| haysmo | -- 12-19-2013 @ 10:57 AM |
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I see where Mac's sells it, but I'm in Calif and it seems silly to ship oil from NY. Also, should I run anti-freeze in my stock 36? This message was edited by haysmo on 12-19-13 @ 11:00 AM
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| Old Henry | -- 12-19-2013 @ 11:30 AM |
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Seems a strange question unless I'm missing something. As far as I know all oil is detergent oil unless it says that it's non-detergent. Anyone know any different? So, get it at your closest auto parts store or gas station. Read more here: http://www.ehow.com/about_6761438_detergent-vs_-non_detergent-motor-oil.html As far as antifreeze goes, there are more reasons to run it than not run it in my opinion. Read more here: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122565 Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) This message was edited by Old Henry on 12-19-13 @ 11:32 AM
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-19-2013 @ 11:36 AM |
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Detergent engine oil? You can buy that stuff in most grocery stores. You must mean something else? Antifreeze in California? If you park in an enclosed garage, and live near sea level, antifreeze can be more trouble than its worth. However, you do need more than tap water: Distilled water is best, so you don't get the calcium deposits from tap water, and you need a rust inhibitor additive. Alan
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| haysmo | -- 12-19-2013 @ 11:51 AM |
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Sorry, I meant non- detergent
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| Old Henry | -- 12-19-2013 @ 12:10 PM |
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Non-detergent oil is readily available in most auto part stores such as NAPA or AutoZone. Just look for the words "Non-Detergent" on the container. Just curious. Why are you wanting to use non-detergent oil? Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
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| haysmo | -- 12-19-2013 @ 12:23 PM |
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I was told by a couple of old pro's to use non-detergent in my stock 36. I just bought it and I'm not sure what the previous owner might have used.
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-19-2013 @ 12:47 PM |
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The most important thing to remember about motor oil today is first, get a good quality oil, and second, get a multi-grade oil. The Multi-Grade oils will lubricate your engine properly at the cold start, while a single grade will not. I don't think non detergent oil is available in multi grade. If that's not enough to convince you to use non detergent, then know that despite the sky is falling rants about detergent oil breaking sludge away to clog oil passages, nobody has ever experienced that phenomenon from simply changing from one type to the other. Know also that some will tell you to use oil additives, in particular to use a zinc additive, which will change nothing but the thickness of your wallet. Zinc additives are needed for some high compression engines, but certainly not your stock 1936 Ford engine. Save your money otherwise spent on additives, and put it toward frequent oil changes and you'll be much better off. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 12-19-13 @ 12:50 PM
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| Old Henry | -- 12-19-2013 @ 1:29 PM |
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The main benefit of detergent oil is not to clean sludge that may already be in the engine, but to keep the sludge from developing in the first place. It does that by suspending the sludge producing particles in the oil to drain out with the oil rather than settling on the bottom of the oil pan or sticking to metal parts. It looks darker and dirtier because it's doing it's job. If you want cleaner looking oil that lets the pollutants just accumulate on the bottom of the engine and metal parts, go for non-detergent. But, it's an illusion. That "clean" oil is creating a dirty engine. Read more here: http://www.ehow.com/about_6761438_detergent-vs_-non_detergent-motor-oil.html Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
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| 51f1 | -- 12-24-2013 @ 12:24 PM |
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Good answer. Richard
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| supereal | -- 12-24-2013 @ 1:10 PM |
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The only place to put non detergent oil is in your oil can, not your engine. Contrary to the myth about causing deposits to clog the system, it keeps contaminents in suspension until they can be filtered. If you don't have a filter, just shorten your drain periods. We do use a special break in oil in our rebuilds. It contains ZDDP (zinc)to assist in the initial operation, aiding high pressure direct contact metal parts, such as camshafts, to resist metal flaking. After the first 500 miles, it isn't required. Avoid full synthetic oils in old engines, as the primitive seals usually can't prevent leakage.
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| 1935ford | -- 12-31-2013 @ 11:07 AM |
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Suggest considering a multi-grade oil spec'd for gasoline and diesel engines. I've found it in 15-40 and 20-50. Been using WalMart's "Super Tech" 20-50: best price I could find. Happy New Year! Roger J.
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| supereal | -- 12-31-2013 @ 3:16 PM |
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I have been using 20W-50 oil for years, usually Castrol brand. Deprnding on your climate, it is a bit heavy for other than summer driving.
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| Old Henry | -- 12-31-2013 @ 5:50 PM |
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I just put the 20W-50 Castrol in mine last Friday before my Moab trip. Outside temperature in the morning was 18° and it started up fine. Gave me a little more oil pressure than the 10W-40 I replaced. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
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