Topic: Matching 35 ford paint


35gal    -- 01-16-2010 @ 6:17 PM
  I want to have the trunk lid repainted but not sure what color to use. The guy I got the car from said it was "Midnight Blue" but that color is not listed in my 35/36 manual. Has anyone heard of it and has anyone had any luck in matching old paint with new paint.


trjford8    -- 01-17-2010 @ 7:38 AM
  Take your car to an automotive paint store. They should be able to match your existing paint. If your car is an older restoration your paint has probably faded a little. Buying a can of paint from somebody just based on the name of the color is risky. You can buy 5 cans from different manufacturers and they will all be a shade different, but have the same color name.


MOXIE    -- 01-17-2010 @ 12:57 PM
  He's right. You can not buy a can of paint, even if you did know the color and expect it to match. I painted my car and year later went back and got the same paint and it did not match. I don't know what the answer to your problem is. I doubt if there are any paint stores that can match it. Not in my area. They are just kids that mix formulas and nothing else.


lightflyer1    -- 01-18-2010 @ 6:40 PM
  I just had a top painted for one of my other cars. CarQuest had a little machine they put on the car and it read the paint color. Good match too.


lightflyer1    -- 01-18-2010 @ 6:40 PM
  I just had a top painted for one of my other cars. CarQuest had a little machine they put on the car and it read the paint color. Good match too.


watwasithinking    -- 01-19-2010 @ 12:41 AM
  35Gal,

The first step in trying to obtain a good color match is to determine if your car was painted with a single stage paint system or a clear coat two stage system. Using 2000 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper (always use wet/dry paper with water)sand a small paint area being sure to keep the surface wet. If while sanding you see a white, "white-ish" looking color...that's the clear sanding residue.If you sand and immediately see color, red, blue,black etc...that's the color sanding residue and you'll know your dealing with a single stage color. To return this area back to its previous appearance, simply dry the sanded area with a towel, then polish out wth soft clean polishing cloth(t shirt) by hand with rubbing compound or non silicone polish.
In 1978 the American car manufacturers began using the two stage clearcoat systems.Ford used a Midnight Blue, code 35 on the Lincoln Continental. This particular color was a two stage, basecoat color/clearcoat system. In order to correctly spot repair and match this Lincoln Midnight Blue code 35, one would repair by using a two stage paint system. For overall refinishing where color match was not as critical, paint manufacturers would make these two stage colors avaiable in single stage systems (enamel, acrylic enamel, acrylic lacquer, polyurethane and sometimes acrylic urethane).It is very possible the former owner of your car could have chosen a two stage color code and had a single stage color mixed in a single stage system; acrylic enamel, acyrlic urethane or even acyrlic lacquer if this was several years ago.

Looking at this particular color, 1978 Ford color, code 35 Midnight Blue, it is almost a dead ringer for the 1935 Ford color, Dearborn Blue. I would put my money on this code.....and the Vikings.

You can always go with the color spectrometer but you still need to do the test to determine if you have a single stage or two stage system to repair. I would suggest that you take a look at the code 35 midnight blue color first. As I always say.....
watwasithinking


35gal    -- 01-19-2010 @ 6:23 AM
  Thanks everyone. Great information. I have a color chip of dearborn blue and my color looks very very close to being it. I will check out the ford color you suggested and carquest, thanks


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