| 1934 Ford | -- 04-28-2013 @ 5:51 AM |
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After leaving my spare engine dormant for too long, I'd like to tear it down and refresh it. Problem: How to hold it while working on it. Now it sits in a wooden cradle on a funiture dolly. That's OK to move it around the barn, but not good for pulling heads and the pan, or doing any thing that involves torque. The stands that hook to the exhaust ports are low and only good for top end work. Is there any available engine stand that hold it up and allows ot to be turned over? What do engine rebuilders use for the 21 stud engine? Commericially available stand recommendatons? 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| TonyM | -- 04-28-2013 @ 6:51 AM |
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Try this link. The flathead engine stand has been discussed at length on the FordBarn. I think that you would have to join FordBarn (very simple) in order to see all the photos. Also, if you type in "flathead engine stand" in the FordBarn seach feature, a number of threads treating this issue will come up. Some guys make their own and some are available and still others make adaptors for use with modern engine stands. Good luck. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29659&highlight=flathead+engine+stand . . . 78-73B
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| mrtexas | -- 04-28-2013 @ 7:27 AM |
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Got a welder? Make one that attaches to the motor mounts with 1 inch square tubing. I did for 2 Model A engines.
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| supereal | -- 04-28-2013 @ 10:40 AM |
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Our engine stands have a plate that attaches to the exhaust manifold bolt holes, and the shank is a round pipe that permits the rotation of the engine to provide access to the underside, and has a removable pin to hold it in place. It features a strong central support, and a set of wheels to permit easy movement, and was built in our shop. The attachment is good for both 21 and 24 stud engines. As in most things, quality and price are often linked. Unless you do substantial engine work, investment in a professional grade stand may not be worth the cost, but whatever you buy, make sure it is able to firmly support the load. NEVER hang a flathead by the rear bell housing. At the least, it can destroy the block, at worst, it can destroy your feet. Many such stands are on the market. In most cases, an attaching plate for flatheads will have to be made. This message was edited by supereal on 4-28-13 @ 10:41 AM
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| 1934 Ford | -- 04-30-2013 @ 4:49 AM |
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OK guys, Thanks. Buying a KR Wilson stand is out of the question. I was hoping in 2012 there was a better way than I've been using for 40 years (Horsing it around on a dolly and doing the head torquing after it's in the frame) As usual, as age progresses, I look for easier ways. With so few good 21 stud engines left, I'd feel safer off the dolly (Not on a Chinese stand either) But working on the floor is neither healthy or especially clean. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| TomO | -- 04-30-2013 @ 7:28 AM |
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I have an engine stand like the one sold by Harbor Freight and an adapter plate to use the exhaust ports, purchased from Reds Headers. The adapter plate is aluminum and its biggest drawback is that you cannot mount the starter when the plate is installed. The plate can only be installed on the right side of the engine. Tom
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| Don Rogers | -- 05-01-2013 @ 4:50 AM |
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I've had good luck with an adapter made by Stumpy's Fabrication Works in Waterloo, IL. Its their model FFESA-S85 Adapter mounts on either side of engine. I was able to mount my oil pan, starter motor and heads with no problems. See photos.
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| Don Rogers | -- 05-01-2013 @ 4:52 AM |
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Here's another shot
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| Dave D | -- 05-08-2013 @ 10:47 PM |
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Flathead Jack makes a really nice adapter also. I love mine.
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| rodrelic | -- 12-16-2020 @ 1:36 PM |
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Made 1 stand out of 2 cheap junkers, very stable and no fear of damage
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| pauls39coupe | -- 12-16-2020 @ 3:04 PM |
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Made mine similar to rodrelic. It mounts on the exhaust ports on both sides. It is very stable, easy to work on all sides of the engine and from different angles when necessary. Be sure to make it tall enough and narrow enough to fit your cherry picker. You can make adapters for other engines also, which is handy if you work on sbc's or later Fords.
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