| Mustangman | -- 01-13-2014 @ 1:44 PM |
|
Hi, I would like to get some information on the installation of the running board covers. I am not sure how they are installed, ie: with the attachment bolts or are they glued on and also attached with the mounting bolts? The boards are original and they look like there was an adhesive under the rubber. Thanks, Skip
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 01-13-2014 @ 5:40 PM |
|
Your boards may be authentic but if the rubber was glued on, it had been replaced. Originally the rubber was vulcanized directly to the metal. If you have Drakes covers, they get glued on to the metal boards. I would strongly suggest you read the directions for installation and follow them carefully. The covers are "okay" if you are looking to save some cash. You must be very careful not to stretch them when installing or they will not fit nor look good. CLEAN boards are a must. That means BARE metal. GOOD glue is another MUST. I prefer 3M Rubber adhesive. It's about $50 a quart but a very good product. Once your boards are clean, you'll note "dips" in the metal directly over the braces (beneath). Those "dips" MUST be leveled out. Do NOT use body filler.
|
|
| Mustangman | -- 01-14-2014 @ 6:55 AM |
|
Thanks, I had the boards sand blasted and power coated due the moisture condition they sit in. I think the covers were original. I thought when I removed the old hard rubber there was glue on the boards. I didn't realize they were vulcanized on. When I picked up the covers, there were no instructions with them. Again, thanks.
|
|
| 40guy | -- 01-14-2014 @ 8:19 AM |
|
Check this guy out: Hunley Acuff running boards. Roseville,GA. 706-866-4875. His are the best I've seen. You won't save any money but again, great work.
|
|
| TomO | -- 01-14-2014 @ 9:18 AM |
|
I agree with 40guy on Hunley Acuff. I had him do my running boards and am completely satisfied with his work. The covers available for the 40 Mercury are much thinner than the original ones, Mr Acuff's covers are exactly like the original in looks. He uses a urethane instead of the original rubber, and they are vulcanized onto your boards. The other advantage is that you don't have to fill in any dips or waves in your original boards. Tom
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 01-15-2014 @ 6:21 AM |
|
No question about it, if having the boards done by Hunley is within your budget, go for it. He does stunning work. I have two "extra" sets by him sitting here for future projects. Simply beautiful.
|
|
| Mustangman | -- 01-19-2014 @ 1:18 PM |
|
You mentioned about a 3M glue in a quart can. Do you have the part number that is on the can? There are so many different glues to use and it would be helpful to have the number off the can so I can order it. Thanks for all the help. Can't wait to see what they look like on the car.
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 01-20-2014 @ 7:07 AM |
|
Mustangman, The product I use is fairly costly but WORKS. This is one of those places that in my opinion you do not want to skimp. The 3M item number is 1300. Grainger has it. their number is 5E129. Be certain to clean the rubber very well. I use lacquer thinner. Also, scuff it with steel wool.
|
|
| Mustangman | -- 01-20-2014 @ 1:12 PM |
|
Thanks a lot, really appreciate your help.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=6913 |