| Flatbob | -- 08-04-2013 @ 9:51 AM |
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Can I safely remove 3/8" of the rubber donut at the bottom of the motor mount bolt so I will have some additional threaded area at the top of the bolt where it passes through the foot of the water pump, I've stacked some fender washers so I need some extra length. I need some extra clearance for the FENTON header to clear steering gear box; I realize I will also have to grind away some metal from header & steering box cover.
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| trjford8 | -- 08-04-2013 @ 5:57 PM |
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Fenton headers are always a problem on the earlier cars. I gave up on putting a set on a 40 coupe and purchased Red's headers. They fit well and needed no modification to the header, steering box or motor mounts. Unfortunately vendors sell you headers and don't warn about potential problems with fitment.
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| Flatbob | -- 08-05-2013 @ 7:59 AM |
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TRj, thanks for the reply; if I had it to do over again I would go with RED'S but am committed to find a way to make the FENTONS work.
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| TomO | -- 08-05-2013 @ 8:44 AM |
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Bob, are you trying to raise the front of the engine? Be aware that you are changing the geometry of the drive line and may increase you clutch chatter. My understanding is that you might also have some problems with the header pipe routing on the 36 Chassis. Fenton does not recommend their headers on cars built before 1937 with stock steering gear. If you have not modified your headers, I would go with Red's headers and sell your Fentons to someone with a 37-48 Ford. Tom
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| Flatbob | -- 08-05-2013 @ 6:09 PM |
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TomO, yes, am trying to raise front of engine, have lifted it about 3/8". I thought that small amount wouldn't pose a drive line problem. The header pipe extensions from RED'S fit through the slightly enlarged openings in the front X-member. Bottom line, do you think I can safely raise the front of the engine 3/8?" Am not using the stock transmission or rear end. The engine is an 8BA and did require some slight grinding to headers for dip stick and header bolts. This message was edited by Flatbob on 8-5-13 @ 6:11 PM
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| buford8 | -- 08-06-2013 @ 4:32 AM |
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You may raise the front of the engine a bit (3/8" to 1/2") with no problems...that's what the "U" joint is for...Since the engine and transmission are essentially one piece the misalignment will occur at the universal joint, which is by design, made to accomodate some misalignment whether open or closed drive line...on my '40 I raised the mounts about the same as you mentioned for header clearance with Fenton headers...no problems! Good luck! buford8 in New Mexico. You mess with me, you mess with the whole trailer park! This message was edited by buford8 on 8-6-13 @ 4:33 AM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 08-06-2013 @ 5:29 AM |
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You may want to consider cutting the Fenton open removing the interference and having a steel plate welded over the opening.
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| Flatbob | -- 08-06-2013 @ 7:59 AM |
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buford8/40 coupe, thanks for replying. The 3/8" raise at the front of engine just allows the header to make contact with the '40 steering gear box. I think I can safely remove 1/8" from the Fenton header, maybe a little off the steering box cover too. I have an open drive line or will have when this is completed and as buford8 suggests the u-joints will handle the misalignment. I have no welding skills, but can cast iron be welded? The final problem is the motor mount bolts are 3/8" short now; am considering removing 3/8" from the rubber donut on the bottom of the motor mount bolt?
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