| 35BOBS | -- 04-22-2013 @ 5:15 PM |
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I have a 35 ford 2 dr. sedan, how do you remove the front grill to replace the radiator, I see there is a blind rivit on each side, do they have tobe ground down, and if so, what do I replace them with, if I use a bolt and nut it looks like it will interfere with the hood
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| JM | -- 04-23-2013 @ 3:21 AM |
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It's possible to remove/replace the radiator in a 35 Ford without removing the grille. You would need to remove some things on the front of the engine to provide space, such as, fan, generator, distributor and water pumps. This allows enough space to lean the top of the radiator back towards the engine and very carefully lift it out of the engine compartment. I'm not sure what rivet you think needs to be removed? On my original 35's there are no rivets holding the radiator in place, everything bolts in. JM This message was edited by JM on 4-23-13 @ 3:24 AM
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| flatheadfan | -- 04-23-2013 @ 7:10 AM |
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35Bobs- Gee, I don't know about pulling the radiator without removing the grill. First, as John indicated, there are a lot of things that need to be removed. Second, let me say, I have pulled several '35 radiators over the years and I never attempted to do it without removing the grill. With that in mind, the two problem areas I see in not removing the grill is the locating boss on the top of the radiator. The only way you really can get the radiator out from under it is to loosen the grille, lift it up and tilt it forward. The next potential problem is the radiator's "feet" or mounts. They will not allow the radiator to be pulled direct up and out. The radiator needs to be twisted on an angle due to the inner fender's curvature and then lifted out. To do this you need to remove one (possibly both), of the fender arm braces to allow the radiator to twist. Still, the twisting may still be compromised by the hood hold down brackets on the side of the radiator. Both of these problems are minimized with the grill out. There are probably several more problems but these items quickly come to mind. Regardless, of what method you do, cover everything around the grille and inner fenders edges with a double layer of masking tape unless, you plan on doing a lot of painting in the future. Oh yes, I also agree with John, they are no rivets that are in the general area that should pose a problem. Hope this helps. Tom This message was edited by flatheadfan on 4-23-13 @ 7:11 AM
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| JM | -- 04-23-2013 @ 12:40 PM |
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Tom, In the past I had always 'thought' the grille needed to come out first before taking the radiator out but the last time I removed the radiator on my fordor sedan I decided to try doing this with the grille completely bolted in place because of the huge PITA of removing all those grille to fender bolts with the radiator in the way. I did not need to loosen the grille at all to get the top disconnected from the radiator. I came up with a method of carefully lifting the top of the grille enough to allow the radiator to come out from under the grille. I don't recall needing to remove those fender brace support arms nor having any problems getting those bottom mounting flanges on the radiator to come up between the tapering in area of the inner fender panels, but then I did not bring those flanges straight up in the narrowest area. I don't recall having to twist the radiator in anyway to get it up and out of the engine compartment. As it turned out I still had to remove the grille for better access to the timing gear area to replace a stripped fiber press on gear. When I put everything back together I bolted the grille in place first. Much easier access to those mounting bolts w/o the radiator sitting there in the way. After the grille was in place, the radiator went back in just as it had been removed. The top of the grille was again very carefully lifted, and the top of the radiator went back into place under the grille. This was the later, small top tank radiator, so that could have been some advantage for maneuvering the radiator out and then back in. I may try this same method of removing the radiator on one of my earlier 35's with the larger top tank to see how it works. JM This message was edited by JM on 4-24-13 @ 12:20 PM
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