| EWATERS | -- 08-17-2013 @ 9:48 AM |
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I have been restoring a 1950 Ford Custom-Deluxe 4-door sedan. I can now drive the car and it looks great. I plan to remove and restore the rear leaf-springs; i.e., disassemble, clean, paint (POR-15) add Teflon liners between the leaves and reinstall. I suspect that, based on prior experience, this project will not be a easy as I envision it. Does anyone have any warnings and advice regarding the removal and disassembly of the springs? I have read some advice regarding using C-clamps to contain the tension when I remove the center bolt; what else can I expect to encounter? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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| supereal | -- 08-17-2013 @ 11:43 AM |
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Grind any pockets smooth where the ends of the leaves overlap the preceding part. This allows the leaves to move smoothly as the spings are flexed. If you add Teflon liners, you will likely have to alter the clamps to accomodate the added thickness of the spring pack. Using C clamps to contain the spring tension as the center bolt is tightened is a very good safety practice. As for POR, we don't use it, as unless the surface is completely clean and smooth, it usually will flake off. A good grade of primer and enamel will work, and be considerably less expensive
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| EWATERS | -- 08-17-2013 @ 12:02 PM |
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SUPEREAL: Thanks for the hints. I plan to use a wire wheel to clean the residual undercoating and grime off the individual leaves before painting. Am I wrong in thinking that POR15 will provide a harder more durable surface than enamel?
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| EWATERS | -- 08-17-2013 @ 12:03 PM |
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SUPEREAL: Thanks for the hints. I plan to use a wire wheel to clean the residual undercoating and grime off the individual leaves before painting. Am I wrong in thinking that POR15 will provide a harder more durable surface than enamel?
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| EWATERS | -- 08-17-2013 @ 12:03 PM |
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SUPEREAL: Thanks for the hints. I plan to use a wire wheel to clean the residual undercoating and grime off the individual leaves before painting. Am I wrong in thinking that POR15 will provide a harder more durable surface than enamel?
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| kubes40 | -- 08-17-2013 @ 12:13 PM |
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Supereal has given great advice here. I might add a couple of things... I strongly advise replacing the main leaf. If you find NOS or NORS, great. If not, any decent spring shop can make you what is needed. Reinstalling used main leafs kind of defeats much of the purpose of what you are doing. Ride height will go right back to where is was - sagging. You will be quite surprised, happily so, with new main leaves installed. the ride height will be properly restored and the handling will surely improve. I am not a fan of re-arcing springs. It does not take very long and they will return to their previous sagging height. I powder coat each leaf and have found that to hold up very well. I agree with Super that enamel would be a better choice than POR15. Liners? If you clean and smooth out each leaf, there is no need for liners.
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| goshencars | -- 10-06-2013 @ 3:52 PM |
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I always sandblast the leaves, then grind any grooves smooth. then paint the leaves. I then apply a thin layer of grease. Then apply a layer of Teflon pipe tape. You press it smooth into the grease and it will stay in place. It takes a couple strips. Assemble the spring and trim the excess tape. You should be good for life and never have to grease or listen to a squeak.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 10-07-2013 @ 12:21 PM |
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When I rebuilt the springs in my "46 I coated between each leaf with Never-Sieze. This is the silver compound used on nuts and bolts to allow easy removal in harsh conditions. I couldn't believe how it improved my ride.
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| supereal | -- 10-07-2013 @ 6:59 PM |
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Given that replacement springs are not hugely expensive, they make a lot of sense in terms of ride and handling. Springs get tired from constant flexing, and alloys that are not decades old provide many advantages. Just be sure your shock absorbers are in good condition.
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