| seems39 | -- 10-25-2013 @ 9:44 PM |
|
What grease seal is used on the axle and at the front of the drive shaft behind the "U" joint? Mike mreadys@tds.net
|
|
| deuce_roadster | -- 10-26-2013 @ 9:28 AM |
|
Ford part# 4245
|
|
| seems39 | -- 10-28-2013 @ 8:45 PM |
|
Thanks for the seal number, Ford Part # 4245. The seals I have been getting a National number are too small for the axle shaft. They are designed for 1.092 dia and the axles measure 1.115-1.123. I will try to find one of these to see how it fits the drive shaft and axles. The rear end I am working on is a 1937 - 1948 style. Thanks Mike
|
|
| seems39 | -- 10-28-2013 @ 8:59 PM |
|
I just checked this seal (Ford # 4245) design size. It is for a shaft diameter of 1.092. Ford axles and drive shaft diameters are from 1.113 thru 1.123 this seal is way too small for a shaft of these sizes. Got any ideas? I have installed these seals on axles and the lips bend over backwards and some times the spring pops out. Try it by sliding a seal on a axle by hand and see what you discover------. Mike
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 10-29-2013 @ 7:22 AM |
|
32 to 48 Ford Rear inner axle housing B-4245: National 450044 (this seal may be used for the torque tube below) 32 to 48 Ford Torque tube seal (front) B-4245: National 450044, LYO 28004 (see previous listing above) as measured: 1.087 shaft , 1.834 OD x 0.433 W from V8 Times( CR 10926 1.094 Shaft x 1.828 Housing Dia. X 0.438 W) National 450044: 1.093 shaft, 1.828 bore, 1.834 OD, 0.437 W CR 11170 or Victor 49029 I have used the seal sold by Mac's auto parts (LYO) it fits and appears OK but a bit on the cheep side, they work OK.
|
|
| seems39 | -- 10-29-2013 @ 8:24 AM |
|
Thanks 40 Coupe for this info. I have already gotten and tried the National 450044 and Victor 49029. With a design size for each of 1.092 these seals are .023 - .031 too small. These modern seal design tolerance size variations are just .004 plus or minus (from the books at the bearing & seal warehouse). I am going to the bearing & seal warehouse to look up the other seals you mentioned (LYO 28004 & CR 10926) to see what their shaft size design is for. The counter man there is a car nut & is helping me by using his seal books to find a seal that is designed for the shaft sizes or vintage Fords have.
|
|
| deuce_roadster | -- 10-29-2013 @ 8:45 AM |
|
What you describe seems odd. I have installed many of these with no problems EVER. The Ford Chassis book shows all 3 of those seals as the same part #. Are you installing them dry? That is the only way I could imagine seeing what you are experiencing unless the shaft is pitted and rough. Try a little grease or gear oil on the shaft and seal. For the seal to work the hole HAS to be smaller then the shaft.
|
|
| seems39 | -- 10-29-2013 @ 10:21 AM |
|
When you install the axle housings you can not see what is going on with the seals as they are inside the housing. I wanted to know just how well they fitted the shafts I had. So I taped up the key groove, put some lube on the shaft and slid the seal on. It was a distorted mess. I have rebuild many transmissions, rear ends, engines in 50 years of working on cars, race cars and heavy equipment. I saw the seal not fitting correctly. So I took all the seals and axles to the bearing & seal supplier where I live Longview, Washington. The counter man confirmed my thoughts as these are too Small and he supplied me the engineering data for each seal of 1.092 plus or minus .004 for these seals. So I am sending out my research & findings to see what outer folks have discovered & if they have found a solution for the under sized seals being sold to us. I am not going to install a seal that is not the correct shaft size. There is a answer there some place. I had a conversation with one of the early founders of drag racing by the name of Art Christman. Art said to make a banjo rear end live drag racing he would machine the axles down to 1.110 diameter and polish the surface like a rifle barrel. This got rid of the pock marks from the forging process. These pock marks were stress risers & caused the axles to brake there. By removing all of these pock marks the axles now worked like a torsion bar. Art said these axles are made out of metal which is like grade 8 material for bolts. I figured if this worked under heavy drag racing use, machining down the outer end of the axle to fit the 1.092 design diameter would work as I would not be drag racing. So far after many months of talking to many folks this is what I have come up with. There are lots of smart folks out there & my hope is to discover a way to properly assemble these rear ends. Mike
|
|
| supereal | -- 10-29-2013 @ 3:11 PM |
|
I've seen oversize axle shafts. "Back in the day" there were lots of axles sold by various parts places. It does make sense to have the axles turned down to size, not only to assure the seals fit, but to give the seals a smooth surface to ride on. A good machine shop can do it in a very short time. Few people go to the trouble to replace the axle seals in the housings, so they don't see if they are correct.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=6656 |