| fordmerc | -- 06-01-2013 @ 12:47 PM |
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I need step by step instructions, how to remove '39 Merc transmission. (video would be better) I have a '46 Maintenance Manual which has steps, but leaves a ton of unanswered questions and intermediate steps. Anyone have a better source? E.G.: does the rear spring really need to be removed? can the spreader stay in place as axle pulled back? any tricks to pull the axle back? does the trans unit really get pulled up and out through the passenger compartment (that should break a back!)? How far back does the rear axle have to move to pull the transmission? How far back does the transmission have to move to pull it out? What can go wrong? Comments and advice appreciated
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| kubes40 | -- 06-01-2013 @ 1:02 PM |
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The easiest way in my opinion is to pull the rear end back vs. pulling the engine. You will need to drop the rear end. I'd suggest removing the "u bolts" and thereby leaving the spring attached to the differential/ axle housings. Disconnect the middle rubber brake hose, parking brake cable at the yoke and the shock links. You only need to roll the rear back about 5 - 6". You must remove the front floor boards and center transmission cover. After the floor is removed, remove the u-joint covers. the rest is pretty much self explanatory. Block the rear of the engine pan so the weight does not fall entirely upon the front mounts once the transmission is removed. I find it easier to remove the front seat vs. working around it. The transmission must come out upwards...
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 06-01-2013 @ 2:10 PM |
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Kubes is right, I have done this job both ways and sliding the rear back in my opinion is way easier. Think for a moment what is required to remove your engine. The reason it comes out thru the top is because it won't clear the wishbones, etc. Don't read more into this than you have too. As cubes suggests look over the rear and disconnect everything attached and your good to go! I don't know where you are located but I'm sure there are locals that can help and if not thats what were here for!
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 06-01-2013 @ 2:11 PM |
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Kubes is right, I have done this job both ways and sliding the rear back in my opinion is way easier. Think for a moment what is required to remove your engine. The reason it comes out thru the top is because it won't clear the wishbones, etc. Don't read more into this than you have too. As cubes suggests look over the rear and disconnect everything attached and your good to go! I don't know where you are located but I'm sure there are locals that can help and if not thats what were here for!
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| Gary M. | -- 06-01-2013 @ 6:43 PM |
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I did a clutch job on my 39 Standard a couple of years ago and opted for using this method. My experience however was more than I bargained for. I removed the front seat so that I could pull the transmission into the car instead of dropping it from underneath. Well....while removing the transmission cover and wood floor boards I found a whole bunch of rusty spots on the floors and the transmission cover. Soooo....the clutch job turned into a clutch, all new floors, new wood floorboards, new universal, and new transmission cover! Living in the northeast, there is not much to do outside in the winter anyhow. If I ever have to remove the transmission again at least the floors will be an easy disassembly. Good luck with your tranny removal. Its a scary job but once you get started everything kinda falls into place.
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| Stroker | -- 06-01-2013 @ 9:54 PM |
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You have been given great advice, as some of us have done this drill early Saturday morning, after a particularly "competitive" Friday night. As for your fear of the "back-breaking" task of pulling the transmission up and out, your 39 trans is really pretty light, and it has a convenient handle in the form of the shift lever. I've replaced many a low-gear slider, and/or cluster before the salvage yards closed at noon on Saturday, so I could drive to school on Monday. I will admit to having led a "dissipated" youth however.
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| TomO | -- 06-02-2013 @ 5:07 PM |
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I agree that pulling the rear end back is the best way to remove the trans. You will have to use jack stands under the chassis at the rear running board supports to keep the body high enough to pull the rear end back. I also remove the rear tires to give me more room. I also remove the front seat to give me more room to handle the transmission and to protect the upholstery. Remove the rear mount bolts and jack up the transmission to get at the lower U-joint cover bolts. Remove the clutch release equalizer shaft. When you have the transmission out, check the clutch release cross shaft bushings for wear and replace them and the shaft if there is any play. This will make your clutch operation better and make it easier to get a good adjustment. I like to replace the throwout bearing as well. This job looks more intimidating than it is. Tom
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