Topic: stalls


46fordnut    -- 09-09-2013 @ 3:02 PM
  a few days ago i took my 46 ( stock engine) ford around the block all was fine...i pulled into my drive way. it shut off on by its self . did not want to restart..i set the choke just to see if it was to lean did not start. then i pumped the gas pedal about 100 times while cranking . it did restart. but was acting like was getting very little fuel..small popping from tail pipe.. then it ran fine into the garage.. i was told maybe bad condenser. put new one on found a loose connection for dis where the condenser wire goes. i was thinking this maybe the issue. I'm also going to top off my fuel tank . it has a newer fuel pump and just rebuilt the carb . i though that these may cause some issues like this as well . then replace rubber flex line with medal one . only for test . any other ideas..

duct tape is silver....but silence is golden.


supereal    -- 09-09-2013 @ 4:16 PM
  How old is your ignition coil? It is safe to say that ALL old Ford coils cause stalling and difficult starting. You can have your coil rebuilt with modern materials, or buy a new one. I prefer the rebuild, as my confidence in foreign made coils is slim and none. My friend, Skip Haney, does excellent rebuilds.


46fordnut    -- 09-09-2013 @ 5:29 PM
  i don't have any idea how old . can i use an ohm meter to test it when it gets hot ? all i can say it is stamped with ford and the color is light brown. could give a price on the rebuild?

duct tape is silver....but silence is golden.


4dFordSC    -- 09-09-2013 @ 6:55 PM
  <<could give a price on the rebuild?>>

Skip Haney charges $85: skip@fordsrus.com


fla48    -- 09-09-2013 @ 7:25 PM
  I also recommend Skip. The coil can cause what you experienced.


40 Coupe    -- 09-10-2013 @ 5:09 AM
  You do not want to use the Vitron tipped shut off valve for the inlet fuel valve on the carburetor. Modern fuels will make them stick closed. Use the metal style as ford used. Check out Dayton kits on line.


supereal    -- 09-10-2013 @ 2:52 PM
  The only thing an ohmeter can tell you is whether the windings are intact. The primary and secondary windings are connected together inside the top of the coil, so they can't be checked individually. The input terminal from the battery is one place for your meter, and the other side is reached by connecting to the terminal to the distributor, and the high tension pole, which will be inside the distributor on your car. The primary should measure .47 to .51 ohms. The secondary, 5800 ohns. The problem lies in the breakdown of the insulation separating the windings. It is mostly paper, and allows shorts between the windings. As the coil heats up, the problem increases. Coil testers are virtually useless, if one can be found. If yours is an original coil, you will be amazed at the improvement with a new or rebuilt one.


46fordnut    -- 09-10-2013 @ 3:10 PM
  not a bad price ill get that done over winter . thank you for the help. i used and all brass needle in my carb.

duct tape is silver....but silence is golden.


TomO    -- 09-11-2013 @ 7:08 AM
  The best check for the coil is testing the spark at the plugs with the engine at operating temperatures. You should have 1/2" of blue spark at idle with a good coil.

Tom


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