| 39Fordfan | -- 07-17-2013 @ 1:20 PM |
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Hi, I just got around to putting some miles on my Fordor this year. I'd had it out in the Spring when it was cooler and it ran great. Last night, I gave the battery a good charge. It started right up today, ran good and then I hit a construction zone. It got up to about 205 but didn't boil over. It ran badly, missing, no power, back-firing, etc. until I barely got to my destination and let it cool for about an hour. Then it ran great all the way home. However, I noticed my in dash electric gauge was reading a considerable draw down on the way home (it was doing this all along since the construction zone.) I put the battery on the charger and I believe it accepted the charge after many hours. It ran great for awhile then reverted back to all of the earlier symptoms after sitting at some lights and getting up to 195-200. Again the electric gauge showing a higher then normal draw. Its REALLY hot here today, and I've never had any real problems with the heat as long as I can eventually get moving. The battery is an acid and lead type and is 5 years old, and I may have some of last year's gas in the tank still. So I was thinking of starting with replacing the battery as it seems erratic and topping off with a fresh tank of gas. I haven't looked at anything else, as I was looking for some of your educated opinions as to where to start. Thanks!
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| supereal | -- 07-17-2013 @ 2:54 PM |
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The common problem of the kind you mention, is a hot ignition coil. If you have an old coil in you car, have it rebuilt or replace it. Same is true of the condenser. The dielectrics (insulation) in old coils and condensers break down over time, and it shows up in high temperatures. As your battery is at least five years old, it is time for a change. Again, high temperatures affect batteries. Be sure your generator belt is in good condition, and properly tensioned. A generator requires about five horsepower when heavy loaded, and any slippage can cause low output. Many of us have installed the Optima glass mat battery. It has high cranking power, stays charged over long periods, and doesn't leak car eating acid. It has been in the high 90's here in Iowa for several days, and we have been doing a brisk business in battery replacement at our shop.
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| 39Fordfan | -- 07-17-2013 @ 5:02 PM |
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Thanks for your reply Super! I'll do the battery first. Someone replaced the original coil along the way and put a cylindrical one on the interior fender wall. I think it got replaced about 6-7 years ago, but I'm not sure. Should be a cheap and easy replacement. Maybe I'll get an original style one from Skip sometime. Is there anything I should be aware of when replacing the condenser? Thanks again!
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| supereal | -- 07-17-2013 @ 6:11 PM |
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A common error when swapping a round coil for the correct one is the failure to bypass the resistor on the inside of the firewall. This results in trying to run a six volt coil on half voltage. Most, if not all, round coils have a built in resistor. If so, that may be your problem. If you install a correct coil, be sure to reconnect the resistor, or the coil will be damaged. Skip can wind coils that don't need a resistor, too. Most good vendors, such as C&G sell them. Many offshore condensers have problems, particularly where the terminals are attached.
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