| edserp | -- 08-12-2013 @ 6:34 PM |
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so have tried starting my 36 ford truck with orginial motor and the passenger side rear exhaust is leaking antifreeze (drips on starter motor) and a short warm up overflows the radiator and is pushing water out...(a ton of water...gallon in 10 min)...you can see bubbles in radiator but not huge ones but there is no water at all in the oil...suggestions on what to test or would you just replace the head gasket? looking for some guidance. thanks
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| supereal | -- 08-12-2013 @ 7:09 PM |
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While it is likely the engine will have to come out and apart, run a compression test to determine which side of the engine is likely affected. Pull the head on that side and inspect the head gasket for obvious voids, and the valve area for cracks. Coolant leaks into the exhaust, more often than not, indicates a breach in the water jacket into the exhaust passage, probably from freezing. You may be lucky, but share what you find.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-12-2013 @ 8:45 PM |
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Ed, another possibility is that an exhaust manifold bolt was too long and popped through to the water jacket. This would be the preferable cause of the leak, but Super's diagnosis is more likely, due to the large amount of exhaust you report in the radiator. Alan
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| TomO | -- 08-13-2013 @ 7:44 AM |
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Look carefully around the head gasket area. You may just have a leaking head gasket and the coolant is running down the block onto the exhaust manifold. If the coolant is coming out of the exhaust manifold, then you likely have a crack. The engine will have to come out to repair the crack. If it is coming from the head gasket area, take compression readings to make sure that it is only the right side affected and then pull the head and inspect the gasket and block. Tom
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| edserp | -- 08-13-2013 @ 6:22 PM |
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so I check on the outside of the head gasket and nothing running down (put paper towels around and perfectly dry after I rain it...comes out the exhaust mainifold around the bolt. I did get a head gasket and can look at that but suspect that is a passage in the block. A certain amount will leak out if I just let it sit there. Has anyone every used a block sealer to fix it? Seems that that block is done for if it passage is open to the exhaust.
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| edserp | -- 08-13-2013 @ 6:24 PM |
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Does anyone know of a good person to do engine work in the Baltimore area?
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| JM | -- 08-13-2013 @ 9:14 PM |
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I am assuming you mean Baltimore, Maryland? If so, I would recommend Bill Coleman of Coleman Brothers. John
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| JM | -- 08-13-2013 @ 9:15 PM |
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I am assuming you mean Baltimore, Maryland? If so, I would recommend Bill Coleman of Coleman Brothers. John
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| TomO | -- 08-14-2013 @ 7:13 AM |
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Because you are blowing coolant out of the radiator, I would not try block sealer until I had removed the head and checked for cracks. Take the car to Coleman Brothers, like John recommended. Tom
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| edserp | -- 08-14-2013 @ 8:31 AM |
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so from what I can tell coleman bros. went out of business..have a telephone number for a "bill" in linithicum but haven't been able to get thru to confirm that is him (410-799-2906) any other suggestions for places around baltimore md?
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| edserp | -- 08-14-2013 @ 9:33 AM |
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did get in touch with him on that number...he can work on the motor once I take it out...which I guess will be the next chore thanks for the help ed
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| 1934 Ford | -- 08-14-2013 @ 6:55 PM |
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edserp, You got good advice about doing the compression check before pulling the at fault head, or the engine. Remember it's much easier to do that with the engine IN THE TRUCK. I think even if you don't want to do that or can't, that it would be a good choice to have it done before you pull the engine. Pulling the whole engine is not always easy or necessary with these old flatheads, especially in trucks. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| edserp | -- 08-14-2013 @ 7:10 PM |
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plan to do compression check this weekend and will post results when I get them. I am doing small show with my dad (48 ford) next weekend so can't take truck apart until then (will trailer it to the show) again thanks for all the suggestions
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| shogun1940 | -- 08-14-2013 @ 7:23 PM |
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i would do cylinder leak down test.. put shop air in each cylinder at top dead center and see where it comes out
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| edserp | -- 08-17-2013 @ 6:12 PM |
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so took compression test...from the front to rear passenger side...72 5 65 70 (water is leaking is the passenger side closet cab (70) drivers side front to rear..72 70 80 43 if I put some oil in the 43...will go up to 60. I think the bolt leaking may be just thru the bolt...I was going to try to put some sealer on the bolt and but it back in to see if the leak there stops. still not sure what is causing it to blow water out of the radiator....suggestions? trying to find a mechanic who could maybe do house call or a shop to look at it before I pull it from the truck. Any suggestions for the Baltimore area?
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| TomO | -- 08-19-2013 @ 7:32 AM |
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If you posted the correct numbers, cyl. 2 has only 5 lbs compression. There is definitely something wrong with it. Tom
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| edserp | -- 08-27-2013 @ 6:24 PM |
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so error in my typing ...was 70 not 7...have stopped the leaking at the bolts but still overflowing..purchase a temp gun to measure temp of motor and will replace antifreeze with water to make sure that is not an issue...will post results later after I get the next weekend off.
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| TomO | -- 09-01-2013 @ 9:05 AM |
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Take the truck to a radiator shop that can test for compression gases in the coolant or can do a pressure test on the system. do not let the pressure get above 6 lbs as it may damage the radiator. Or do a cylinder leak test as shogun1940 suggested. Tom
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