are not shorted. Are the contact surfaces making a complete joint when closed? It isn't possible to check spring tension without a scale, and weak springs have been a problem. Be sure the rubbing block is of solid material. Poor quality point sets have become an epidemic problem. We buy ours from C&G. Have your distributor checked and set up on a machine, if possible, so they can be strobed to eliminate bounce. High quality points properly installed should run trouble free for years of service.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 01-25-2014 @ 4:49 AM |
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MMO is "Marvel Mystery Oil" In the red plastic bottle on Wal-Mart shelf. NAPA has good points, rotor, condenser and the Crab cap. I believe their points do not have the bushings any more but they work well. Their condensers hold up to the engine heat. Check out NAPA web site. Make sure the point plate snap ring seats properly and the secondary coil contact is clean and contacts the proper contact location on the point plate. After replacing parts and before installing the distributor rotate it by hand make sure the rotor does not hit one or more of the cap terminals, if it does the terminal can be cut back slightly so the rotor clears.
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