| parrish | -- 01-24-2010 @ 11:25 AM |
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Prepping for paint and am taking down to metal..need to remove door handle,lock and interior panel. For interior panel removal, I remember that to remove the interior handles, I need to push (really hard!) on the escutcheon plate and pop out a pin on the handle. I also remember the window garnish mouldings have some goofy clip. I think you slide a putty knife in and push to release? So far, so good? I vaguely recall the panels themselves have some goofy clip as well. I'm looking for tips, advice or gotchas...thanks!
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| TomO | -- 01-25-2010 @ 7:56 AM |
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Parrish, there are clips around the perimeter of the interior panel and some cars had a screw securing the panel at the bottom corners and at the front edge of the door about the level of the arm rest. I use a small pry bar to pop the clips free from the door. Just pulling on the panel can tear the clips out of the panel. After popping all of the clips from the door, you may have to lift up on the panel to release the arm rest bracket from the door. The outside door handle is held in place by a screw in the edge of the door. The lock cylinder is also secured by a screw accessed from the edge of the door. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 01-25-2010 @ 7:17 PM |
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Parrish, Tom's advice is correct. You might want to go to an automotive parts store and invest in a tool that will pry loose the panel clips. I think they run from $5-10 but well worth the price. It will keep you from tearing the panel board.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 01-26-2010 @ 5:53 AM |
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A Stout putty knife will also work for removing the door panels, just put in between the door panel and the door and slide to one side or the other and pry out,work your way around and becareful so you do not tear the door panel, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN
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| parrish | -- 01-29-2010 @ 10:17 PM |
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Thanks guys! Got everything off. Someone had covered the original fabric back in 1959...Per attached pic of door: what was on the inside of the door panel? Sound insulation?
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| supereal | -- 01-30-2010 @ 10:25 AM |
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There is a variety of materials available for lining the inside of the doors. I like the foil backed type available from vendors such a C&G. The interior of the door is subjected to moisture that comes in around the window, and high temperatures from exposure to the sun, so you have to be sure the insulation is firmly anchored and won't make a rust inducing wet blanket against the panel. A couple of coats of rubberized undercoating mimics the way the builders did it. It stiffens the panel somewhat, as well.
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| trjford8 | -- 01-31-2010 @ 8:27 AM |
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parrish, as Bob said you can use the foil backed 'bubble wrap" type of insulation found at hardware stores.You can also use some of the stuff sold at swap meets or hotrod shops that is a sound deadener. Some of it is pricey, but works very well. Just make sure whatever you use will not soak up water. Also check the drains in your doors to make sure they are open to allow the water to drain out.Lastly I use plastic sheeting on the door between the door and door panel to keep the panel as dry as possible.
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