| 80artk | -- 05-16-2013 @ 11:31 AM |
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I rejoined the club recently after a several years absence from membership, because I bought a 36 Ford Tudor Touring Sedan. The odometer shows about 45,000 miles and I believe that is probably accurate. It was very well kept and original to the point of still having mechanical brakes and 6 volt electrical system. It runs but needs a tune up. My question is about getting a later model engine if the original one needs some major work? Several people in the past have said that the later model engines are prone to getting/having cracked blocks. They say the earlier engines are better and do not have the cracked block problem. I like the older engines but remember that the distributor between the water pumps was unreliable. I have owned 47,48 and 53 models and drove them all with no serious engine problems. I just bought the 36 and have not had an opportunity to check the engine in detail. It might have good compression and oil pressure,etc., but don't know anything yet. So I would like to hear what you members would recommend about keeping or replacing the 36 engine, should it need an overhaul or other serious attention.
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| supereal | -- 05-16-2013 @ 2:21 PM |
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I suspect that the overwhelming response here will be to keep your car as original as possible. The front mounted distributor is a marvel of dependability when properly maintained. It is true that all Ford flatheads were susceptible to block cracks in the valve seat area. Over the years, we have repaired many of these problems by pinning the area. If your engine is the insert bearing type, and in restorable condition, an investment to keep it original will pay dividends in the future value of your car.
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| Stroker | -- 05-16-2013 @ 4:42 PM |
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I'll "second" Supereal's opinion. Visually, as you know, there are a lot of differences between the early 21 stud motors, and the later ones. Functionally, there's not a lot of advantages to swapping to a newer (say 59A or 8BA) unless you are a "street rodder", and of course when you open the hood on a 32-36, its all "there" for everyone to nit-pick. If you have an early Babbitt block, and you have to do a complete rebuild, I'd try to find a later 36 insert block, simply because they are cheaper to re-build, and the number of shops that will knowledgeably re-pour Babbitt mains has dwindled. Visually of course, they appear the same. I'd also keep the mechanical brakes, as properly set-up they are certainly adequate now, as they were then, plus you don't have to deal with the problems of old, gummy fluid and rusty wheel cylinders. You will find, I believe, an overwhelming majority of us who believe there is no advantage to switching out the 6V, positive ground (earth return) system. And as Supereal has stated, the front-mount, dual-point system is very trouble-free as long as it has a decent coil, re-wound by someone who uses modern dielectric's, and equipped with NOS points. As a group, we have found issues with some of the foreign made aftermarket points offered by restoration suppliers. A small favor: Post some pictures, as we love to look at surviving originals. Many of us believe in the maxim that "the're only ORIGINAL once". I too am a "retread", as I joined in the 70's and had to set some life priorities in the 80's.
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| 80artk | -- 05-17-2013 @ 10:58 AM |
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Thanks for your responses. I am grateful to hear from experienced folks who are not trying to sell something. I will attempt to attach a couple of photos. Art K.
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| 80artk | -- 05-17-2013 @ 2:29 PM |
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I wanted to send a couple of photos earlier, but did not get it done. Here is a second try.
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| 80artk | -- 05-17-2013 @ 2:42 PM |
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Darn! I inadvertently sent the same photo again. I am not used to the computer I started using recently. I will try again.
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| Stroker | -- 05-17-2013 @ 10:04 PM |
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80ark: Thank's for the great photo's. You obviously have a "keeper". We still have quite a group of 36 owners participating in this forum, so you should have lots of input for any issues that arise once you really get your teeth into your new acquisition.
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