| DadsFord | -- 04-16-2013 @ 4:03 PM |
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Although the car was running last week, I could not start it today. Removed air cleaner, poured small amount of gas into carburetor. Car tried to start, but then sounded like the starter was still running, but not cranking engine. At first did not stop when steering wheel switch was turned off. Pushed dash board starter switch and it stopped. Talking with a mechanic friend he suggested it could be a stuck solenoid, stuck starter switch, or stuck bendix. Appears that gas is leaking from bottom of carburetor, which may explain why it would not start initially. Suggested problems/cures?? Thanks for your help. Taz
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| 40 Coupe | -- 04-16-2013 @ 4:44 PM |
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If you poured gas down the Carb and did not open the throttle plates the fuel sat on top of the plates and leaked out of the Carb through the throttle shaft. This could be why the bottom of the Carb was wet. I would suspect the push button on the dash as the source of the starting motor problem. The only thing the ignition switch on the steering column does is energize or de-energize the ignition coil and the oil and fuel gauge. You can try your starter motor circuit without the ignition switch on, but to start the car the ignition coil has to be energized (ON) as well.
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| DadsFord | -- 04-16-2013 @ 6:15 PM |
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I did not open throttle to pour gas in; worse yet I don't think I depressed accelerator when starting--just pulled out choke linkage. I've always been uneasy pouring in gas; is there the possibility of a misfire sending flames out the carb? I will check starter switch tomorrow. Taz
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| 40guy | -- 04-16-2013 @ 7:35 PM |
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I have been pouring gas in carbs for years to aid in starting, but that don't make it right. There is always the chance of a fire although I've never had that misfortune. You could try some starting fluid if you feel safer about it.{I'll still use gas}. As for the solenoid; they can stick at anytime and unstick at any time. Next time it does that, tap the top of the solenoid and that will usually unstick it.
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-16-2013 @ 8:51 PM |
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You can use a bottle or can with a dribble spout better than just pouring gas in. Do it from the passenger side while depressing the button on the bottom of the solenoid. If the starter continues to run on, you're right there to tap the solenoid if that is the cause. You just need to remember to have the ignition switch on when you do this, and off when you stop. If the car ran well last week, it should run now, and has simply evaporated the gas out of the system. A dribble to get it started should pull gas to keep it running. Don't use ethanol. Use only regular gas with no alcohol content. A few ounces of Marvel Mistery Oil with a fill up is a good preventative for issues with alcohol content in gasoline, something that's hard to get away from these days. Alan
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| supereal | -- 04-16-2013 @ 9:14 PM |
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Unless you have a short to ground between the button and the solenoid, or the button is bad, the chances of the solenoid sticking are very low. It is more likely that the starter drive is the problem. If the spiral is oil and dirt covered, or rusty, it will not retract if engaged, or will not engage the ring gear. Pouring fuel or starting fluid down the carb is inviting disaster. The obvious is fire, but a backfire in the intake manifold will likely blow out the power valve in the carb. If you are unable to fix the problem, take it to someone who can before you make it worse.
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| DadsFord | -- 04-17-2013 @ 5:23 AM |
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Is the problem with ethanol content that it will cause gas tank leaks, or is there more. Seems like an earlier thread in this forum discussed leaking tanks. Taz
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| supereal | -- 04-17-2013 @ 6:30 AM |
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Ethanol presents two problems: it is a powerful solvent that loosens years of accumulated crud in the tank and system, and it is hygroscopic. This means it attracts moisture, causing rust in the tank and lines. Gas tanks were originally lined with a lead-tin coating called "tern". Over the years, it becomes thinner with breaches allowing pinhole leaks. Replacement of all rubber parts of the system, such as hoses and non-nitrile fuel pumps is required. Now, the government is authorizing the ethanol content to be increased from ten to fifteen percent. Vehicles older than 2001 have been shown to be subject to fuel system damage if this fuel is used.
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| joe b | -- 04-18-2013 @ 9:27 AM |
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Here is what I ran into last week concerning Ethanol. Here in Ohio, at least where I am, this is all we can buy. I went to start my '41 after winter storage and it would not fire. Poured a little gas in the carb and it lighted right off. I have an electric fuel pump and I let it run and tried a bit of gas again. Same thing. Removed the flex line between the fuel line on the firewall and the fuel pump. No gas. Crawled under and found that a fuel filter I had installed a few years ago was eaten up inside. Removed it and replaced fuel line gap. Now I got gas to the the end of the firewall fuel line. Reconnected and still would not start. Removed the flex line. One of the brass fittings came off due to the line crumbling. Could not pass a wire through the line. Replaced it with a new line from Robert Shewman and it fired right up and has been fine. Here is the kicker: the old fuel line was only 2 years old!!I am sure glad the government has shoved this fuel up our.....fuel lines.
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| supereal | -- 04-18-2013 @ 10:08 AM |
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We see a lot of that, Joe. The gas line in my '47 was so plugged with dirt and rust that we couldn't even get a wire thru it. I don't use gasohol, but the entire distribution system is now contaminated with it, even when the pump doesn't say so. We went thru this when the "new" low sulphur diesel fuel came out. We had vehicles lined up at the shop with fuel leaking everywhere. The new formula simply ate the old lines. Once the components of the fuel system are changed, the cars will usually run OK, but it can involve all portions, including the tank, lines, filters, pump, and carb.
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