| murphy1936 | -- 01-16-2014 @ 6:08 PM |
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On 1941 super deluxe, is there more than one oil filter that can be had? Will need part numbers . Napa etc can order the C4P AT 9 dollars each a pop . If there. Is an over counter replacement, it would be nice. Thks John Super Deluxe 41
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| cliftford | -- 01-16-2014 @ 6:45 PM |
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I've had the same problem with my '48 ford. Since there isn't much call for this type filter any more, I think we are going to have to bite the bullet and pay the price. Mac's price for this filter is $11.50. Another option would be to convert to a full flow system,which is not cheap but does a better job.
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| murphy1936 | -- 01-16-2014 @ 9:26 PM |
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Thanks Cliiford what's involved in full flow? Who sells kit? John Super Deluxe 41
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| cliftford | -- 01-17-2014 @ 5:37 AM |
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contact the ford v8 techno scource on line. The subject is discussed there. It would require dis assembling and/or rebuilding your engine. Personally, unless you are putting lots of highway on the car, I would stay with the origional system. Gene
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| juergen | -- 01-17-2014 @ 7:06 AM |
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www.Rockauto.com has 3 different types listed from $6 to $11 and their shipping is usually quite reasonable.
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| carcrazy | -- 01-17-2014 @ 7:13 AM |
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From my personal experience I would recommend staying with the stock oil filtration system on the Flathead V-8. When I had a 1940 Ford 85HP engine converted to a "full flow" oil filtration system with the later high volume 80 psi oil pump the oil consumption went to 200 miles per quart. The excess oil pressure to the rear main bearing was forcing oil past the rear seal.
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| supereal | -- 01-17-2014 @ 3:59 PM |
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I use the NAPA oilfilter, type 1006. They usually have them in stock, as they fit such applications as Ford tractors. I don't recall the price we pay, but we do get a discount when we buy half a dozen at a time. For most old car owners, the cost of converting to full flow with a spin on filter is hardly worth the time and money. Use a good grade of detergent type oil, and change it and the filter, at least twice a driving season.
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| murphy1936 | -- 01-18-2014 @ 4:38 PM |
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Will stick with original I was just interested because on Model A Fords it's simple. Thanks for all the advice especially on the availability of perhaps the Napa replacement if less costly and does a decent job. I know it does some good otherwise why did Henry put it on the cars. Thks again John Super Deluxe 41
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| kubes40 | -- 01-18-2014 @ 5:02 PM |
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John, It does "some" good albeit not much. The system ol' Henry put on these cars was not a great design. Sure, probably better than NO filter. Still, one must understand that oils and fuels back then were FILTHY compared to today's offerings. The oils of yesteryear did not have additives that kept contaminants in suspension. Most of the stuff you wanted to filter out back then ended up in the bottom of the pan (you hoped) or in the valve chamber area. The fuels back then, full of lead, only added to the contaminants that were put through the engines. Today, the oils are worlds apart in quality. The fuels too have evolved so as to barely dirty an engine. My advice? Don;t worry too much whether you have a filter or not. Keep the oil clean and enjoy your car.
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| Drbrown | -- 01-18-2014 @ 8:31 PM |
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Each of us have our own preferences about the matter of whether or not to filter oil and what kind and grade of oil to use. I respect everyone's opinions about these things. I just wanted to chime in and offer that here's one guy who does not filter his oil. I'm driving a '47 Ford with a '48 100 hp in it with 35,000 miles on its rebuild. It has an 80 lb pump and I use detergent 10w-30w winter and summer here in the northeast. Oil pressure cold at idle is 70 lbs; 20-25 lbs when hot at idle; 50-60 lbs on the highway. It uses very little oil and I change it about every 2000 miles. Good vacumn and compression readings and the valves don't seem to be sticking and hopefully the rings are not gumming-up. So far so good. These flatties are great. This message was edited by Drbrown on 1-18-14 @ 8:33 PM
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