| 40guy | -- 06-07-2013 @ 1:27 PM |
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Hello fellow V8ers. just a couple of quick questions. My neighbor just bought a 1940 pick-up at an estate sale. The truck is very original and sound however, the engine appears to be locked up. He has poured MMO in the cylinders repeatedly with no success. Has also tried pulling it and popping the clutch with no success. What would the next step be. Question two concerns the transmission. I located six positions {gears} with the shifter. What's going on here? Any help would be appreciated.
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| trjford8 | -- 06-07-2013 @ 7:36 PM |
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Pull the heads and see what the cylinders look like. If the block has cracked they may be full of rust and no amount of MMO will break it loose. I have no idea on the six positions of the transmission. If you count neutral as a position on a 4 speed, there would be six positions.
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| 40guy | -- 06-08-2013 @ 8:29 AM |
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trjford8: Thanks for the reply . We did in fact discuss removing the heads. I proposed pulling off the front fenders and hood to have easier access. I know some times heads that have been sitting for a long time are difficult to remove. What's your opinion on removing the heads? Front clip on, or front clip off?
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| trjford8 | -- 06-08-2013 @ 7:21 PM |
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Are the heads aluminum or cast iron? Being a '40 they should be cast iron unless somebody has installed some aftermarket aluminum heads. Generally there is no need to pull the front fenders on a routine repair, but in your case I would pull them. If you have an issue where you need to pull the motor it will save you from pulling them later. Unbolt the fenders at the cowl and unbolt the inner splash guard from the fender and the frame and remove the guard. Disconnect the head light wiring in the engine compartment and remove the radiator. If the vehicle has the radiator splash shield under it remove that also. The grille can be fragile, so I would remove it from the front fenders. A broken grille can be costly. Now remove the bolt at the front inner panel that holds the fender to the front yoke. Then check to make sure there are not any other bolts holding the fender or inner panel to the frame. Now you can remove the fender. Repeat the process on the other side. There is no need to remove the hood. With all the sheetmetal removed you will have a clear shot at checking the problem. My suspicion(I hope I am wrong) is you will have to remove the motor.
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| supereal | -- 06-09-2013 @ 4:13 AM |
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I hate to be a spoiler, but any vehicle with a stuck engine should be considered valuable for the body and running gear only, as most stuck engines were the cause of permenately parking the car or truck in the first place. Many are found to be full of all kinds of animal "treasures", such as nuts, grass, etc. At the very least, the cylinder walls are usually very rusty, the rings are permenately fused, and valves are glued in place. Even if the block appears sound with no signs of freeze damage. At today's prices, complete overhaul starts at least five grand.
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| 40guy | -- 06-09-2013 @ 11:53 AM |
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triford8 and supereal: Thank you both for your input. That's exactly what I asked for. Frankly, right now it doesn't look to good.
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