Topic: 1939 deluxe wiring problem


cappy39    -- 01-17-2010 @ 6:08 PM
  Hello Guys
I am the proud new owner of a 39 deluxe tudor. I promptly went out and spent a small fortune on it. I am working on putting in the new dash wiring harness, and I need HELP. I replaced the resistor/fuse panel. I replaced the on off switch mechanism, new solenoid, all new cables etc. The motor turns over quite well, but I cannot get power to the coil/distributor. I feel like there is something I need to do on the gauges, but I am not sure. Any advise? Is there a ground on the instruments?
Thanks for the help
Mark



ford38v8    -- 01-17-2010 @ 9:10 PM
  Mark, Your new ignition switch, or your new resistor may be the cause of your lack of power at the coil. Nothing else is in that circuit. If you have a voltmeter, check for power going into and out of those two units. Sorry to say that imported parts are often, in Henry Ford's words, "spurious".

Alan


cappy39    -- 01-17-2010 @ 9:25 PM
  Thanks Alan
Is there a way to bypass them?
Mark


cappy39    -- 01-17-2010 @ 9:26 PM
  Oh yeh
I am also not getting any power to the stater button.



TomO    -- 01-18-2010 @ 7:36 AM
  You may have the wiring to the starter solenoid backwards. The battery connection goes on the terminal closest to the drivers side of the car. This terminal also has the feed for the power to the rest of the car. The terminal closest to the passenger side of the solenoid should only have the starter cable attached.

Tom


deluxe40    -- 01-18-2010 @ 9:39 AM
  Cappy39 - You shouldn't expect power to the starter button. It just grounds the wire coming from the solenoid which activates it and the starter. (You did say the motor turns over, so the starter button must be doing its job.) You can hot wire the car by running a wire from the negative pole of the battery directly to the coil, but you risk coil damage in doing so unless you include a resistor. You might try using the resistor you removed from the car in the hot wire - it's probably OK.

Better yet, get a volt meter (or just a 6v light bulb with a couple of wires attached). Disconnect the wire at the coil (to protect the points) and turn on the ignition switch. Then check for voltage from ground to: the negative pole of the battery, the solenoid, the input and output of the ignition switch, the input and output of the dash resistor and the input to the coil. Let us know what you find.


cappy39    -- 01-18-2010 @ 9:56 AM
  Hey guys
thanks for the suggestions. I can turn the motor using the button on the bottom of the solenoid. could the new solenoid be defective? should I purchase a toggle switch and bypass the original on off? should I get a three pole switch. I haven't been out there to check with the voltage meter. It is raining here in so cal....we don't know how to handle it since it happens so infrequently.


supereal    -- 01-18-2010 @ 10:07 AM
  As mentioned above, I suspect you have the starter cable and battery cable reversed at the solenoid. If you have a solenoid with only one small terminal that connects to the starter button, the solenoid coil receives battery power internally, and that terminal must "find" ground thru the starter button. If you connect a wire between the small terminal and ground, and the engine doesn't crank, reverse the cables. If you have a "universal" type solenoid with two small terminals, one goes to the button, and the other needs a link to the battery side of the solenoid. Also, be sure you have a starter button with only one terminal. If you have a repro with two terminals, one side connects to the solenoid, the other to ground. The one terminal button gets its ground thru the body of the button to the dash panel.


admiral1960    -- 01-19-2010 @ 10:58 AM
  If you have a cell phone and are willing to go out to the car and check things while on the phone I would be happy to attempt to help you.



Allen E Michler
AW1, USNR (10 yrs)
LTC, TC, USAR (29 yrs)


cappy39    -- 01-19-2010 @ 3:38 PM
  Hey thanks. I may take you up on that, but I won't get a chance to work on it until this weekend, weather permitting.
Mark


deuce_roadster    -- 01-19-2010 @ 5:40 PM
  I have seen solenoids that look exactly like a positive ground Ford solenoid with the button on the bottom that are in fact 6v NEGATIVE ground solenoids. Make sure you don't have one of these.


trjford8    -- 01-19-2010 @ 6:12 PM
  If you are rewiring the car go back and recheck all your connections using the wiring diagram. You may have something that is not connected in the proper place. Many times it's something simple that is causing the problem.


admiral1960    -- 01-19-2010 @ 8:28 PM
  Will be gone Sat be available Sun Afternoon

Allen E Michler
AW1, USNR (10 yrs)
LTC, TC, USAR (29 yrs)


cappy39    -- 01-19-2010 @ 10:00 PM
  how can I tell if it is a negative or positive ground solenoid? I am planning on taking it back anyway, because when I press the button at the bottom, it sticks half the time and keeps cranking the motor.
Mark


admiral1960    -- 01-20-2010 @ 7:39 AM
  Unless it is a solid state (electronic) solenoid the polarity should not make any difference in how the wires are hooked up.

Allen E Michler
AW1, USNR (10 yrs)
LTC, TC, USAR (29 yrs)


supereal    -- 01-20-2010 @ 10:40 AM
  I haven't seen any solenoids that were polarity sensitive. Using an ohmmeter, check to see if the small terminal is connected to one of the large terminals. You will be reading the resistance of the solenoid coil. If so, the solenoid requires that ground be applied to the small terminal to pull the solenoid coil. If you don't find a connection, the solenoid is bad. If you have two small terminals, one must be connected to the battery side of the solenoid, the other to the starter button.
The type with the button on the bottom is an early model. If it sticks, replace it, as it is likely the contacts are burned.


cappy39    -- 01-20-2010 @ 7:06 PM
  Thanks Guys for the help. As soon as it stops raining I am going to try to work on it again. I would put it in the garage, but no room. Incidentally, do you know anyone who might be interested in trading an original 33 or 34 Ford for my 1964 Pontiac GTO convertible?
Mark

This message was edited by cappy39 on 1-20-10 @ 7:20 PM


cappy39    -- 01-25-2010 @ 8:06 PM
  Hey Guys
Got it running. 4 stuck valves later. It is starting to smooth out, but is running a little rough.
Thanks for all the advice
Mark


trjford8    -- 01-26-2010 @ 7:14 AM
  Cappy, put a little Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank. It will help with the sticky valves.


cappy39    -- 01-26-2010 @ 8:17 AM
  How much MMO?


TomO    -- 01-26-2010 @ 9:01 AM
  Use MMO as directed on the can. Any more will just create smoke and rob your engine of power.

What was the fix on your wiring problem?

Tom


cappy39    -- 01-26-2010 @ 4:05 PM
  As it turns out, Alan was right. The solenoid I purchased was bad. When I got the new one, I got spark and off I go.
Mark


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