| Norman4 | -- 05-07-2013 @ 10:15 PM |
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I have a 1937 Ford Deluxe 85 HP Ford Fordor Touring Sedan. The dual horns quit working with the horn button. I jumpered the horns at the horn location and they blow. Any advise or procedure to correct the problem will be much appreciated. Thanks, Norm. Norm
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| MG | -- 05-07-2013 @ 11:00 PM |
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Battery looking for ground. I had the same problem with the horn circuit in my '37 Deluxe Fordor. I found that the female wire connector sleeves and the male bullet connectors on the yellow horn wire were corroded. (These connectors are at the horns and about 6 to 8 inches from the light switch housing.) Also, the male bullet connectors were crimped on as opposed to being soldered. I replaced the female connector sleeves and soldered on new male connectors. This resolved my horn problem. If this does not work for you, you should check the horn connection in the light switch body housing. It's the center connection which makes contact with the horn rod. If you have a quality wiring harness, all connections inside the housing will be soldered. Check the soldered connection at the end of the horn rod while your at it. There is a wire inside the horn rod that might have gone open. MAC's sells a replacement/repair kit should you need to replace this wire. Hopefully you won't have to pull the horn button and rod. BTW - If yours is an original car like mine, there is no horn relay..... This message was edited by MG on 5-7-13 @ 11:32 PM
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| Norman4 | -- 05-08-2013 @ 10:53 AM |
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Thanks, MG for your rompt and informative reply. I will search out the connctions you suggested. Thanks again, Norm Norm
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| MG | -- 05-08-2013 @ 1:34 PM |
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Be sure to let us know what you find.......
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| Norman4 | -- 05-15-2013 @ 12:08 PM |
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Thanks MG for helping me out. I followed your instructions.I cleaned and soldered all the wiring conections at the two horns. I opened the light switch canister at the bottom of the steering column. Still no horn when the light switch canister was closed up. Opened canister again and put a wiring clip and wire on the center terminal (horn terminal) and grounded the other end to the frame. Horns honked loud and clear.So the problem appears to be from the end of the light switch rod to the horn button. To fix this, it appears that I have to pull the horn rod out, which appears to be a fairly major operation just to honk the horns from the steering wheel horn button. My prpoed fix is to install a axilliary horn button under the dash, and run a new ground wire to the horns. Your thoughts? Attached is a picture of my 37 Deluxe Fordor Touring sedan. 42,000 original miles Original paint, original interior. Norm
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| Norman4 | -- 05-15-2013 @ 12:18 PM |
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Sorry. I sent the picture of the wrong 37. I'll try again with hopefully the correct picture.Thanks. Norm
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| MG | -- 05-15-2013 @ 7:18 PM |
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Again, it's "battery looking for ground". Your proposed fix will work if you supply a GOOD GROUND through the "auxiliary horn button" you intend to install. Be sure this aux button will handle the high current that your horns will demand when contact is made inside this button - these horns draw heavy current. To recap, it's a GOOD GROUND you need to supply through the button to the horn wire (which is 'hot'/battery.) I got a 'flutter' when I looked at the photos of your two '37's.........:o)
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