| bwhitworth | -- 10-23-2013 @ 4:40 PM |
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I had a problem with poor running engine, I discovered a split case on the coil that was atop the distributor. I saw a kit for sale from Mac, it was an adaptor plate that fit the top of the dist and had a place to mount the condenser and plug in the coil wire. I also purchased a modern type 6 volt coil to be remotely mounted. The coil is not marked 6 volt or 12v. I have not got the fist spark out of the coil, I think that I may have gotten a 12v by mistake. I have a friend that had an old red coil in what appears to be in good condition. I installed it on the dist and no spark either. On the original coil the condenser the grounding tab was bent around to the screw that holds the coil to the dist. The red coil has a condenser with a tab and no where to ground it. Anybody have any ideas what might be wrong? Where do I ground the condenser? Thanks Bob
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| 4dFordSC | -- 10-23-2013 @ 7:20 PM |
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On the original style coil, the condenser is mounted to the tang coming out of the bottom of the coil. There is a threaded hole in the end of the tang for that purpose. The original style condensers have a grounding strap with a hole in it that connects to one of the distributor mounting bolts. Pigtail condensers (e.g., NAPA IH-200) can also be used by connecting the pigtail to the tang, and mounting the condenser on one of the bolts that connects the coil to the distributor. In that case, the bolt acts as the ground. Original coils are notorious for failing with age. The good news is they can be rebuilt with modern materials and are then quite reliable. One of the best known rebuilders is Skip Haney: http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm I assume you have confirmed that power is getting to the coil. Hope this helps.
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| supereal | -- 10-23-2013 @ 8:34 PM |
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When you install a kit with a round coil, most require bypassing the original ballast resistor on the inside of the firewall because the modern coils commonly have a builtin resistor. You can confirm this by feeding the coil with a jumper wire directly from the battery. If you then have spark, and the engine starts, you have found the problem.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 10-24-2013 @ 3:50 AM |
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NAPA # for the 1937 to 41 replacement original style condenser is FA49 as mentioned it has a metal strap on the side that gets grounded to the bolt holding the distributor base in place on the engine cover. The condenser mounts upright on the brass tab coming out of the base of the coil by a short 10-32 screw and lock washer, through the tab. Your friends coil may get the engine running but be aware the coil may fail with engine heat. This is why, for reliability, you may want to get the original style rebuild. Check the V8 Times, Skip Haney does this work. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 10-24-13 @ 3:55 AM
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| supereal | -- 10-24-2013 @ 7:50 AM |
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When installing a non stock coil, the mounting of the condenser isn't critical. It can be connected anywhere between the coil terminal leading to the distributor, and the terminal on the distributor, itself. Just be sure the body of the condenser is well grounded.
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| TomO | -- 10-24-2013 @ 9:06 AM |
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The condenser grounds to its mounting tab. It should be mounted to one of the screws that mount the adapter to the distributor. The wire on the condenser should go to the brass terminal on the adapter. You should have ordered and received P/N #A12000, 6 volt positive ground coil. I am pretty sure that it has an internal resistor, so you must bypass the resistor under the dash. The - connection is fed from the ignition switch and the + connection goes to the brass terminal on the adapter. I agree with other comments about using a rebuilt coil. Many of the round coils are made offshore and seem to fail after a short time. The rebuilt coil has the advantage of keeping the original look and a hotter spark than the off shore coils. Tom
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