| Oldad | -- 01-03-2014 @ 6:53 PM |
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Help! I need to remove the shock links on my '37 Ford Fordor. I can remove the nuts holding the links in place but the tapered fasteners refuse to budge from the shock absorber arm and the spring mount.
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| ford38v8 | -- 01-03-2014 @ 7:41 PM |
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I don't know how others do it, but i'm lucky to have a KRW tool for the job. You might try a small pickle fork type of tool, but with no solid backing, that's not too good either. Beginning in '39, it becomes even more difficult, as the threaded bolt was shortened for clearance on the Mercury, with the nut only half thickness also. For this reason, my KRW tool won't work on those modern cars! Alan
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| Oldad | -- 01-03-2014 @ 8:36 PM |
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Thanks Alan, I have a set of three wedge forks made for drag links and ball joints on the steering linkage but even the smallest is larger than ball on the shock link. I have considered borrowing a torch and heating the area around the fastener.
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| ford38v8 | -- 01-03-2014 @ 9:28 PM |
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You may have success by improvising a press like the KRW tool I mentioned above. The key to success in this tool is the early longer stud, which won't work with the later short stud. Alan
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| deuce_roadster | -- 01-03-2014 @ 10:02 PM |
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A method that has worked for me on many different things involving a taper is to hold something heavy on one side of the part with the tapered hole, and hit the opposite side with a good sized ball peen hammer. I have removed 40 Ford shock links this way. The key is having enough room to back the part up and hit the other side. This for a nanosecond egg shapes the hole and moves the taper out a tiny bit and it becomes loose. This works on Tie rod ends when you rap on the sides of the spindle arms too. If you back it up properly there isn't really any damage to anything. Don't know if you have room on a 37 to do this but if so you might try that.
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| 42wagon | -- 01-04-2014 @ 3:38 AM |
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I improvised this for removing the shock arms on a 42. I made a horse shoe shaped piece out of 3/16 steel wide enough to get some purchase on and slipped it behind the arm then either using a cold chisel or the smallest wedge fork (don't remember which)I was able to free up the tapered joints.
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| zeker8 | -- 01-04-2014 @ 12:05 PM |
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I used a tie rod end puller, came off ebay less than $30, worked great. Zeke This message was edited by zeker8 on 1-4-14 @ 12:06 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 01-04-2014 @ 12:46 PM |
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You may also be able to use a Pitman arm puller which is available from O'Rielly Auto Parts for about $15. The opening is about 1 3/8" on the back of the puller. If the width of your shock link is less than this dimension, you will have to use an adapter to bridge the gap. I used a flat washer with 7/8" ID and 2 1/4" OD that I cut into a "U" shape to fit between the puller and the part to be pulled off.
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| Ben38 | -- 01-04-2014 @ 2:26 PM |
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I used a small gear puller on my '38. Maybe I was lucky but it worked for me
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| supereal | -- 01-04-2014 @ 7:35 PM |
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Removing any tapered part is a real chore. Ask anyone who tackled the front spring perches. A generous application of heat usually helps to shake them loose.
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| drkbp | -- 01-05-2014 @ 10:13 AM |
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I got a NOS set of fronts & arms for my '35 last week on ebay and I was thinking of using the bolt type links. Does anyone have pros or cons to those type of links? I have always used the standard 3" links. However, with the bolt together you can replace the rubber bushings and the tapered studs we are discussing on this thread. I don't know if you can replace the bushings on the crimp type, never tried it as the links are rather easy to get. Ken in Texas
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| Oldad | -- 01-05-2014 @ 12:56 PM |
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Thanks guys! I finally got it apart with brute force and awkwardness, a 3 lb and a 5 lb hammer. If I had to do this on a regular basis I would have a tool built for the job.
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